|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 14:21:54 GMT
Well, they only offer a leather sheath anyway. I doubt they would describe their heat treat in close detail. I don't know.
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 20, 2013 14:47:55 GMT
ive never heard anything bad about them, and 1095 isnt hard to heat treat, i do it in a coffee can in my back yard and all my blades are fine.
|
|
|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 14:52:57 GMT
You do most of your work with 5160 don't you saito? I'd like to have you make it, but you're full up. I've e-mailed Chris Palmer about shortening the blade. We'll see how that goes.
|
|
|
Post by GUEST on Apr 20, 2013 14:55:32 GMT
Do I ever feel stupid I was thinking of the Los Vegas Fallout Gladius all this time. My pervious post of it being a copy of the CS LTC were way off, not even close to a kurki style knife. This design in various forums is made by a lot of people.
|
|
|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 15:00:01 GMT
Alright then. So it's been copied so many times that nobody knows who came up with it?
|
|
|
Post by lrb on Apr 20, 2013 15:38:13 GMT
I've heard that many times before. If you're going to sell knives, your customer deserves better than that. Do a little research on heat treat requirements for that steel. I can guarantee that 1080/84 with a proper HT will out perform your 1095, and the HT for 1080/84 is not near as demanding.
|
|
|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 15:41:45 GMT
Are you a knife maker lrb? Could you make it?
|
|
Talon
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
|
Post by Talon on Apr 20, 2013 18:01:50 GMT
Just because Saito uses a coffe can to quench doesn't mean he is doing a bad heat treat. As long as he normalizes correctly,gets it in the quench fast enough after reaching non magnetic and letting it soak for a bit,then tempers correctly he's good to go.As long as his quench container is large enough so he gets a good quench with no hot spots he should be fine.I dont see any problem with his container if it's of a good size.
|
|
|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 18:24:55 GMT
Let's not get into that stuff.
|
|
|
Post by lrb on Apr 20, 2013 18:51:37 GMT
It isn't the speed of getting to the quench that counts. It is the speed of the quench to cool the steel that is important. 1095 is extremely quench sensitive. Brine is fast enough, but you may lose the blade. Parks #50 oil is good, and canola oil comes in as a good third.
|
|
Talon
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
|
Post by Talon on Apr 20, 2013 19:16:05 GMT
Well i've no idea what oil he may use,i was just referring to the container.1095 isn't my preferred steel,anyway on with the show
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 20, 2013 20:54:58 GMT
Duplicate Post deleted.
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 20, 2013 20:56:43 GMT
I heat my blades to non magnetic, quench in oil, then give them a double temper cycle in the oven, the end result is a nice hard blade that flexes well and snaps back to true.
to answer your question Onimusha, i do most of my work with 1095, I reserve the 5160 for bigger blades like zombie cleavers and 2 handed swords where thicker bar stock is needed. im also in the process of experimenting with 1084, but thus far the 1095 has served me very well. i really like it
|
|
|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 21:29:49 GMT
This conversation reminds me of a guy that got here shortly after I did. He kept going on about how our swords were nothing compared to his nihonto. If you're an equipment snob, you're in the wrong place here. This forum is all about low budget.
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 20, 2013 21:35:41 GMT
im making a sword for a guy who has two nihonto antiques, one of which is in very good condition, his opinion was that other than aesthetics and the historical value there was little difference from his nihonto and a modern day production sword except that his nihonto was a bit beefier of a blade.
|
|
|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 21:55:27 GMT
The katana was made the way it was to make the most out of crappy materials.
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 20, 2013 21:57:53 GMT
thats what i try to tell these fanboy weaboos who always seem to turn up on youtube and other forums :lol:
|
|
|
Post by lrb on Apr 20, 2013 22:01:12 GMT
I never mentioned your coffee can. I assumed it was a make shift forge. They work to a degree, and its good to hear you are using canola. It sounds as though you are doing a decent enough HT, but I think you will like the 1084 even better. Medieval smiths had pretty good forges, and they worked with lower carbon steels for the most part. When carbon content exceeds that of 1084, it requires a tad more attention to temps and quenches. Just to note, 1084 is best quenched at around 1500°. Non-magnetic is 1414°. So you will need about two shades of red above non-magnetic. Canola, or most any of the vege oils will quench it well. As another note, 1095 should not be taken much over 1475° for quench, as it begins to form coarse carbides as it enters higher temps, along with grain growth, but for good solution, it needs a tad more than non-magnetic, and a soak at temp to fully solutionize. 1084 is good with maybe 2 to 5 minutes soak time. Hell, it'll work OK anyway with a fully even heat.
|
|
|
Post by Onimusha on Apr 20, 2013 22:03:28 GMT
That's not to say that they didn't make some scary tough and Sharp blades, but they made a lot of junk too, especially in the warring states period. In case any fanboys read this, I want to say that no sword can cut through a car. Even if the blade was capable, no human is strong enough.
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 21, 2013 1:23:23 GMT
anyone who claims their sword will cut through a car PM me...show me video proof and ill make you a free sword :lol:
|
|