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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2007 21:29:30 GMT
I have a question. When you use the grit pads which one do you use first, the wet one or the dry one? also, I found a ferric chloride etchant solution for copper, will this one do the work?
Thanks!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2007 3:59:40 GMT
Hi Ninjastar, if the Hamon is etched or brushed it should be possible to remove it, however if it's diff hardened the Hamon should stay there regardless of polishing, I have a Cheness "Kanbai" which was supposed to have a genuine Harmon (Diff Hardened) but the hamon was so faint I decided to polish it back to make it more prominent, after a lot of polishing the harmon was totally gone and that's what prompted me to use the above method, once your hamon has been removed, it should be possible to put on any design you want using the etching method.
Hi alexcarranza I use the pads wet, however I do find using them that they tend to wrap over the sharpened edge of the sword blunting it enough that i requires resharpening which with my method is quick and simple and returns a shaving razor sharp edge.
Regards Boony
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2008 13:32:42 GMT
great how-to. One question, what do you mean by a tandy shop? i don't think i have ever heard of the acid sources. Is there anywhere else you can find it that may be where i live? i have ruined blades before using strong acid antiquing the blades. A really strange thing happend... they cracked believe it or not. I don't know what the science is behind it is. And if i did not see it right in front of my eyes i would not have believed it. I used muratic pool acid. and it was doing fine (worked well on other blades before) and i could hear noises in the blade. well long story short it put hairline cracks in the blade. I have asked around but no one knows exactly why. One person guessed it may be because it was a case hardend type of blade? So i am very interested in a low impact acid etch and would love to figure out a source for the one you noted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2008 14:13:03 GMT
Tandy is a leather company for the most part but they carry some other specific craft supplies too. You might also try hobby lobby or something like that. Lemon juice and apple cider vinegar are also great low impact acids for etching steel. Muriatic acid destroys steel, it's way too strong for etching blades with.
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slav
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Post by slav on Jan 31, 2008 16:08:06 GMT
Ferric Acid (FeCl) is the most versatile etching compound and is available at Radio Shack. It will be in a bottle marked "PCB Etchant".
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2008 17:51:07 GMT
And it works more quickly when warm. You can buy it in a dried form which is easier to store and mix to your required strength using hot water for quicker etching. You can use other substances, like mustard which sticks to the blade more readily but it is harder to get an even result with it. Running the blade under hot water beforehand also helps speed the process up. Acetone/nail varnish remover is also often used to clean/degrease the blade beforehand so you can get a more even etch.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2008 2:42:22 GMT
thanks guys, really good info. I have the standard issue radio shack here and there is a micheals in town so i may have luck finding it. when i was usuing the muratic acid i was trying to give steel an aged look. i have used to good effect the chlorine but you have to really watch it because it doesn't take long.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2008 0:31:47 GMT
Great job on the etching Boony, I was curious, any tip to making sure your etched hamon was mirrored on both sides?
I was thinking of taking a long stretch of paper/ bristol board and tracing out your sword, marking how you'd like to see the new hamon, cutting it out along the 'new' hamon line, and adhering it to the ha, using it as a template so the final etch was the same on both sides...
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2010 13:22:00 GMT
btw - Red Sharpie works just fine too! Thanks, jason
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Brett Whinnen
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Post by Brett Whinnen on Sept 28, 2010 20:37:31 GMT
A Tandy store carries pretty much the same stock as a Radio Shack Same store type different names
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