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Post by lamebmx on Feb 5, 2012 14:01:52 GMT
along with jakeonthekob's excellent advice, i have to add. CLEAN BETWEEN EACH GRIT. if your using rags, fresh rag for each grit. fresh water for each grit. rinse off super good whatever you are working on for between each grit. that pesky 500 grit particles will wait until the final stages to rear its ugly head and give you a few nice scratches.
also as has been mentioned, finish up going the length of the sword. but it seems to help if you keep things very even thoughout the whole process. ////////// not /////|///// ... also dont forget overhead light and spot lamp to hunt for old scratches under your current scratch pattern. With a little practice you will learn what angle you need to make your last pattern shine under the current one.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2012 21:37:12 GMT
I tried to find the 3000 grit sandpaper but it only comes in a sponge. Is that what 3000 grit comes in? Or does it come in paper form like all the others?
Yeah I thought about cleaning between each grit and I also learned that the stroke pattern makes a difference.
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Post by lamebmx on Feb 7, 2012 22:33:46 GMT
thats the only way I have found it.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2012 23:09:22 GMT
lol how in the world did you use it then? When I looked at it I figured there would be no way because the sponge would give under the pressure I exert on it with the blade. Oh and I found this site that has a plethora of stones. www.sharpeningsupplies.com/sharp ... rials.aspx
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Post by lamebmx on Feb 8, 2012 18:12:18 GMT
At that stage, since most likely you are going to be running the length of the blade I just rubbed it down the blade. At that fine of a grit its ABOUT meaningless to avoid the shinogi, very very very little metal gets removed. Though I would advise to avoid pressure on the shinogi/mune. Again, dont do this on nihonto. Yea sharpening supplies is a good place. They have a lot of decent info comparing the different types of stones/plates. Advertising info, so they dont delve into the cons. only thing they really miss though is feedback. stones give the best feedback, diamond plates the worst.
you dont need to use pressure. just the weight of the blade will do it. well maybe light pressure for the kitchen knives you are practicing on.
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Post by Jakeonthekob on Feb 9, 2012 4:27:24 GMT
Use micromesh. There's a set that goes from 1500 to 12000 grit and it should hold you for at least a couple swords and knives practice. However, if you want to really conserve the geometry and sharpness of the edge and all the lines, I would say that getting a 3000/6000 double grit waterstone should serve you well for a couple years. Naniwa, Norton, and King brands make pretty decent artificial stones if you wanted something that'll last at least a couple years of use. However, if you are going to get a waterstone, a rough shaping stone is a MUST HAVE. Otherwise your stone will become unusable after a few swords and then that's money down the drain. Something like this for the stones: www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Naniw ... 03C97.aspx I would go for the 1000/3000 or 1000/4000 grit stones from any of the brands I mentioned above. And you could get something like this for the micromesh: www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004014/2004014.aspxGL!
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Post by lamebmx on Feb 9, 2012 11:35:59 GMT
I will add: same place, look at the DMT diamond plates for the shaping, no wear and they work FAAAAST. be careful though, they have about no feedback so check your work extra often.
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