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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2007 6:05:15 GMT
I decided to try my hand at putting a Hamon on a sword, The Cheness Kanbai is a differentially hardened sword but the Hamon was barely visible, so I had a go at etching a new visible hamon on the sword. Below are the results Before 1 Before 2 After 1 After 2 I am rather pleased with the results, sometimes I surprise myself All the best,,,,Boony
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Post by tajima on Aug 10, 2007 6:09:48 GMT
That is beautiful, really! I love it! It looks pro and is very clean. What method did you use?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2007 6:17:28 GMT
Yes you must post how you did it in the sword customizing forum, that is a really nice job boony, well done
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2007 6:57:29 GMT
OK Guys, Here's how to do it,
Ingredients
1 bottle of Ferric Chloride Etchant Solution (any semprini Smith or Tandy shop)
1 packet on Bi Carb of Soda (Baking Soda) NOT BAKING POWDER
1 sheet of 3000 grit wet and dry or a 4000 grit pad most auto paint shops have this
1 Artliner permanent felt tip marker
1 bottle of Methylated Spirits (in case you get thirsty)
Method
a. dismantle the sword and make sure the blade is free from oil
b. paint your squiggly line on the blade with the felt marking pen (I used a pen with a wide tip)( it also doesn't hurt to make the line fairly wide, even right back to the Shinogi)
c. Put a bit of Ferric Chloride in the bottle cap and dip in a cotton wool ball, wipe the Ferric Chloride onto the exposed edge of the blade and try to get it even (the Ferric Chloride won't penetrate the ink from the felt pen)
d. leave the blade standing with the Ha down for around ten minutes.
e. wash off the Ferric Chloride with water
f. Apply a good coating of Bicarb of Soda that you mixed up into a paste before you etched the blade. ( This neutralizes the Ferric Chloride) (Leave the Bicarb of Soda on for about two minutes)
g. Wash the whole lot off with water
h. Put a bit of Methylated Spirits on a soft cloth and wipe all the ink off the blade.
h. Polish the blade and the Hamon with the 3000 - 4000 grit paper or pad until you get it just the way you would like it
i. Re-oil the blade and your done
Have fun, Regards,,,,,Boony
Just a footnote, I don't think the Ferric Chloride will work on Stainless Steel Blades, so be careful.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2007 18:05:15 GMT
Excellent work boony. +1 I have added a link for this page to my Katana Building and Customization Links thread under the metal work section. Perhaps this thread belongs in the Customization section.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2007 22:03:49 GMT
One thing I didn't add to the ingredients:-
The Artline PERMINENT Marking Pen must be the BLACK INK one
Boony
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2007 3:03:07 GMT
Thanks for that boony, this should really come in handy for a few people.
Quick question:
When you mix the bicarb into a paste I'm assuming you use water?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2007 3:11:27 GMT
Hi Hippy,
Water will do fine
Regards...Boony
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Post by handforgedkatanas on Aug 11, 2007 4:30:54 GMT
Nice one Boony,one more question do you apply the bicarb exactly on the etch line or does it matter if it goes on the rest of the blade?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2007 4:33:08 GMT
I usually just put it on the etch line but I don't think it matters if you get it on the blade.
Regards Boony
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Post by handforgedkatanas on Aug 11, 2007 4:45:38 GMT
Thanks Boony,that`s my weekend sorted,etching it is.
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Post by tajima on Aug 12, 2007 7:33:53 GMT
GREAT tutorial. Boony, you are going to settle in very nicely.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2007 20:20:40 GMT
Hello I'm new here.
I was just curious as to why you created your own pattern with the etch, And not enhance the real hamon pattern?
Eirik Hansen
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 0:37:00 GMT
The hamon on Cheness swords seem to be rather straight. My guess is that Boony created the pattern to add more character to it.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2007 2:28:15 GMT
Hi Guys'
I tried polishing the Kanbai to enhance the Hamon and all to no avail, I just could'nt bring it out any better than it was originally, so the next step was to replace it, and it came out rather well.
Regards,,,,Boony
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Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2007 16:42:08 GMT
Got question for you mate, Did you do a long session of polishing afterwards to take off the oxides? I've only done a few passes on it with a 2000 grit wet and dry. I just followed your instructions (most of them) and etched a hamon on to my stainless steel iaito blade. Looks amazing, but foudn some problems such as, the etchant at the start not evenly spread leaving tiny darker marks then the rest in some areas. Also after 10 mins was the blade all black? I only left it on for around a minute... or less.... Washed it off, applied the bicarb paste, then washed that off. Anyhow some pics....
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Post by tajima on Aug 15, 2007 23:23:20 GMT
It works on stainless? I'm going to try it on my wallhanger tanto then.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2007 3:59:33 GMT
Yeh works on stainless, etches pretty fast too.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2007 5:03:44 GMT
Hi Guys,
I've been away for a while,,,,,It looks like you have had some pretty good results with the etching.
It's nice to know that it also works on stainless steel,,I didn't know that.
Anyway keep up the good work...All the best...Boony
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2007 2:12:47 GMT
HI I was wondering is it posible to take out a hamon on a sword and make a new one.
If posible can u make a tut with pics on how to do that process with the pics of you process
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