Gen 2 Brookhart Line Teutonic Sword
Nov 1, 2012 21:31:46 GMT
Post by StevenJ on Nov 1, 2012 21:31:46 GMT
www.imperialcoinc.com/Shared/IP-601.html
I bought this new wonderful type XIIIA sword straight from Legacy Arms. It arrived today no issues. I had a DSA 1339 14th century sword but was getting a bit tired of it, sold it and bought this particular piece instead. I had owned three Gen 2 pieces in the past. A Viking Seax, Lucerne, and 12th Century Sword. The Lucerne was good, didn't care for the blocky hilt sold it. It was well sharpened and well tapered though, would buy another one possibly if they still made them. Gen 2 12th century sword was too blocky the entire hilt. The wooden grip was wider than the pommel and the metal rings looked really odd and created a strange grip profile, even when covered with leather. It didn't handle that well from the forge and the edges weren't that sharp. I ended up repofiling the blade and sold it on ebay for a lowly $50. The Seax Viking Knife serves me well as a brush cleaner and general knife. When I saw the Brookhart collection posted under the Manufacturers forum they seemed to fix all the complaints I had about the Gen 2 12th century and was made the new sword a bit longer at 44 9/16ths inches over all length. So is it better? Well let's find out.
Here are two shots of the sword next to my Del Tin 5143 type XIIIA. The Del Tin does noticeably handle better despite being longer and weighing more. However to be fair it is a much pricer sword and did not include a wood cored scabbard. I also regripped the hilt which substantially improved handling. The same and more will eventually be done to the Gen 2.
And now the sword by it self.
As can clearly be shown in this picture the sword doesn't quite meet up all the way with the throat of the scabbard. It's about a milimeter or so off.
In hand
The blade arrived to me wrapped in news paper. All the metal parts, even on the scabbard too, had a thick grease to prevent rusting. Took half an hour to unpack and get rid of the grease. I did hammer down the peen and sand it down slightly to make it look more even. Other than that I have not touched the sword. The edge is not that sharp. I did get a chance to cut a half gallon milk jug, neglected to record sorry :shock: , and it did power it's way through it so even though it's not really all that sharp it can still cut from the factory milk jugs. Not sure about bottles of water, I'd think those would go flying as the edges just aren't that sharp really. The blade does have a very heavy point of balance. I believe Legacy Arm's site when it said 6 1/2 inches from the hilt and it feels like it. Below I did include a dry handling video that includes a flex test proving that the blade can return to true once flexed as well as a first and third person handling.
For $279 before shipping this sword is pretty good. Think of it like a heavy duty VA practical longsword. Yes the diamond cross section is wrong on the last third of the blade but hey I got it for less than $300 with shipping with a wooden core scabbard. I think you'll all be pleased to know that Gen 2 leather still well sucks lol! But the blade and hilt furniture are nice and for once, as it seems to be with the other new Legacy Arm blades, the hilt isn't super blocky and actually looks pleasant to the eyes. The Grip has enough room for my smaller hands to be on them.
I grip the rear of it partially with the pommel, I'd say about 1/3 of my off hand rests on the pommel. Recovery times are a bit slow as you can see one handed but still it handles well. Over all I'm happy with it, I do think the cross guard could have used more thinning out though as it doesn't taper as much as I'd like. Certainly not as gracefully as the Del Tin pictured with it in the first two photos but I have seen a lot worse though. Like the old Gen 2 12th century cross guards for example, it thankfully is no where near that clunky. If you are looking for a type XIIIa bastard sword on a budget besides the Savoy this could be a good choice even when the the Tinker GSOW is considered but that's a much longer blade though. Hilt is extremely solid, no rattles, the slot on the cross guard for the blade is nearly perfect. Fuller is mostly straight and doesn't seem to be pounded out by a drunkard, unlike some other forges who shall not be named :roll: .
I bought this new wonderful type XIIIA sword straight from Legacy Arms. It arrived today no issues. I had a DSA 1339 14th century sword but was getting a bit tired of it, sold it and bought this particular piece instead. I had owned three Gen 2 pieces in the past. A Viking Seax, Lucerne, and 12th Century Sword. The Lucerne was good, didn't care for the blocky hilt sold it. It was well sharpened and well tapered though, would buy another one possibly if they still made them. Gen 2 12th century sword was too blocky the entire hilt. The wooden grip was wider than the pommel and the metal rings looked really odd and created a strange grip profile, even when covered with leather. It didn't handle that well from the forge and the edges weren't that sharp. I ended up repofiling the blade and sold it on ebay for a lowly $50. The Seax Viking Knife serves me well as a brush cleaner and general knife. When I saw the Brookhart collection posted under the Manufacturers forum they seemed to fix all the complaints I had about the Gen 2 12th century and was made the new sword a bit longer at 44 9/16ths inches over all length. So is it better? Well let's find out.
Here are two shots of the sword next to my Del Tin 5143 type XIIIA. The Del Tin does noticeably handle better despite being longer and weighing more. However to be fair it is a much pricer sword and did not include a wood cored scabbard. I also regripped the hilt which substantially improved handling. The same and more will eventually be done to the Gen 2.
And now the sword by it self.
As can clearly be shown in this picture the sword doesn't quite meet up all the way with the throat of the scabbard. It's about a milimeter or so off.
In hand
The blade arrived to me wrapped in news paper. All the metal parts, even on the scabbard too, had a thick grease to prevent rusting. Took half an hour to unpack and get rid of the grease. I did hammer down the peen and sand it down slightly to make it look more even. Other than that I have not touched the sword. The edge is not that sharp. I did get a chance to cut a half gallon milk jug, neglected to record sorry :shock: , and it did power it's way through it so even though it's not really all that sharp it can still cut from the factory milk jugs. Not sure about bottles of water, I'd think those would go flying as the edges just aren't that sharp really. The blade does have a very heavy point of balance. I believe Legacy Arm's site when it said 6 1/2 inches from the hilt and it feels like it. Below I did include a dry handling video that includes a flex test proving that the blade can return to true once flexed as well as a first and third person handling.
For $279 before shipping this sword is pretty good. Think of it like a heavy duty VA practical longsword. Yes the diamond cross section is wrong on the last third of the blade but hey I got it for less than $300 with shipping with a wooden core scabbard. I think you'll all be pleased to know that Gen 2 leather still well sucks lol! But the blade and hilt furniture are nice and for once, as it seems to be with the other new Legacy Arm blades, the hilt isn't super blocky and actually looks pleasant to the eyes. The Grip has enough room for my smaller hands to be on them.
I grip the rear of it partially with the pommel, I'd say about 1/3 of my off hand rests on the pommel. Recovery times are a bit slow as you can see one handed but still it handles well. Over all I'm happy with it, I do think the cross guard could have used more thinning out though as it doesn't taper as much as I'd like. Certainly not as gracefully as the Del Tin pictured with it in the first two photos but I have seen a lot worse though. Like the old Gen 2 12th century cross guards for example, it thankfully is no where near that clunky. If you are looking for a type XIIIa bastard sword on a budget besides the Savoy this could be a good choice even when the the Tinker GSOW is considered but that's a much longer blade though. Hilt is extremely solid, no rattles, the slot on the cross guard for the blade is nearly perfect. Fuller is mostly straight and doesn't seem to be pounded out by a drunkard, unlike some other forges who shall not be named :roll: .