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Post by jam on Jul 8, 2015 11:52:41 GMT
In Japan, swords are considered a part of their cultural heritage. They are regulated, and you must jump through hoops to acquire a license to own one there. They are indeed made from high quality materials, and you pay a premium for them. Due to the restrictions that are placed on the smiths and buyers, the craft of making them is no longer flourishing, nor are the other trades associated with it, like polishers and fitting makers. The polishing of a nihonto and the polishing of a modern replica like many of us buy are completely different. The steels react very differently to the stones used by traditional polishers, and a real polish by a professional polisher can cost thousands of dollars. Most production swords are polished by machines and lower skilled laborers using things like sandpaper, buffing wheels and acids to etch in order to save money. Some, like Huawei, have gotten pretty dang good at it, as evidenced by your sword. All good info, although I wasn't aware of the need to "jump through hoops" to own a nihonto in Japan. AFAIK importing, exporting, owning and travelling with nihonto within Japan is not too much of an issue for natives or visitors, provided fairly basic requirements are met, and one doesn't transport the sword unnecessarily and without reason. |
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Post by skurren on Jul 9, 2015 13:29:04 GMT
i could not be happier he is gonna send me a rayskin saya because the was a mixup and its not small pices like some do where you see the same pattern over and over this is the real some do its the real deal... know that i got it i would never sell it averything is so nicely done the handle is tight and small things like the quality of the menuku? bambu pegs and the habaki is handmade not 1mm of glitch ther tight as %#%¤%¤"¤%"  |
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Post by skurren83 on Jul 12, 2015 8:34:47 GMT
i am going ti buy a ne handle suka but wat is the japanese term for his material its a leather but its not the shiny side like in youre car its the backside so its a Little fusst i can only find this i dont want that glosy fake leather i want this soft fussy leather
PLEASE HELP |
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Post by skurren83 on Jul 12, 2015 9:06:27 GMT
stunami suede
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Post by skurren83 on Jul 12, 2015 9:39:40 GMT
tsunami and material mocka suede
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Jul 12, 2015 21:35:26 GMT
Tsunami tsuka ito can be found in different colors from Fred Lohman's site. Luck in your quest. |
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Post by c on Jan 21, 2017 0:29:21 GMT
I'm looking to commission my first custom katana, and I'm trying to make sure I get the blade just right. I've done a good bit of reading (including this thread), but I still have a couple basic questions related to a larger ambiguity w/r/t the spectrum of intersections between these three things: carbon content, tempering, and blade construction. Hopefully a good answer to these will save me (and all of you) from a much longer and more confusing and uninformed post.
Question 1: Is it redundant or wrong to use differential-hardening and some form of laminated construction both on one blade? I've not seen that specific claim anywhere, but I got the impression from descriptions that they are basically different means to the same end.
Question 2: I've been told by a vendor (whom I've seen criticized here, but offers customization that I can't resist looking into) that clay-tempering on a 1060 blade will cause it to be too fragile, and that 1095 is ideal. Is this correct? I was under the impression that a 1095 blade is by nature more fragile than a 1060 blade, and that clay-tempering on 1060 was fairly common.
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Post by Croccifixio on Jan 21, 2017 0:33:57 GMT
I'm looking to commission my first custom katana, and I'm trying to make sure I get the blade just right. I've done a good bit of reading (including this thread), but I still have a couple basic questions related to a larger ambiguity w/r/t the spectrum of intersections between these three things: carbon content, tempering, and blade construction. Hopefully a good answer to these will save me (and all of you) from a much longer and more confusing and uninformed post. Question 1: Is it redundant or wrong to use differential-hardening and some form of laminated construction both on one blade? I've not seen that specific claim anywhere, but I got the impression from descriptions that they are basically different means to the same end. Question 2: I've been told by a vendor (whom I've seen criticized here, but offers customization that I can't resist looking into) that clay-tempering on a 1060 blade will cause it to be too fragile, and that 1095 is ideal. Is this correct? I was under the impression that a 1095 blade is by nature more fragile than a 1060 blade, and that clay-tempering on 1060 was fairly common. Historically, lamination was a way to save the good steel for one the cutting edge and have softer, cheaper steel form the bulk of the sword. Aesthetics were a bonus. It did produce a likely intended effect of differential hardening of the sword since the different steels would definitely have different hardness levels. But the asian swordsmiths in China, Japan, Korea, and Southeast Asia still used both methods in the same sword. No. 1060 is quite close in composition to many older katana (which have on the average 0.7% carbon). And however you heat treat the sword, 1060 will always have a bit more resilience than a similarly heat treated sword simply because it won't be as hard. |
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Post by Verity on Jan 21, 2017 0:53:27 GMT
1.) lamination (there are several types) was due to using different grades of steel and is separate from differential hardening. Your traditional nihonto may be laminated or not (most are), AND folded, AND differentially hardened. This was all due to the Japanese working to overcome the natural impurities in their iron. Mostly unimportant aside from aesthetic reasons in modern steels
2.) no. 1060 is a perfectly fine sword steel. All things being equal a 1060 differentially hardened sword will have a bit softer edge and spine due to the lower carbon content than 1095. 1095 will have a harder edge and a harder spine. (Again assuming the EXACT same heat treat). But most smiths worth their salt know how to make adjustments for this. I have insanely durable and hard 1060 swords and a 1095 differentially hardened one you'd swear has the springiness and durability of a through-hardened 5160. Steel is so much less important than the smith crafting the blade and doing the heat treatment.
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Post by c on Jan 21, 2017 20:24:07 GMT
Thanks, Verity and Croccifixio, this is all very helpful.
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Post by seriouslee on Jan 23, 2017 21:37:51 GMT
Incredibly so.
I got a 1060 blade form S&A after reading this thread.
Thank you all for the information.
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Post by Nicolai on Mar 1, 2017 15:06:27 GMT
Hey guys after much reading in these forums and considering swords from ebay, aliexpress, roninkatana, Hanwei and REALLY being lost due to choices, I located a NBTHK certified Nihonto, from what I can tell from the Sengoku period (made between 1532-1555) by a smith named Kanemoto. It's the sword in a Shirasaya, no fittings, which doesn't bother me, I could select those I really want and fit the sword/period. It's priced at around 3'200$. Well I know guys, from buying a chinese wallhanger straight to a Nihonto is a big step. But really, I thought I'd use a Katana as display piece, a piece of art to admire and that wouldn't be right with a chinese production sword. well. long story short: what do I need to look for when buying a Nihonto? How can I interpret the certificate? Any further advice? Here is a picture of the certificate: imgur.com/a/SvnbSI'll try to upload pictures of the blade as well Thanks for any advice, cheers! |
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Post by Verity on Mar 1, 2017 15:25:45 GMT
There is no short answer to evaluating a Nihonto. Kantei is an art form of its own. There is the Nihonto Message Board (which a few of us are members of in addition to here). Learn and study there.
The basic points I would say are ensure no fatal flaws (like hagire). Clean crisp machi (hamachi and munemachi). That certificate appears legitimate (probably a kicho paper?). The judge stamps are present.
You'd have to post lots more photos of the blade for me to provide any sort of evaluation, but based on the one pic I see, it looks ok. $3200 is a decent price for a katana length Nihonto even with minor flaws. The kissaki in that photo looks blackened which could either be staining or could be rust. The latter would be more concerning. Also remember that a polish on a Nihonto by a certified togishi is NOT cheap and can run $100 per INCH of blade in some cases.
Just want to make sure you are armed with some important knowledge.
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Post by Nicolai on Mar 1, 2017 15:32:29 GMT
Thank you very much for your first assessment, verity.
I know I'm asking an impossible task, so I'm grateful for any inputs. In my state of knowledge, it might be wise to buy from a reputable dealer, which could be more expensive but there should also be less risk involved.
I have uploaded some more pictures, I'm going to inspect the blade myself and take some more - of course also disassembled. I'll also thoroughly check for any rust.
I'm looking forward for any further input!
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Post by Verity on Mar 1, 2017 15:48:18 GMT
Thank you very much for your first assessment, verity. I know I'm asking an impossible task, so I'm grateful for any inputs. In my state of knowledge, it might be wise to buy from a reputable dealer, which could be more expensive but there should also be less risk involved. I have uploaded some more pictures, I'm going to inspect the blade myself and take some more - of course also disassembled. I'll also thoroughly check for any rust. I'm looking forward for any further input! Your previous link does not show additional pics? Is there another link? |
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Post by Nicolai on Mar 1, 2017 15:52:44 GMT
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Post by nicksbrain on Mar 1, 2017 17:39:32 GMT
Thanks to whoever activated my account These posts are mine and I'm looking forward to more answers, cheers! |
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Post by Verity on Mar 1, 2017 18:03:09 GMT
Still not sure what that is at the kissaki on the omote side, but could just be some staining. Looks like you have a coupe of spots with some light inactive rust (dark/black spots) or minor surface pitting. Not unexpected at this price point.
Solid healthy blade from the looks of it. Could use a fresh polish but as I mentioned this is a pricy venture.
Hamon consistent with the attributed smith. I doubt this is Magoroku Kanemoto (who is the most famous of the line). But prob 4th generation.
I'd say the asking price is fair. Good blade.
I can't see the hada from the pics but would guess it is a nice Itame, with areas of masame, and possibly some mokume but likely itame.
Nice healthy mino blade. :)
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Mar 1, 2017 19:04:07 GMT
Welcome to the forum Nicolai!
The sword you posted has papers by NTHK and not NBTHK. They are two different organizations but both are considered among the most reliable sources of sword identification. Of course financially NBTHK papers carry more value than NTHK do, as NBTHK papers are about a standard when it comes to business.
However personally I like NTHK papers because they give little bit extra information about the sword. The actual attribution is on the other side of the paper. The side you posted has the following information.
Mei - 兼元 Kanemoto
Jigane - 板目Itame
Hamon - 規則的な三本杉 Regular Sanbonsugi
Bōshi - 乱れ?み地蔵? Midare Jizō
Horimono -
Nakago - 目釘穴一 1 Mekugi-ana 鑢 桧垣 Yasurime Higaki
Biko - 天文頃 - Around Tenbun
I believe the NTHK Shinsa panel attributed it to 3rd generation Kanemoto. Regular sanbonsugi hamon & Tenbun (1532-1555) would fit to him. Regular sanbonsugi is usually from 3rd generation onwards feat. Sword looks to be in quite good condition and it is ubu (original length). I agree with Verity that asking price sounds fair and sword seems good. It always comes down to if you think you are willing to pay the price asked.
You can ask any questions you have and we will try to help as much as we can.
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Post by Verity on Mar 1, 2017 20:02:13 GMT
Ahhh see I didn't catch the era. Nice catch Jussi. Yeah that would indicate 3rd gen. Not 4th.
Magoroku is the highly sought after Kanemoto and is considered one of the finest smiths in Mino... i have seen more pieces by 3rd gen in a midare/gunome than sanbonsugi which is why I would guess 4th gen (early in career) vs 3rd. But could be so. Era seems to point to 3rd.
Either way, yes. Solid and healthy Mino piece. Some light surface issues that you could opt for a polish to get rid of. Looks to be plenty of meat on the blade to take a polish.
As Jussi says: a blade is worth what you are willing to pay. Jussi and I both agree the price is reasonable for what it is and it is a legitimate Nihonto from a smith in the Kanemoto line working in Mino of that consistent tradition.
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