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Post by Federico on Nov 18, 2010 23:10:28 GMT
Here are the said videos. Cuts. Like I said, I'm having some trouble going all the way through. I don't have the vids with the windlass yet, but it was really easy to get through with it, and it's an average cutter. Thrusts. Not easy. The first one is what I'm talking about, where the blade gets stuck. I got the hang of it after (retrieve the blade AS SOON as it goes in). Notice how I botched the last cut  . |
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Post by LittleJP on Nov 19, 2010 1:26:42 GMT
It seems to me you're not really using your body enough to generate power.
It seems to work for me with this sword
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Post by Federico on Nov 19, 2010 4:07:12 GMT
I dunno, it could be, but compared to the other blades tested that night, it struggled. So OP, if you do decide to get the HT, do check the edges!
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ghost
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Post by ghost on Nov 19, 2010 4:38:56 GMT
Not that I have a lot of cutting experience but I'll try and give you a small bit of feedback. I'll try and number the cuts in the first vid Fed. Cut 1. It looks as if you are sliding left to right but cutting right to left. Not that I watch TomK overly much :? did that come off weird?, but I see most cuts swing in the same direction his body is moving. Cut 2. A little bit less, but again your body went right to left, but the cut went opposite - left to right. Also the cut seemed to be stopped by cutting into your stand. Cut 3. seemed pretty darn good. Cut 4. Your body did not torque as far as cut 3, foot is diagonal and ends at NW (your body went NW, blade went due E), while in Cut 3 your leading foot is ending at N. You are twisting your body to cut and seem to be following through, but a stronger cut would be to move your body in the direction of the cut. I don't see anything wrong with a cut moving away from the direction of your body - in fact they remind me more of parrying and blocking while sidestepping. The force of your body is moving to the right, but your blade is swinging left or vice-versa. (A bit will cancel out) I am thinking that rather than stepping forward to do an overhand downward slash, you may be doing something akin to stepping back while doing an overhand cut. Finally, you might be inadvertently holding back when using what you may think is a lighter/ flimsier blade. It looks like you held back a bit while cutting in the clips. I swing my vikings and DSAs like a madman but with my katanas and longswords I am more like a kitten. I hope I did not come off as overly critical. Like JP said, I think you need to throw out a little more strength behind your cuts if you are moving in the other direction -since you seem to be stepping away from your cuts rather than into them. edit: oh thought you appleseeded the HT's edge...also got my HT longsword blade Mon and thing is more of a chisel tip  |
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Post by chrisperoni on Nov 19, 2010 4:43:04 GMT
maybe envision the blade passing through the target? sometimes I find I'm picturing striking a target but not really thinking/imagining passing clean through it. Also, maybe you're cutting with too much tip? Find the node. take the sword, hold it straight up/point up with one hand & knock the pommel with the palm of your other hand- look for where the blade doesn't vibrate, somewhere at the top 1/3rd of the blade. Even better- hold the sword over a wood target and let the edge gently fall into the target starting from the tip- it'll bounce, but as you move down the blade it'll begin to bite- there's your node, the sweet spot for point of contact in cutting. If all this is old news to you, I apologize- just trying to help (& what the heck do I know anyway?   ) |
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Post by Federico on Nov 19, 2010 5:08:44 GMT
Guys GUYS!! This is interesting, but we have to stop, we're not helping OP here! I'd love to discuss this in another thread, but let's try to help this poor guy out! EDIT : here we go, viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1354, you may now critique my form outside of this thread |
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ghost
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Post by ghost on Nov 19, 2010 5:13:32 GMT
sorry sorry.
VA 304s then should do nicely though it is slightly over the price mentioned.
no need to spend hours to sharpen the blade properly. (HTs)
did I mention that the pommel on the HT longsword gives me nightmares?
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Nov 19, 2010 17:12:00 GMT
well there is the sharpness issue the H/T swords are well known for but also this particular sword is also designed to be a thruster as well and not a dedicated cutter like some other swords. and that is exactly what you want for traditional Italian or German longsword training, but for backyard cutting it may not be what a person prefers. now, I've seen videos of Shooter Mike cutting stuff up with the H/T longsword so I know it can cut well if used well but Mike is a step or 12 above the skill level of most of us so does it cut well for him because he is good or because it is a capable sword? I don't know, but I know Mike is good.
it really comes down to H/T longsword is a good sword but does need work from the owner to make it really shine. if you are a person who doesn't want to or is unable to work on a sword the H/T line may not be a good fit for you. the CS Italian longsword does look interesting but I have been pretty unimpressed with other Cold Steel swords so I am cautious about that one too. maybe it is a wonderful sword, we have one positive review here on site so maybe it is the next competitor.
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Post by mikeS on Nov 19, 2010 17:32:11 GMT
this works well when striking anything...with anything...sword on pumkin fist on bag sword on person etc etc GO THROUGH THE TARGET young one!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2010 11:23:39 GMT
wow i didnt expect that many replies ... well my budget isn't high so i can get together around 200usd... and yeah im looking for some good handling good starting sword(Longsword)... my experiences are low but you know with the sword ill learn quickly....hmmm i found a second one which is interesting www.sword-buyers-guide.com/Hanwe ... Sword.html |
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Nov 20, 2010 21:19:17 GMT
I really liked that sword. it needed to be sharpened a lot but it was an ok cutter even dull. the Hanwei Tinker line swords all seem to have the same issues and benefits: handle and perform great but need sharpening something serious and the grips are pretty thin with cheesy leather. still good swords though and for the price they are right now a great deal
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Sean (Shadowhowler)
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Post by Sean (Shadowhowler) on Nov 21, 2010 1:09:52 GMT
Having had several versions of each... I can say yes, the 304 is much quicker and more nimble then the GSoW... but the GSoW is a strong, powerful cutter... and the larger grip lets you get more force on the blade with greater ease as well. I enjoyed them both, but the GSoW was better for me... it was my favorite of its type... until I saw the Austrian War Sword. 
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TomK
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Post by TomK on Nov 21, 2010 7:43:49 GMT
yeah hard to beat that Aus but then again even mentioning the GSOW in the same sentance as a sword 3X its price is a pretty serious compliment to the GSOW, especially when that sword is the AUS. that is par for the course with the H/T swords though, they perform on a level that is only normally seen on much more expensive swords. and that's why so many of us love them.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2010 11:16:05 GMT
ahhh I was looking for buying that sword but shipping costs 60 usd :/ did someone have an experience with some europian shop ?
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Post by Herr_Flick on Nov 21, 2010 15:32:21 GMT
I bought a sword from german swords and more: www.swords-and-more.com/shop1/in ... Path/6_113 No complains, but you don't really save any money unless you have to return the sword for some reason. |
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Post by Bogus on Nov 21, 2010 19:23:29 GMT
I'm assuming a big chunk of that shipping is the VAT, in which case they're going to get you one way or another.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2010 18:02:25 GMT
I don't own the VA longsword, so can't really comment on it. I do have the H/T Longsword, purchased from KOA during their mega sale a few months ago. It was about $60 less than the VA at the time, a contributing factor to my choosing it.
I have been collecting knives and swords and bayonets for many, many years. I like to think I know a little about steel ; in part based on the knowledge from this forum and others and my own experience. Heres some things I really like about the H/T Longsword:
1. This sword has a proper distal taper. It is extremely lively in the hands and very responsive when swinging at targets.
2. The threaded construction allows EASY dismantling and customization, if you choose. I hear about people who say their threaded sword's nut is coming loose, blah blah blah. Put some MEDIUM loctite on the damn thing, problem solved. Plus, if you must have a peened sword and yours has a threaded rod, cut it off and peen it! problem solved.
3. The extra-long handle (9 inches, not including threaded rod) means that if your threads strip, you can still hilt the damn thing and peen it. Extra steel is always a good thing, especially if you like customizing.
4. Did I mention the price? If anyone can design, forge, and hilt a sword the equal of this for the paltry $140 I paid I'd love to see them try.
Final analysis: I like the H/T Longsword. A lot. I also have to mention that these are manufactured under specifications produced by Tinker Pierce, not Hanwei. Hanwei creates these to Tinkers specs, not their own. The sword is not without issue though; I think the handle and guard are a little slim. The edge was sharpened, though needed some attention. Both the guard and pommel are made from some stainless cast, so you don't have to worry about rust on them for the most part. i like both blades a lot, but the H/T is the one I can comment on for now. I only buy a sword after an extreme amount of scrutiny and video watching. Check prices and read the reviews, they are solid gold and will save you money and hassle. Make sure you buy the sword you want, and make sure the sword want is the best one for you. Since your already looking at H'/T longsword and VA products, I think your on the right path already. Good luck and hope this helps!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2010 17:04:28 GMT
interesting mate...thats exactly whad i needed to hear but little last questin because im newbie i want ask you about differences between Tinker Bastard Sword AND Tinker Longsword thanks |
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Post by Bogus on Nov 27, 2010 1:16:59 GMT
Long sword is long Basically that's about it...a bastard sword is designed for one or two handed use, and length and weight wise falls in between a one-handed arming sword and a one or two handed longsword. AFAIK both of these swords will handle well either way. |
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Nov 27, 2010 1:31:27 GMT
Bastard sword is shorter, lighter, and likely faster, and should be the better cutter of the two, as it's a Cut 'n' thrust sword. It has a hand and a half grip of 7". I have used this sword a decent amount, and I love it. It's probably my favorite handling sword I've ever used, including 2 Atrims. It even cut pretty well, though the particular one I used had a touched-up edge.
The Longsword is longer, has a full 9" two handed grip, and is a dedicated thrusting sword with mediocre cutting ability. The longsword is perfectly suited to German and Italian longsword, from what I've heard, but is not quite a backyard cutter's dream sword, lol. It's still a fantastic sword, but I don't know too much about it never having used the model myself, so all I can do is relate the experiences of others.
I hope this helps!
-Slayer
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