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Post by william m on Oct 15, 2014 16:18:59 GMT
Hi all,
I want to blend in the bevel on my Windlass XIV. It is quite prominent so I am a little unsure as to how to proceed.
What is the best method for doing this? I have small diamond files, sandpaper, stones etc.
Cheers, William
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Post by ShooterMike on Oct 15, 2014 16:43:33 GMT
There are several methods folks around here use. I am partial to using an auto body sanding block with 400 grit paper. Make length wise strokes to gradually round the blade flat around to meet the edge. You just have to be careful not to dull the existing edge, so your strokes should go slightly away from the edge while traveling the length of the blade.
Or take a look at Tom's edge sharpening tutorial video. They are really good, and show a different method.
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Post by MOK on Oct 15, 2014 17:31:37 GMT
Yeah. If you don't have a slack belt sander, a cork or suitably firm rubber sanding block is probably the next best thing.
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Post by william m on Oct 15, 2014 20:56:50 GMT
Would you be able to link me to Tom's thread, I can't seem to find it!
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Mikeeman
Member
Small Business Operator
Posts: 2,904
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Post by Mikeeman on Oct 15, 2014 21:03:22 GMT
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Post by william m on Oct 15, 2014 21:10:44 GMT
Thank you!
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Oct 16, 2014 1:03:53 GMT
Consider also, put a strip of junk masking tape on the last MM of the edge just to make sure you dont hit it...
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Post by william m on Oct 17, 2014 7:32:39 GMT
Good point, I was thinking about doing this.
I wonder, has anybody bothered to blend in the bevel of the fuller on this sword, or is that something that will just look bad?
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Post by Jeffrey Ching on Oct 23, 2014 15:04:11 GMT
You can rework a fullen if you have something cylindrical to back up the sand paper. Make sure you mask the area that you want to alter though because once the first scratches are there, it's going to be difficult to see the bump. Also you will need an assortment of sand paper though to make it shiny again.
The last stages can be achieve by wrapping cotton around your cylinder and use some jewelers rouge.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 8, 2014 14:12:18 GMT
All good replies above. But to summarize what's been said....
If you use mechanical means, then you must make sure the machine has a soft pad behind the abrasive material, and you must have some experience using the machine. The machine will remove steel quickly so you have to be careful. Orbital sander, a 1x30 or 2x72 grinder with a padded platen, etc.
If by manual means, I think the rubber sanding block is a great idea. If you dont have one then use a mouse pad in-between your abrasive material and wooden block.
As for the abrasive material, I would start with a Scotch-brite, or the scrubby pad you use to clean pots. Or start with 800-1000 grit sand paper. I'm assuming you don't have to remove a lot of steel to blend the bevel to the flat of the blade.
I would not use the diamond files or stones you have because the abrasive material needs to bend to blend the bevel.
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Post by william m on Nov 10, 2014 13:43:04 GMT
Alrighty so I have been doing quite a bit of work on the sword so I think I will create a seperate thread to document this in the DIY section. For now with regards to the bevel I used a sanding drum on my dremel to flatten the bevels edge. This process removed a good amount of metal as the sword's steel is so soft. I should weigh it up once im done as I have probably shaved a few grams off the weight. After this I moved onto 120 grit sandpaper and have been blending it in. I think it looks pretty good so far and so once I am satisified I haven't put in any major scratches I will move up the grits and give it an albion-esq finish with the scotchbrite pad. I have damaged the razor sharp edge so I will give it some love once I have finished the polishing. Left hand side = original bevel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . right hand side = blended
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Post by JGonzalez on Nov 10, 2014 14:51:47 GMT
I am so looking forward to your DIY post! That looks amazing
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Post by william m on Nov 12, 2014 16:00:23 GMT
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