Finally got my Napoleonic Mamoluke Sword/Sabre back!!!

I meant to add that I did a review of it when I got it sometime back if anyone is interested. It should be in the reviews, or review index, or possibly on the old site, just can't remember.
FB

Hey Dave,
I bet that was surely agrevating. But when I ordered it, it showed up at the house within no time at all. On the website they sure have some beautiful Napoleonic swords. I wonder if they are all has heavy, or blade heavy, as the Mamoluke? Sort of like Cold Steel's U.S. Heavy Cav sabre, fine sword, well made, well balanced but just too heavy for my likes. Just had to have it for its shere beauty. I would like to have that whole Napoleonic Collection.
FB

I used to have this sword, which is from military heritage. It was very well made and looked incredible!

Military Heritage swears these are NOT weaponedge swords. And as I'm the Queen of England I can vouch for him. :roll:

This replica of a Guards Chasseur a Cheval saber is unique. And yes the taper sucks. But a real one costs 5000GBP. I'll make do with the rep.

This fellow lives in Chicago and has spent a lifetime cornering these. He was trying to sell his Grenadier Guards type 3 1810 saber on ebay. Starting bis was 8000GBP.

I don't play in that league. To dream.

my.stratos.net/~jtorres/Galleria.html

Hello all,
I could have sworn when I got the Napoleonic Mamaluke Sabre I ordered from www.militaryheritage.com some time back I posted a review. But you said you could not find it, so here it is again. In the past I could not find reviews I had done eitehr. Anyway, I got the sword from the website just mentioned but actually they said to address the MO and order to "The Discriminating General". While I am no expert on either swords or proper terminology of parts, etc., I will ropost my humble review. So here goes:
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Military Heritage's Napoleonic Mameluke Sabre

This sabre feels a slight bit blade heavy but perhaps that is because I have not handled a sabre in so long, or perhaps my wrist and forearm muscles are out of shape. But it feels better each time I handle it.

WEIGHT: Weighed on old bathroom scales, so best I can tell: in its well made heavy scabbard; about 3 or 3.5lbs. Alone; abt 1+lbs or 2 lbs.

O.A. LENGTH: In scabbard, from tip of drag to end of pommel; 40 3/4". Just sword, straight from point to pommel, not following curve: 39 1/4'".

Blade:
Blade is superbly made, flexes nicely, with no discernable grind or file marks. Has what appears to be Klingenthal in script engraved on back of blade about ½” from guard.

LENGTH: Straight from point to guard, not following edge or curve; 33 5/8". Distance from back of center of blade to straight edge from point to guard above back of blade: 2".

THICKNESS: 5/16" at guard (including tang which runs through handle and is in shape of handle), 3½/16” in middle of blade, and narrowing to 3/16” at spot where it rapidly goes inward to form beginning of false edge, about 8 3/4" from point. False edge begins about 3/16" thick, 2 ½” in middle of false edge and goes to almost nothing at point. Sharp point too.

WIDTH: 1¼” at guard. 1 1/8” at center of blade. 1” about four” from point, then slopes on towards point.

P.O.B.: Abt 8 ¼” from guard.

“SWEET SPOT”: I am not sure what you call this spot or how to describe it. But when I tapped the edge on something, the best feeling spot with least vibration or strange feeling was about 12” from point. Felt more like a solid hit.

FULLER:
L: Beginning with squared end at ½” from guard to rounded end 7 ½” from point.
W: 13/16” wide at center of blade, beginning at back of blade to 3/8” from edge all along.

HANDLE:

GUARD: Well made solid brass with no mold or grind marks. About 5” tip to tip. 2 3/8” from tip to tip on other points of guard which point along blade and into handle grip. The one into handle nicely inletted into wood of grip.

Grip: Nicely finished oiled wood 1 ¼” wide at guard, 7/8” at narrowest part right before knobbed pommel with hole in it. The hole for lanyard or wrist strap is brass sleeved with ¼” hole. Three brass or copper rivets in handle. Handle thickness is right at 7/8” from guard to including pommel or end. This includes the 5/16” blade or tang which runs through handle to end.