With fuller or without? (Pearce bastard sword)

I would go with fuller. It's a later design by Tinker that he crafted with the intent of making it a better cutter. He changed the blade's mass-distribution to accommodate this, but since the profile has changed little between the two I'd imagine it's just as good of a thruster as the non-fullered version.
The blade without the fuller might be a bit stiffer yes, but the difference in that or strength would be very slight.

Basically, the fullered version is the updated design, so that's the one to go with unless you have an aesthetic preference for the non-fullered. I think the non-fullered would look nice with a later period hilt, but for the one they have the fullered version looks more appropriate. I've only handled the fullered version, and it's very nice for the price.

Both are good blades though. I've heard the non-fullered makes a great blade for a jian.

***NOTICE*** For the love of God, please do not let this thread become an ignorant sling fest of hogwash about fullers stiffening blades or improving cutting geometries or any of that ridiculousness, SBG. We're better than that. He just wants to know the difference between the Tinker Bastard models. Please.

As to your second question, that depends a lot on what kind of sword you think looks nice. Were you thinking of a one-hander, two hander, general time period?

Your second question basically comes down to, what do you want, honestly? If you're just looking for general recommendations we've got that out the wazoo, but we can't really help you with making a decision unless you put forth a few specifics.

The Hanwei/Tinker line of swords, in general, are excellent buys at their price point. The biggest caveat, however, is that while the steel and construction of the swords are good, currently you can't expect *too* much else.

To wit, these are the most common gripes:
--Blade often comes fairly blunt even though it's advertised as "sharp" in most places

--Scabbard is cheap plastic, fittings sometimes scrape/blunt the blade, blade is often loose in scabbard...

--Stock grips are fairly small and the wood occasionally shrinks, causing loose grip.

--Fittings (pommel and guard) are an inconsistent mix of steel; no stainless steel, but they aren't pure mild or carbon steel, which means that weird things can happen when you try to chemically colour them.

Beyond these, however, the fact does remain that they are in general good swords, and the price definitely can't be beaten. Once they're sharpened, and the grip made a little thicker (if you prefer), they'll do just fine!