|
Post by Dark smith on Jun 28, 2011 14:00:14 GMT
Hay I have a dsa two handed hundred years war sword, the grip is peeling off does any one have any fixes to this problem apart from re-griping the hilt?
|
|
|
Post by william m on Jun 28, 2011 17:50:22 GMT
Have you thought of glue?
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 28, 2011 17:57:10 GMT
superglue...thats prolly how it was attatched in the first place
|
|
|
Post by william m on Jun 28, 2011 17:58:51 GMT
Don't think it would had been superglue, that stuff can seep through materials and burn cotton/silk.
I take it that this is a leather grip?
|
|
|
Post by Dark smith on Jun 28, 2011 18:12:50 GMT
Yes it is a leather grip
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 28, 2011 18:23:54 GMT
i use superglue on all my leather wraps, but maybe it can ruin other materials. ive never tryed.
|
|
|
Post by Dark smith on Jun 30, 2011 16:42:18 GMT
kay I'm using super glue for my leather grip but if I need to re-grip it is there a brand of glue that you guys use for it
|
|
|
Post by chrisperoni on Jun 30, 2011 18:34:18 GMT
Actually, I use a 2 part epoxy- I've used the stuff that sets in 5 min and the kind that sets in 15min. I find the fact that the epoxy is a gel makes applying it easier and reduces just how much soaks through to the front/visible side of the grip. I find superglue is very runny and if it soaks through the leather all the way it makes the leather hard as a rock. The epoxy holds just as well but leaves the top layer of the leather softer. For what it's worth most grip making tutorials and videos I've watched from professional swordmakers have used an epoxy, not superglue. Any old brand will do- even the stuff from the dollar store works fine for this, but I usually buy a name brand like 3m, lepage, gorilla...etc. Really any kind of glue will work so long as it says it can bond to leather and it;s not childrens glue
|
|
ghost
Member
Posts: 1,323
|
Post by ghost on Jun 30, 2011 20:03:47 GMT
mmm you got lucky. The grip on my DSA black knight peeled after 5 mins of dry handling right out of the box. I use subfloor industrial adhesive - really strong stuff (fills in gaps/unevenness under expensive flooring) so it handles impact really well and is waterproof. I would go with epoxy - has the same "feel" as the adhesive - Epoxy is just so pricey unless you buy in bulk...well it's still pretty darn pricey Saito's HT Viking grip was the first I used it on - (i've been pestering him to see how he likes it) I'd stay away from superglue like Chris said - just because it hardens rock-hard and causes the leather to really harden up. Its great for securing your risers though - if you have fraying you can just use a Xacto / board cutters to slice off the hardened strands. Gorilla glue also is not a good idea - tested it out on a hammer grip - the glue will try and expand wherever it can - even with cord binding, it can seep though any pores, edges, and especially the overlap. very difficult to remove excess w/o damaging the leather. It forms a foam bubble wherever it seeps though and dries - you can't really pop it and removing it is hard - stretches and yanks everything with it
|
|
|
Post by Dark smith on Jun 30, 2011 22:01:12 GMT
Okay thanks and with my sword I just kinda ignored it until it just got to bad yea if I need to regrip it I'll use epoxy thanks for the advise. You know if epoxy could seep down and weaken the tang and what oz. Of leather would you recamend
|
|
|
Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jul 2, 2011 16:01:11 GMT
The grip on th Viking is wonderful Ghost, im really diggin it. Holds rock solid after rigourous use. its my go to for everything blade so it sees alot of use. no trouble so far...and what kind of leather did you use? its NICE.
|
|
|
Post by SlayerofDarkness on Jul 2, 2011 16:27:52 GMT
As for what oz of leather to use, I use 1-2oz pigskin, generally, but some I have also used super-thin leather (.5oz?) which works really well, and 2-3oz, for a softer, slightly thicker feel. Generally, though, pigskin is my fave. The thinner the leather is, the better it will conform to risers and cord impressions, just FYI. I hope this helps, and good luck! -Slayer
|
|
ghost
Member
Posts: 1,323
|
Post by ghost on Jul 2, 2011 18:32:50 GMT
5-6 oz. upholstery leather that was already treated and sealed...got like 5 diff. colored pieces (4" x 6") off ebay for $10 Really hard to overlap with these - they need to be done Brenno style - seamless. ^DSA black knight rewrapped. The cord pattern and risers show up great but you really have to "tool" the leather (pull the cord overwrap to nearly breaking point). I would recommend using 2 oz like slayer advises for your first wrap, smith. Brenno's way is quite tricky - takes a bit of practice to make a straight seam.
|
|
|
Post by chuckinohio on Jul 3, 2011 13:39:45 GMT
Looks like you have a firm handle on the process, the grip on that bastard is pretty sweet looking.
|
|
|
Post by Dark smith on Jul 25, 2011 2:04:27 GMT
alright got some practice for re-griping my sword my uncle wanted a leather grip on his machete it turned out nice i did it Brenno's way first time doing it ill post pics soon.
|
|
Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
|
Post by Greg on Jul 25, 2011 2:15:18 GMT
I use Elmer's Glue-All. But I wrap my leather grips in twine while they dry, so that helps push out any excess material. I'd actually avoid superglue. It's a very brittle glue and if you get any on the outside of your grip, you'll be able to feel it. Epoxy is a bit softer... generally speaking. And that is why I use glue all. I can hardly tell that it's there at all. But, this will likely be your first of many rewraps. Once I got started, I couldn't stop.
|
|
ChrisA
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,240
|
Post by ChrisA on Jul 25, 2011 16:20:47 GMT
I use leather glue I got from Tandy. Works great.
|
|
|
Post by Dark smith on Jul 25, 2011 16:46:49 GMT
Thats the kind of glue I use
|
|
Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
|
Post by Greg on Jul 25, 2011 18:21:26 GMT
Oddly enough, the leather glue that I got from Tandy was crap... well, lemme rephrase that. The leather glue that I got from my local craft store that carries Tandy products is crap. Or maybe I'm just not letting it set long enough. Either way, it's the Eco-Flo water based stuff. Haven't had much luck, but again, maybe I'm just not letting it set.
|
|
|
Post by Dark smith on Jul 25, 2011 18:39:51 GMT
Try the tanners bond brand that's the glue that I use
|
|