Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 8, 2011 11:35:46 GMT
Hi everyone,
would just like to get a bit of a collective idea from other members.
What in your opinions is currently the best manufacturer and model of European style longsword (or hand 'n a half), that cuts very well, straight out of the box? - The reason i ask is; i recently got a hold of a Hanwei Tinker longsword "sharp version". And the secondary edge on it almost looks like it was done with an accusharp. It always bats milk bottles across the yard, making tiny cuts on the surface only. It's a very nice looking sword, and the balance and feel is great. I did read some reviews and see it was a bit of a hit and miss affair in regards to cutting..
So for my next Euro i want something preferably with a proper blade profile for cutting. And would appreciate any help being pointed to some really good examples, preferably under $400.
Thanks in advance!
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Post by Vincent Dolan on May 8, 2011 11:55:17 GMT
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SeanF
Member
Posts: 1,293
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Post by SeanF on May 8, 2011 14:16:49 GMT
You can also look into getting your Hanwei/Tinker Longsword sharpened. It is something that is doable by any owner, or you can pay to have someone else do it if you don't want to give it a go yourself. It would be a shame to retire your H/T because it came with a poor sharpening job, I would give it a chance before you got a second sword. I am very sympathetic to wanting something swords sharp out of the box, I hate sharpening too. But you do already own the H/T so you should try to re-coup your investment. I haven't handled the VA Practical, but all I have heard about it are good things, aside from the fact it is perpetually back-ordered. If you are looking at $400-ish and not a $400 hard cap you can check out www.triedandtruearmory.com. I don't know the specifics of any of their stock, but they are all highly regarded. |
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 8, 2011 14:38:07 GMT
Sharpening the blade on your Tinker is a relatively straight forward task. Given how good the blade is structurally for the price, its about the best value you're going to find in a $300 sword except for possibly the Atrim Practical Longsword. With a metal file and some whetstones, you should be able to get a pretty decent edge on it yourself. I'm in the habit of reworking the edges on almost all of my European blades anyway so I can get the edge just how I want. To be honest most of the time I wish I could pay a little less and have it come with a blade ready for sharpening as opposed to already sharpened and then I could do the rest. I don't want a stage combat edge, but I don't mind working with the typical Hanwei or Windlass false edge.
Atrims and Valiant Armory Signature Edition swords have very good edges out of the box from my experience. Hanwei, Windlass and others, not so much. Hanwei's and Windlass are fairly easy to sharpen once you learn the trick. It normally takes me an hour so for each edge. Once you get it down, it becomes muscle and memory and you can do it pretty quick.
I wouldn't necessarily recommend sending the sword out to be sharpened. By the time you pay for shipping it there and back and the cost of the sharpening, you could have bought a fairly cheap blade to practice sharpening on. Its never a bad idea to know how to do it yourself regardless of whether you are going to use files and stones or a belt sander. I know TomK has posted a guide on how he sharpens his blades with a belt sander.
My basic sharpening tools are a few metal files, jeweler's files, a diamond stone and a set of Arkansas stones. I also have various grits of sandpaper from 60 up to 600 that I can use to re-polish the blade if I scratch it up while sharpening it. The first few times I sharpened a sword I had some scratches to polish out. Now that I've done it multiple times, I can usually sharpen one without leaving scratches. You don't have to have an extensive set of files and stones, mine has just grown slowly over time as I've picked up new ones here and there for certain specific needs I had at the time. About the only blades I hesitate to sharpen myself are my more expensive Katana's. I have no problem honing them, I just haven't bought a cheap on to practice re-polishing on after sharpening. If I recall correctly, it took twice as long to learn how to properly polish a Katana then it did to learn how to make one.
At some point I need to put together a how-to on the way I hand sharpen a blade.
edited to fix typos......I really need to learn how type better, stupid hunt and peck typing...grumble, grumble, grumble............
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Talon
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
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Post by Talon on May 8, 2011 14:45:02 GMT
i would still suggest doing as the other's have said ,and sharpen the ht longsword first,it does get glowing reviews and when sharpened,it can hold it's own when it comes to cutting.it'll be good practice for you as all sword's need edge maintenence and the ht would be a perfect starting platform,then when you want to upgrade,id go to tried and true and pick up an atrim  |
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 8, 2011 14:47:26 GMT
Just realized i didn't directly answer your question. If you want one that you aren't going to have to work with straight out of the box, your best bets are the Atrim Practical Longsword for about $230 at KoA, the Valiant Armory lines at around $230-$400 also at KoA or an ATrim from Tried and True which are about $375 and up.
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Post by LittleJP on May 8, 2011 14:50:50 GMT
Sharpening the H/T is 4 hours of work, with the rough edge of an axe file. I'll take it off your hands if you dislike it that much  |
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 8, 2011 14:53:06 GMT
You must have gotten a really bad one then JP. I can normally get a nice working edge on a Hanwei in 2 hours or so. 4 hours is if I try for an absolute razor edge and then have to go back and re-polish it.
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Post by LittleJP on May 8, 2011 19:26:38 GMT
Well, 2 hours to reshape the bevel, then another 2 to go up from 400 grit all the way up to 2000.
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Sean (Shadowhowler)
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No matter where you go, there you are.
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Post by Sean (Shadowhowler) on May 8, 2011 20:17:45 GMT
If you want a quality longsword and your budget tops out at 400... I'd suggest an Atrim from Tried and True Armory myself. Tho as others have said... the H/T with an improved edge will be a good sword... for 400 an Atrim will be the best you can get.
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Post by LittleJP on May 9, 2011 0:15:40 GMT
I'm actually going to sell the Munitions grade longsword I picked up from TTA not long ago. Damn laptop fried on me.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2011 11:25:39 GMT
Thanks for all the advice guys!
I have been considering trying to sharpen it, but I gotta admit I'm still a bit too scared to damage it beyond repair.
The Atrim does sound good for when i've saved up some more dough in the future. Anyways i think i need to bite the bullet and will prob end up learning to sharpen the H/T from one of the guides on the site in the mean time.
Cheers.
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Post by 14thforsaken on May 9, 2011 12:08:34 GMT
if you go slow and take your time, its hard to damage it beyond repair. Just do a little at a time and if you are unsure, stop, check your work and go from there.
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Post by caferacer on May 9, 2011 15:04:26 GMT
you can not "damage it beyond repair" by sharpening it
and sharp out of the box is really a moot point, if you use it, sooner or later, you will need to sharpen it, there is no edge on anything that will not get dull with use,
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TomK
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Posts: 2,377
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Post by TomK on May 10, 2011 20:53:16 GMT
sharpening isn't that hard but you definitely can destroy a sword with a badly botched attempt. the thing is, if you go slow and pay attention to what you are doing there's no reason you SHOULD ruin it. it is very easy to avoid destroying your sword.
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