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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2007 1:33:37 GMT
Just doing my best to torment...er, I mean, help out...a fellow sword lover. ;D
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Post by ShooterMike on Feb 7, 2007 3:49:33 GMT
personally I foun both the patton sabre AND the indian sabre (from AC/MRL) to be incredibly unnappealing designs. Looked to me like they took a shoddy rapier blade and melted some child's plastic swords down to make an ugly green hilt. The scabbard was clunky and, frankly, very ugly. I don't like plastic... I'm afraid I have to agree with Rammstein on this one. I've done a lot of reading on sabers, about the late 1700s through early 1800s arguments of cut vs. thrust for cavalry, and a bunch of other stuff. I've thoroughly reviewed the military manuals on the "Patton Sword" and similar designs. I understand why they were designed as they are. But dog-gone-it, they are just UGLY!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2007 4:07:02 GMT
Well, I like them... ;D
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Post by ShooterMike on Feb 7, 2007 16:01:56 GMT
OK, on second thought, I think the grip is ugly because of the big swell at the rear. I know it's purpose-designed to make this thrusting saber point like a pistol. But I still think its unattractive.
I like the guard a lot. It gives good hand protection and I think it looks pretty cool. I don't care for the blade because you can't cut with it at all. I'm not thrilled with thrust-only sabers because I don't have any targets for thrusting that are any fun.
I would like to have a saber assembled with this guard and a slightly modified version of the grip. It would be fitted to a 32-34 inch blade like the one on my German Saxon saber pictured above. The blade is slightly curved and the false edge is sharpened for about the first 8-10 inches. It's pretty stiff so it thrusts reasonably well and the slight curve helps it cut well.
Maybe a somewhat costly way to get that type of saber would be to find an 1860 light cavalry saber blade, and marry it to the slightly modified hilt from an Indian cavalry saber.
But I don't currently want this kind of saber enough to pay for two swords. Thoughts anyone?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2007 2:15:05 GMT
Strange news on the saber front: I got my 1796 yesterday. Hands practically trembling with excitement, I opened the box. What did I find waiting inside? I not really sure... It is a 1796, no question, but the hilt is...weird. Instead of the flush-peened tang, this one has a sort of steel "button" on the end of the grip through which the tang runs. Also, the pin that goes through the steel tabs that fold down on either side of the grip is absent. There isn't even a hole to accomodate such a pin. I can't tell whether the button is threaded onto the tang, or the tang is peened over it, and, since there's a strong possibility that i'll be returning the sword, I didn't want to clamp my vise grips over it and give it a try. I contacted the store I ordered it from and the guy was surprised to hear this, too. He's going to take a look at a few others he has in stock and see if they're the same. My greatest fear is that Cold Steel may have switched it's saber production over to Windlass (as it has with some of its other Indian made swords), and that Windlass has replaced the old peened and pinned hilt with a tang nut version. If this turns out to be the case, it will truly suck. My only hope will be to find a used one in good condition... I hope to hear back from the guy Monday, so I'll update then. Here's a pic of the hilt in all its hideousness...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2007 2:24:19 GMT
Remember, a threaded pommel nut is not actually a structural weakness, when it's done right with good materials in it. Russian military swords of the same period as that one used that very process, with the idea that it's easy to take apart and clean, and also to tighten if it loosens up.
It's like Toyota Landcruisers vs. Jeeps, the Toyotas are bolted vs. the Jeeps which are welded. The bolted Toyotas are actually more durable and stronger.
Anyway, in the words of George Silver(a man ahead of his time) NO fight is perfect without BOTH thrust AND cut. 'Tis why I don't go for either really curved sabers or really pointy rapiers.
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Post by ShooterMike on Feb 10, 2007 4:10:37 GMT
Kriegschwert,
I've had my Cold Steel 1796 LCS for about 6-8 months and it's exactly like yours. I am pretty sure it's at least a year old. I haven't tried to disassemble it. But so far, it's held up to the small amount of abuse I've given it. The pin in the grip tabs has (I believe) always been missing on these Cold Steel reproductions. I actually like it better without them, as compared to my Austrian original. The pins make the grip very uncomfortable.
Anyway, I think it will turn out to be quite durable and usable, though just a bit unauthentic.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2007 6:30:41 GMT
Adam, that's true. After all, Atrims, some of the toughest swords ever made, use a threaded tang. I was more concerned with hilt tightness. Though my Atrim has never come loose during use, a couple of Windlasses have. We shall see. Though, according to Mike, it doesn't seem to be a problem. Mike, thanks for the info. I feel a little better knowing I'm not alone. ;D I was just freaked out when I saw it. I've been basing my expectations on pics like these: www.888knivesrus.com/product/CS88S which clearly show a somewhat different animal. One aspect that actually seems better on the version I received is that the blade is only sharpened about halfway back from the point (the pictures I linked to show a blade sharpened all the way along the edge. The example I have is more historical, as sabers like this were typically only sharpened 1/3 to 1/2 of the way from the tip, so the part of the blade closer to the hilt could be used for blocking (I'm sure you knew this already ). Well, I'm gonna think it over this weekend.
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Post by ShooterMike on Feb 10, 2007 15:28:01 GMT
Kriegschwert,
If it will help your decision, I am going to be at my tire pell today. I will take along my CS 1796 and apply it vigorously to the tires for about 500 strokes to see if the hilt loosens any. Then I'll cut a few pieces of rope to see how the edge holds up.
I will post feedback tonight or tomorrow.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2007 20:19:04 GMT
Thanks, Mike. I look forward to reading the results.
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Post by ShooterMike on Feb 11, 2007 2:20:35 GMT
Hey Kriegschwert,
Well...I thoroughly tested the hilt components of my Cold Steel 1796 Light Cavalry Saber. I whacked the tire pell at all angles. I made impact all along the blade, mostly from the middle where the edge starts until about 8 inches from the tip. Then I concentrated on some tip cuts on small green cedar limbs. Then I worked over my pine 2x2 "opponent's blade" with the unsharpened forte. Then I whacked the pell at an angle to cause maximum vibration through the blade. I lost count of the strokes at about 200, as I was starting to get tired. But I continued for about another 15-20 minutes.
I am having to stop typing after every sentence or so because my forearms are cramping. I think I overdid it a bit, actually wailing away until my arm gave out. I wanted to do you a good test. ;D
The result is that my particular CS 1796 LCS is every bit as tight as the day I took it out of the box. And I'm pretty darned impressed. Oh, and the pin through the metal flap on the sides of the grip is there, it's just polished flush. Mine finally discolored enough to be noticed. But it hasn't loosened any.
Hope that helps your decision making process.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2007 2:43:24 GMT
Many thanks, Mike. I really appreciate you doing all that pell work for my benefit. Keep that up and you'll soon have forarms like Popeye. ;D I'm glad to hear that the sword held up. I DID, by the way, finally attempt to turn the button on the tang (with a nice thick piece of rubber and vise-grips) and it didn't budge, so I think it IS actually peened. It's looking more and more like I'll keep the sword, though I'm still gonna wait until Monday to see what the guy I bought it from says, just in case. Thanks agian, Mike. You rock!
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Post by rammstein on Feb 11, 2007 3:28:09 GMT
heh...speaking of forarms growth during the middle ages, my left arm is a few inches larger in circumference than my right one. Anyone know if swordsmen would be just as lopsided as, say, a longbowman?
Just a thought.
Anyway, more karma to shootermike for his tests for kriegschwerts (and other forumites as well) benifits!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2007 5:37:35 GMT
heh...speaking of forarms growth during the middle ages, my left arm is a few inches larger in circumference than my right one. Anyone know if swordsmen would be just as lopsided as, say, a longbowman? ! That's actually an interesting subject in its own right. I'm sure there would have been a difference in musculature on a swordsman's "strong" side, in the arm and shoulder areas, in particular. Hey! I just realized I've become a Swashbuckler! Well, I guess I'd better be off to start buckling all those darn swashes... ;D
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2007 3:03:52 GMT
heh...speaking of forarms growth during the middle ages, my left arm is a few inches larger in circumference than my right one. Anyone know if swordsmen would be just as lopsided as, say, a longbowman? Just a thought. Anyway, more karma to shootermike for his tests for kriegschwerts (and other forumites as well) benifits! You bring up a very interesting subject Rammstein. The skelletons from the Maryrose are famous for the one shoulder being much larger and the tendons in the opposite side of the upperback being shorter. These man trained to shoots heavy bows from their youth had effectively become deformed. Now before you panic and say that you will never shoot a bow, let me say that the problem here is not that heavy tension. It is that that tension is not being applied to both sides of the body evenly so that symetry and balance can be maintained. In order to avoid such problems a person should learn to shoot with both arms and do so evenly. The problem is that most people are dominant in one eye or the other and that is the arm they will shoot with to be most accurate. Luckily I am not dominant in neither eye. Still even people who are, I do believe that they can train to focus with their other eye too. If shooting offhanded is simply imposible for them they should definelty find some other means to train the opposite side of their body. Bone is living tissue and it responds to training just like the muscles do. This is a good thing, strong bones are better then weak ones. Back when I was in college my friend's sister was working for a bone doctor. One day when we went to by to see her he introduced himself and told us that he had heard that me and my friend where into powerlifting. He asked if he could x-ray our legs for his own personal research. The x-ray showed how the ends of our bones in our knees had been built up and squared off to support the weight from heavy squating. Most less active peole have more rounded bones in the knee joint. The human body is pretty amazing in how it adapts but you have to be sure to keep all things even and balanced. Also important is to do supplmental excercises that work the muscle though its whole range of motion. This will prevent shortening of the tendons as in the case of the upper back muscles of the Maryrose archers.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2007 1:40:25 GMT
Interesting you all should mention that, as when I was shooting archery more often a couple years back, I began shooting ambidexterously for the very purpose of evening everything out. I do many exercises and drills with longsword on both sides now to keep my arms even as well.
Also, if you're interested in strengthening the forearms... get a 'dynabee'. If you know what this is you'll understand.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2007 22:11:43 GMT
I have found that strengthening forarms is not that much of a problem for most people. Most pulling excesices involve gripping. You can through in some wrist curls for added measure. The real problem is strengthing fingers because the fingers have mostly tendon and ligament. Their is no muscle in the fingers to grow and strengthen, so you can hand from your fingers in a door way all day and it will have a minimum effect. Finger excercises tend to work the forearm too because that is where the muscles are that are pulling. This can be very fustrating, I find that my fingers are the fist to get tired when shooting heavy bows. Only thing to do is get archery gloves or make some kind of finger protection to spread the stress out on the fingers doing the pulling.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2007 3:48:19 GMT
There may still be hope on the saber front. I remembered seeing one for sale on a blackpowder gun website I used to visit frequently, so I checked back and they still have them for sale. I just sent them an email asking whether they still used the historical hilt assembly on the ones they sell and am currently awaiting a response (and keeping my fingers tightly crossed). Check out the US price, too! Pray for me, fellas! ;D loyalistarms.freeservers.com/calvarysaberseuropean.html Of course, I'll let you know what I find out. Btw, I'm pretty sure the ones they sell come unsharpened, but I'm getting better at sharpening all the time so...pffft, for their price, I'm willing to do a little edge work...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2007 16:58:51 GMT
WooHoo! I just received an in-depth reply from Loyalist, and the 1796 they sell has the historically accurate hilt. Unfortunately, they're out of stock for 6-8 weeks, but it looks like I will finally have my saber when the next batch comes in!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2007 19:06:57 GMT
Hey Kriegschwert, I too am a sabre lover, having handled them and owned them, original and repro off and on for near 40 years. But the ones I love and grew up with are the good old American Civil War sabres; the U.S. 1840 Hvy Cav Sabre and the 1860 Lt Cav Sabre. Growing up I knew several people who had their great or great great granddad's sabre that he had used in that war (still know one). I recently ordered one from Cold Steel and one from Ames Sword Company. Check out my review of the Cold Steel one on this website. I love it and can't wait until I get it back.
Anyway, over on Sword Forum International they have some articles on various swords. There is an article on the development of that British 1796 Lt Cav sabre and by whom (some British dude for the British Cavalry). At least I think that was where I saw it. And yes, it was designed as a slicer and used in the Napoleonic wars. Whereas, according to the article, the French tactics called for the thrust as the first and foremost thing to be used and the cut secondary, the British tactics and their 1796 Sabre were designed from the beginning as a cutting weapon, the thrust being secondary. But in that article it quotes several eye witness accounts where it talks of the devestating wounds that sword gives/gave, severed limbs, etc., and describing them. In one famous case a French officer rode up and thrust a mortal thrust through a British enlisted man through the body. In his last act in life the British trooper raised up in his stirrips to his full height, on tip toe so to speak, and came down with a verticle cut that splt the French officer's brass helmet in half and sank the blade to the man's teeth. Both then fell over dead. If you can't find the article let me know (at k98@elmore.rr.com ) and I will send it to you. I copied it onto my computer for future reference and study. I also have the "Sabre Drill" from Cooke's Cavalry Tactics from 1862 if you are interested. Take care, FB
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