Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 0:52:13 GMT
Hey there guys. New to the forums, and looking for my first sword. I know my price range is probably quite low, but I want a great handling and sturdy medieval sword. I'd prefer a viking blade, however to find a decent one in this price range seems a challenge.
This basically leaves me open to any medieval sword. If it IS viking, I'd prefer it be as authentic or as easily to mod to be authentic as possible. Outside of that I just want a lighter, well handling sword that will be as sturdy if not sturdier than the original versions. I tend to be a fan of shorter swords of an arming nature, simple and effective.
I've browsed all of Kult of Athena, and haven't found many swords that stick out thoug hthat may be because I don't know how they handle. Thanks guys.
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Post by aaronfranzen on Jun 24, 2012 1:00:20 GMT
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 1:04:14 GMT
I see. I had look at the Gen 2 and then just make a new sheath and replace the sued with real leather, but I've also head good things about the Hanwei. Was upset the price went up and it made me want to stay away from it.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Jun 24, 2012 1:10:12 GMT
Best question here- do you want it now, or is a few months wait time ok?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 1:18:42 GMT
Really it was going to be my anniversary present from my girlfriend that she'd order this week, though I could always get her to go for something else and wait.
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Post by ineffableone on Jun 24, 2012 2:40:43 GMT
don't forget the classifieds section here, you can often pick up blades that are great for less than retail costs due to being slightly used, it might be a way to get a blade that would normally cost over your $300 range but due to being used can come in at your $300 range *edit to add For example a VA Practical Longsword for $175 forum.sword-buyers-guide.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9123 at Kult of Athena the same sword goes for $240. The classifieds are a great place to check around if your planning to buy, especially if your looking for something $300 or less.
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Post by mcapanelli on Jun 24, 2012 12:57:56 GMT
I'd recommend either an H/T viking which is right in your period or an H/T Norman with is just slightly out. You can't go wrong at your price point with either one. H/T 9th Century SwordH/T Norman Sword
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 14:30:17 GMT
Can you tell me anything about these swords? Again my main worries are strength and balance.
Also would Darksword be a better bet?
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Post by mcapanelli on Jun 24, 2012 15:11:14 GMT
There very well made swords that are as true to their type as your going to get in your price point. As for Darksword, well I'm most likely not the best person to ask about that. I will tell you this though. Instead of being swayed by marketing or listening to the opinions of other HEMA people or collectors, why not just do your homework. Research what a sword of the period your interested in should feel like, look like, and be made out of. Use reputable, peer reviewed research for your primary sources, not sites like this. There's too much opinion colored by too much ego and pride. Not just here but anywhere where human opinions involved.
After you do some research you should developed a criteria for your purchase. Do you want something that's as close to historical as possible? Do you want a great performing and reliable backyard cutter? Do you want something that can go through a car door? Each one of those choices will have god and bad things tied to it. You have to decide for yourself which of those negatives you can live with. Want historical? Don't expect your sword type X sword to be neutrally biased and float in your hands. Want a focus on cutting performance? Don't expect it to be blade biased or as true to type as average historical example. Want it to go through car door and survive? Expect it to handle like a sharpened crow bar and be too heavy for it's type.
Lastly, try and handle as many sword as you can. If you can make an SBG meet up than do it. You'll get to handle a great cross section of the current production and custom industry. Places like Kult of Athena will be happy to let you handle swords they have on hand and explain what you'll be getting for your money. Most of all YOU should know what to expect for the price point your at. If you've done your homework you'll make an informed decision and generally be happy with your purchase. I can't say that over time you won't outgrow it but until then you'll rest assure that you got the best "bang for your buck" value sword that met your criteria as best it could.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 15:43:44 GMT
Thanks a lot. Basically what I want is a sword that is strong enough to do it's intended purpose. Not chop trees, or go through car doors, just be reliable on terms with what the original design it follows was intended to do. Materials don't matter as much to me as the feel and proportions as well as being peened. The Hanwei viking looks kind of new-agey which si my beef with it. If swords at the time did look that uniform, I'd be happier.
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Post by mcapanelli on Jun 24, 2012 16:12:26 GMT
I'd get it for the blade, use it a bit, then when you have some money saved up send it out to get the grip replaced with some sort of horn or other period correct organic material. As for authenticity, well check this out........ That's pretty damn authentic, it's also like $4000. Point is you get what you pay for and authentic requires a ton of research and a very high level of skill which is reflected in the price, as it should be. When you buy something at a low price point as you are there will always be trade-off's you have to accept. The Tinkers preform true to type but have hilt components that are less than optimal if your looking for accuracy. In my opinion this is more than fair trade off for something that preforms as well as these swords do. You can easily change the way they look, but it's not so easy to change he way they preform.
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Lunaman
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Post by Lunaman on Jun 24, 2012 16:19:03 GMT
For the price point you are considering, the H/T Viking is about as happy as you can get. It's a good sword, it handles like a high-end piece because it was designed by Tinker. The only thing that's "off" about it is that the grip is a bit too long and the point a bit too narrow. You're going to have to compromise on some details at a budget price, but the Hanwei Tinker delivers on all the really important stuff: blade geometry and mass distribution and weight.
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Post by Voltan on Jun 24, 2012 17:44:03 GMT
Agreed, you can't go wrong with the Hanwei/Tinker line for the price. I have both the Early Medieval Single Hander and the Longsword, and I would trust my life to either of them.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 18:53:00 GMT
Thanks a lot guys. So the H/T is better than say the Darksword 11th century Viking, Gen 2 8th century viking, or gen 2 Witham?
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Post by William Swiger on Jun 24, 2012 20:08:41 GMT
I have the Gen2 Witham, Gen2 8th Century and H/T. None of them are what I would consider completely true to an original viking era sword. As was pointed out, you have to compromise at the sub 300 cost.
H/T is a good sword and handles very well. Grip is too long.
Gen2 Witham is another good sword. I removed the old non-historic grip and replaced with leather and blued the fittings. It is on the upper end as far as weight goes. Fuller does not run under the tang which is not historical.
Gen2 8th Century is alright but the grip is too long. Fuller does not run under the tang which is not historical.
I would have to give handling to the H/T. I would give the G2 Witham the edge in looks after the mods I did. 8th Century is third place.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 21:18:55 GMT
So if I took the Hanwei, maybe worked on slightly changing tip shape to be more true to nature, and then blued the fitting and slightly shortened the tang for a shorter handle I'd be in business?
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Post by swordmaster0813 on Jun 24, 2012 21:23:11 GMT
i have a darksword armoury guardian sword for sale for 250 if ur interested great sword very cool design and very sharp
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2012 21:42:32 GMT
Not really my thing, sorry.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2012 16:12:03 GMT
I've gotten two words to this point, being somewhat new to this like yourself. Both swords were $300, one a Darksword Armory Scottish Claymore, and the other. Legacy Arms Gen 2 River Witham 9th century Viking sword. In all aspects, the Gen 2 is at least twice the sword as the DSA, at the same price point. The DSA was supposed to be shipped sharp. It was not. The blade will however, take an edge in some places - SOME PLACES ONLY. The Gen 2 is evenly sharp, and cuts well. Neither of these swords, or likely any sword at this price point, are historically accurate. The Gen 2 however shows a far higher quality of materials and workmanship a cross the board. The DSA rattles 1/2" side to side in its scabbard, and the Gen 2 fits easily yet tightly. Hold the Gen 2 upside down by the scabbard and the sword stays put.. Both swords have furniture symmetry issues, but the DSA langets are obviously and clearly off center, opposite the of center wander of the blade fuller. Just looks quite shabby, along with the tool marks still plainly obvious on the hilt. I don't know about the other offerings at $300, but itf it comes to a choice between DSA and Gen 2, one is well worth the $300 and the other falls well short.
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LeMal
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Post by LeMal on Jul 4, 2012 23:12:26 GMT
Just noticing this thread now--and noticing a lot of discussion of Gen2--might I suggest you take a look at the Gen2 Henry V? Everybody seems to be talking more Viking-type swords lately, but you did mention you were looking for an "arming sword" at first. Shy of my Sovereign (and actually in a dead heat with it) my Henry V is my favorite Euro double-edged single-hander. (And btw, I presume you don't want to go to the trouble of rehilting your own sword, but if so, let me tell you the criticisms of Cold Steel can be absolute shite. I'm in total agreement with anyone here that the Euros are not recommended, but what sinks the deal can be summed up in two words: "nut pommel." And not Atrim style hex nut, they're fine. But CS non-Euros are good to great, & if I were in the mood for another d.e./s.h. Euro, as I have my own preferred method of rehilting these days, I'd take a CS Viking, Norman, or I especially have my eye on the Dynasty Forge Type XVI--nd DF is suspected by many as being the blade source for the CS Euros. Just keep in mind starting out, just because a sword may suck as a complete unit doesn't mean the blade itself is bad--and it's possible to fix the bad hilting of a great blade but not the reverse. The same is true for some Windlasses and Hanweis. If you get into rehilting you may find diamonds hidden in the feces-pile. )
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