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Post by waltznjack on Aug 12, 2008 20:31:58 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2008 2:19:32 GMT
I just bought an Accusharp* to give it a try. It brings back a dull edge quickly, and even allowed an easy fix for a couple of small nicks; but I had to turn to my stones to get that scary sharp edge back (which is not really necessary for most cutting jobs). I would say it's a good addition to the tool box for small working tool blades. ;D EDIT: It does create an undesirable secondary bevel on the larger blades, which had to be fixed with the stones... so maybe not the best for swords. *Also, if you want something like the Accusharp for keeping small knives and scissors sharpened - Smith's makes a Jiff-V-Sharp that is much like the Accusharp, but does scissors and can be found for under $5.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2008 7:23:57 GMT
i looked around and alot of my questions have been answered thank you yet i have one last question
whats best for cleaning off a sword, not really trying to polish it just clean the blade. a spot or two, some residue from a pine tree and what i think is a tiny bit of dry blood from a fast unsheathing gone wrong. stuff like that. sorry if this question was answered and i missed it.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2008 13:28:02 GMT
i looked around and alot of my questions have been answered thank you yet i have one last question whats best for cleaning off a sword, not really trying to polish it just clean the blade. a spot or two, some residue from a pine tree and what i think is a tiny bit of dry blood from a fast unsheathing gone wrong. stuff like that. sorry if this question was answered and i missed it. For Pine gum WD40 is your friend. It will cut right through the pine gum. It is also great for taking off the residue from cutting tatami and will also do in a pinch for a temporary protection against that nasty stuff called rust.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2008 0:38:57 GMT
thank you Wizzbang . ^^
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 15, 2008 4:34:49 GMT
since it really belongs here, here is a link to my sharpening tutorial video. certainly not the only way to do it, but it's how I do it and I've always had good results.
/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=7799
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2008 0:33:40 GMT
Anyone who has any tips about that last extreme polish that comes after wet sanding and autosol?
I believe I have come as far as that takes me on my katana, the last hour with autosol wasn't possible to notice at all! But still it's nowhere near the sick mirror finish I'm after...
There are no grind marks left, it's just blurry or what I should say...
I'm ready to spend a lot of hours on it, but what should I do? And most important, am I doing wrong or is this really the limit?
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 18, 2008 1:07:00 GMT
mmm hard to say for sure without seeing it in person and polish quality is so hard to photograph. see if this post by Cris Anderson helps: /index.cgi?board=japaneseswords&action=display&thread=7825&page=1#122164
this video on stopping may help (I know stropping is sharpening).
I'm trying to find things that can be helpful instead of saying "get hazuya stones" or talking about needle burnishing like is done on nihonto shinogi ji. I think stropping with leather and jeweler's rouge should polish it too. I bet if you made length-wise strokes instead of perpendicular that would help. in the end I thid Cris' advise in the above link is the best answer. you probably don't want to back up that much; I understand.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2009 23:52:45 GMT
Is a razor sharp edge necessary for consistent cutting success on the targets we use (bottles, beach mats and unlucky vegetation?) Some sword videos show blunt swords cutting these targets just fine. My swords are "regular" sharp (you would have to TRY to draw blood from your thumb on the edge) and they do not cut very well (but the do cut-just not everything all the time). I'm trying to figure out if it is my form or the edge on my sword.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jan 8, 2009 11:53:38 GMT
could be both. I can't say anything about your form as I haven't seen you cut.
in a nutshell edge sharpness is a choice but a sharper edge sure cuts easier. I've seen cuts on tatami with a blunt sword that looked like it was razor sharp. with good form many things are possible. a good sharp edge helps a lot though. ultimately we are cutting soft targets for which sharp edges are appropriate. I doubt even Shooter Mike could cut an empty soda bottle with a sword that isn't at least fairly sharp, but there's no need to cut empties.
it's all up to you.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jan 15, 2009 13:38:02 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2009 0:49:49 GMT
That Brenno is an excellent set of videos. Great find!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 23:56:28 GMT
Nevermind this post...move along, nothing to see.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2009 15:09:25 GMT
Tom (Ian) Once again, AWESOME info! +1 Karma I think I figured out how to exalt...lol
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2009 14:22:53 GMT
Here's a question that I think I saw somewhere else once before- I raise it here because of the underlying issue- heating the blade. Will excess heat from grinding/filing/sanding cause any troubles with the temper of a blade? I know I read it in another post somewhere that it does, or it could...anyone?
I guess my question is- how does one know whether or not the temper is at risk, or any other aspect of the sword?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2009 6:59:07 GMT
Anyone acquainted with this "contraction" a variation on the praised Lansky/ Gatco theme I know ... not cheap but certainly interesting concept ! www.wickededgeusa.com/
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Post by shadowhowler on Mar 27, 2009 7:39:56 GMT
Anyone acquainted with this "contraction" a variation on the praised Lansky/ Gatco theme I know ... not cheap but certainly interesting concept ! www.wickededgeusa.com/ That thing looks very interesting and effective... Too bad it costs so damn much.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 0:04:47 GMT
anybody here used the samurai shrak to sharpen their katana blades?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 4:24:43 GMT
is the samurai shark just the same as accusharp (two carbide pieces grinding at a fixed angle) or can the samurai's angle be adjusted ?
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Apr 8, 2009 5:00:38 GMT
I'm consolidating my sharpening info into one easily linkable place (here). first my video on hand sharpening/polishing. I still do this mostly inbetween the 1200 belt sanding and stropping to remove unsightly belt marks and help refine the polish and edge. If I started with the belt sander I only use the 1000 - 2000 grit paper; 1000 between the 500 and 1200 grit belts, and again with the 2000 paper between the 1200 and leather belts. I also have begun to clamp down the blade and move the paper over the secured blade. less chances of accidentally taking off a finger and works the same way with the same motions. here's a link to where to buy the belt sander I use. it works really well: www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2485Use these belts: www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43072&p=48040 you can do everything up to the leather belt with the belt series: D. Aluminum Oxide Grinding Belts the 500 and 1200 grits are all you really need unless you are sharpening blunt swords or removing heavy secondary bevels I also like the A. 15ยต (Micron) Silicon Carbide Sharpening Belts as an in-between for the 500 and 1200 (the 500 grits are marked 20 micron and the 1200 are marked 9 micron putting the 15 micron between them in grit). at the bottom of that page is: E. Leather Honing Belts and a link labled "ACC" which brings you to the page that has the honing compound. here: www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32984&cat=1,43072 here's how to do it: this machine works great for CONVEX edges such as lenticular or appleseed shaped edges but is not suitable for hollow ground blades; for these you need a fancier machine with the right kind of wheel. for flat ground blades there is a flat belt-guide that comes with the machine.
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