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Post by johnapsega on Jun 6, 2011 7:16:49 GMT
That's interesting and something that we might want to talk about to Hanwei as a community. BTW that is very impressive that you have all of them. Whats your overall impressions of the line. I am glad that we agree and it is very annoying because since I blued the pommel on my Bastard and removed the color back to normal, The furniture is a nice satin finish except for a very shiny spot on the pommel and now that I want to sell it its going to drive the amount I can ask for the sword way down.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 6, 2011 7:27:08 GMT
I like them all. None of mine were very sharp. I don't mind that as I sharpen my swords anyway. The really rough finish on the blades is probably my biggest gripe. While I don't care for really shiny blades it is easy to make a shiny blade more of a satin finish. Going from a very coarse finish to a more shiny/satin finish is a lot of work especially on H/Ts, the blades are harder to re-finish than most swords I have worked on. Of course it would be nice if the pommels and guards were consistent, using one type of steel. As far as handling, I don't think you can in general find a better handling sword for the price. That's why I bought them.
On your pommel, have you tried using a scotch bright pad to give it an even finish? I use the gray pads and have had good results. bender
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Post by johnapsega on Jun 6, 2011 7:34:16 GMT
Thank you I appreciate the advice if I have the extra cash ill between now and the time I sell it ill give it a shot.
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Post by william m on Jun 8, 2011 9:21:14 GMT
Hmm, I am really concerned that the tinker Viking series may have stainless steel fittings, although in the thread that was linked tinker said they they do not, to the best of his knowledge..... Hehe the vendor is going to have a hard time with me asking for a sword that is sharp, has the best pien with little damage to the pommel, no wood sticking up from the pien and lastly magnetic fittings.. lol they are going to be confused by the last one!
Does anybody have a shot of the tinker that shows the rough polish? I have a new generation Paul chen tai chi sword and I suspect that the polish will be similar. That is to say you can feel the individual lines on the blade, like the randall cutting jian.
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, time to give out some karma!
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 8, 2011 12:14:31 GMT
the polish basically looks like a 600 grit quickie job. strictly utilitarian, when i got mine the first thng i thought was "this looks more like a tool than a sword" its really grown on me though and after sharpening/polishing i like it. i took t to a 1000 grit polish
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2011 15:39:48 GMT
William the polish on the H/Ts are in the 120 grit range, you can definitely feel the individual lines on the blade, a very course finish. It isn't any way near 600 grit (the blade would be shiny at that finish), that I can tell you. I polished my bastard sword to 400 grit and had to start with 150 grit paper. Unfortunately my camera is DOA and I have no way to take pictures or I would have been happy to show you the finish on the blade. I have linked to these pics (happens to be a Norman sword, but the finish is the same) they give you a good idea of the finish of a H/T: therionarms.com/reenact/therionarms_c1216.htmlDo ask the vendor to check the peen on the pommel, my H/T Viking looked like they gave the job to a chimp that was blind in one eye. He hit the pommel more than the end of the tang. :lol: bender
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Jun 8, 2011 16:08:55 GMT
sorry for being late to the party guys but I was out of town for a few days. looks like you guys are figuring out how to grip the swords and not hurt yourself but I thought I'd throw out my personal opinion on the matter, maybe it will help.
even though I'm not using a brazil nut or wide viking pommel I also talk about those specifically later in the vid and it works for me.
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Post by william m on Jun 18, 2011 17:21:09 GMT
Hey, About time to wrap this thread up. Many thanks to Bender for the info and the link. The finish looks just like my PC practical tai chi, and also that of the cutting jian. It is a pretty nasty finish and is a bit of an eyesore. I especially do not like how you can feel the individual lines with the finger, it is a very lazy finish from Hanwei and will take a long time polishing to correct. The tinker seems to be a bit of a hit and miss with regards to the pomel. I will have to ask specifically for one that is magnetic and has the least amount of damage from the peining work. However there doesnt seem to be anything within my price range that will handle as well as the tinker. I am currently in discussion with somebody for a third hand Albion Squire viking. If it falls through them the next one down seems to be the H/T viking. Thanks to everybody who has helped me out!
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Post by william m on Jul 4, 2011 18:34:21 GMT
Just a quick update. I have been talking to a UK retailer and they seem convinced that ALL of the tinker vikings have stainless steel fittings. They said that anybody who thought that it may be mild steel, might actually be detecting the magnetic steel tang.
This sounds like a plausible explanation.
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Luka
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Post by Luka on Jul 4, 2011 20:07:57 GMT
I don't think so since guard on my viking is different than a pommel. I can't now because I'm not home this week but I could check it again since I have dissasembled parts at home.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2011 23:38:33 GMT
On my H/T Viking that is the case.
The pommel on my sword had several hammer marks on the top near the peen. I removed them with a dremel and a grinding stone. The metal of the pommel gave off sparks when grinding.That realistically only leaves iron, steel, or steel alloys. Since there is no detectable magnetic field (caused by the alloying of steel with enough nickle to alter the magnetic properties of the steel) the pommel and guard are made from a stainless steel alloy.
It is possible to pick up a weak magnetic attraction as you move a magnet closer to the center of the guard or pommel where the tang is located.
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