How to: build a modular cutting stand
Oct 3, 2010 3:48:20 GMT
Post by chrisperoni on Oct 3, 2010 3:48:20 GMT
(I brought this over from the old forum- this time I posted here in backyard cutting but if anyone thinks it should go somewhere else, then of course please move it wherever is more appropriate)
Freestanding Modular Cutting Stand
After hacking my new cutting stand with a weak attempt at a side cut, I had to fix it back up. I decided to make it even better this time-and remember you can take a typical stand and modify it to incorporate my additions. Enjoy!
TOOLS REQUIRED:
-TABLE SAW- not needed if you can get the wood cut to size at the hardware store but you will at least need some kind of saw for cutting the dowel- in this case at least a
HAND SAW will be required instead
-POWER DRILL and drill bits sized 3/32", 5/16"- spade bit sized 1.25" and at least 9" long, I used an extension rod- appropriate screwdriver bit(s). (I also used spade bits sized 1/2" and 7/8" but you might be able to get by without these)
-MEASURING TAPE
-WOOD GLUE
-SANDPAPER- I used 60 grit- really any kind will do
(but I wouldn't go with the 2000 grit used for polishing
)
SUPPLIES:
-3.5"x3.5" wood post cut to 3' height
-1.5"x1.5"x8' wood beam cut into four 2' length legs
-3/4" thick wood plank cut to 11"x12" rectangle tabletop
-3/4" thick wood plank cut to 3.5"x12" rectangle tabletop
-4'x1.25" diameter dowel
-5/16" diameter dowel 9" long
-Eight 3.5" long screws- the kind used for roofing/building decks
-4 to 8 3/4" screws- the wider the better
The wood dimensions given are what I went with but are open to your own preferences. Remember the dowel diameters are matched to drill bit/spade size. You might also prefer to use pressure treated wood. My suggestion for supplies is to first check the odds and ends scrap for sale at the hardware store. For example I was able to find my legs already cut and at half price. On top of this I ended up reusing my old cutting post (again), and found a leftover piece of shelving for the plank. I like to try to reuse and recycle wood as much as possible and only buy new if I have to.
BUILD:
(If not already done at the hardware store)
Measure and cut the plank, legs, and post. Make sure to have level and squared ends on the post:
Dry assemble the legs around the post as such:
Mark legs for wood screws. When doing this consider how each screw will sit once inside the post and legs. Offset each screw so that they will not run into each other, as shown below:
Drill pilot holes using 3/32" drill bit and drill countersinks using 5/16" bit:
As for the next part you might like to take a bunch of measurements and continue drilling pilot holes into the ends of each leg and into the post, but I went at it a different way which I find is quicker and acceptable on rough and ready jobs like this.
Drive in the 3.5" screws so they are just coming through the other side:
Align the first leg against the base of the post and use the screws to mark where to drill a pilot hole in the post:
You can use the outside edge of the next leg to get the alignment right (the next is the leg to the left, not shown in the above photo). Drill the pilot hole and drive the first leg into the post. Give the post a quarter turn counterclockwise and use the next leg to mark the post and first leg:
Drill pilot holes and drive in next 2 screws. Repeat for the third leg. The final leg is a bit trickier to align so be careful and consider how the alignment is affected by the protruding screws. After drilling the final pilot holes and setting the last leg in place you have finished assembling a basic sword stand that is functional and can placed where you like:
MODIFICATIONS / MODULAR PARTS
Mark the center of the top of the post by drawing a line from one corner to the opposite and repeating with the other corners. Here is where you will drill the main post hole.
It is important to be as straight as possible when drilling the post hole. Even a very small angle at the start of this drilling can result in a ruined post.
First carefully drill a pilot hole as deep as you can using the 3/32" bit. Next use the 1.25" spade bit to bore down through the post; for now go at least a full inch deep with the 1.25" spade:
This sets the proper diameter for the rest of the drilling and ensures an accurate hole will be maintained even if subsequent drilling is off center. I ended up with a final depth of 9.5"- keep in mind the deeper you go the more adjustable your tabletops will be when finished. This is also the reason to wait to cut the larger dowel to length. When cutting out the center of the post with the 1.25" spade you might have to go slowly, might want to use the 1/2” and 7/8” spades (or whatever is handy) to clear out the post in stages, and you will certainly want to empty the sawdust often:
Now you should be able to drop the 1.25" dowel into the post. If the fit is a bit tight use the spade and drill/wiggle it around to widen the hole, and/or sand the dowel a little at a time so it slides in smoothly. Be sure not to make the hole too wide or the dowel too thin though. Once the dowel can go in the post mark the depth on the dowel:
Measure this length of the dowel and use this measurement to mark on the side of the post the depth the dowel reaches. (It might be slightly less than you drilled):
Measure to the center of the post hole and use this measurement to determine the same center on the side of the post:
Mark a point approximately 1/2" above the dowel depth and in the center of the hole. With the dowel held firmly in the post drill through the first side of the post, the dowel, then the other side of the post using the 5/16" bit. Now the smaller 5/16" dowel can run through the post and larger dowel, securing the dowel in place:
Now repeat this at desired heights on the post to allow for an adjustable height table…except when making the rest of the 5/16" holes in the post do not begin with the larger dowel in the post hole. Drill through only one side of the post:
Place the larger dowel in and without drilling align the bit through the existing hole in the dowel, then drill the other side of the post. Keep in mind that unless you've drilled everything perfectly on center then the hole in the dowel will only line up correctly with the post one way. If it's not lined up right then give the dowel a half turn inside the post. I marked one side of the dowel with an 'X' and marked a matching 'X' on the post for quick reference of this. Other than some optional light sanding the stand itself is now all done:
(SIDENOTE: as I was typing this out an idea just sort of struck me. Don't know why I didn't think of it while making the tables- building stuff is like that- you get one idea in your head and just go with it. Anyway, instead of drilling holes through the tabletops and assembling as below, you can just trace the diameter of the dowel on the tabletop, drill pilot holes and drive 1.5" screws through the tabletop and into the dowel. Faster and easier…but whatever…here's how I built mine)
Take the 11"x12" tabletop, find its center and drill a hole through it using the 1.25" spade. If you have clamps on hand go ahead and use them- I didn't bother though- just be careful if holding the tabletop in place by hand. Keep a scrap piece of wood (or similar) under the tabletop to ensure a clean hole:
Run the dowel through this hole and set the dowel in place in the post. Mark for the tabletop and cut the dowel to length:
Apply glue to the dowel and tabletop hole. If the fit is a little loose mix some sawdust with the glue to give it more density. Spread this on first then another layer of straight glue:
Set the two parts together. Drill a countersink into the top of the dowel, drive a little 3/4" screw into the dowel and repeat until the dowel has been expanded and is fitting tight. For me it was the 3rd screw that gave me the tight fit I wanted- I could see a bit of glue being pressed out-that's basically what you're looking for. Wipe off excess glue:
(it has benn mentioned that these screws might cause damage to a sword if struck- an alternative would be to cut space for a wooden wedge into the dowel then hammer that in/ Or the screw could be removed after everything has set. Of course this step could even be skipped if the fit is tight enough to begin with.
edit/add: Since writing this I've decided to skip the screws and just drill only halfway through the tabletop instead of all the way through. Then I glue the two parts together. So far it seems to be sturdy enough and it removes the risk of hitting any screws with your sword. Like I said before, when I get an idea I just go with it...then afterwards I might come up with an alternative/better idea. That's just how it goes
another edit/add: Turns out this method of drilling halfway isn't sturdy enough if you are not so good with the swinging and hit the table, like I do. SO I'm going back to drilling all the way through but I'm going to forego the screws in favour of a tighter hole (ha!) and lots of glue. Also I might go ricwilly and duct tape the top as added reinforcement)
Repeat above steps for the 3.5"x12" tabletop including cutting and drilling a new length of dowel (you can see here it took 4 screws in the dowel):
DO NOT SET EITHER TABLETOP INTO THE POST YET. Wait for these to dry completely or you might pull them apart if they become wedged in the post. After drying you can sand everything smooth as required. For the tatami omote post just figure out how much dowel you want exposed and cut the dowel as desired, then drill the 5/16" hole as explained earlier. I went with 4" exposed:
Take the 5/16" dowel and (if not already done at the hardware store) cut it down to a manageable length. I chose 7" because it is enough to get a good grip without getting in the way, and leaves space to add a knob or handle if desired:
There you go! Now you have a standard cutting stand with a small surface/profile for cutting a single or smaller object. You can drop in a tabletop which gives you much more room for multiple or larger objects and provides varying heights. You can also attach a dowel for rolled mats, noodles and so on. I might even make another 3.5"x3.5" tabletop and a long inverted 'L' shaped arm for hanging objects…Good stuff all around:
Note- In the following pic I show the dowel I use for mats but I have not yet shaped a point onto it. It's much easier to jam the mat onto it once it's more of stake or spike.
Freestanding Modular Cutting Stand
After hacking my new cutting stand with a weak attempt at a side cut, I had to fix it back up. I decided to make it even better this time-and remember you can take a typical stand and modify it to incorporate my additions. Enjoy!
TOOLS REQUIRED:
-TABLE SAW- not needed if you can get the wood cut to size at the hardware store but you will at least need some kind of saw for cutting the dowel- in this case at least a
HAND SAW will be required instead
-POWER DRILL and drill bits sized 3/32", 5/16"- spade bit sized 1.25" and at least 9" long, I used an extension rod- appropriate screwdriver bit(s). (I also used spade bits sized 1/2" and 7/8" but you might be able to get by without these)
-MEASURING TAPE
-WOOD GLUE
-SANDPAPER- I used 60 grit- really any kind will do
(but I wouldn't go with the 2000 grit used for polishing
)SUPPLIES:
-3.5"x3.5" wood post cut to 3' height
-1.5"x1.5"x8' wood beam cut into four 2' length legs
-3/4" thick wood plank cut to 11"x12" rectangle tabletop
-3/4" thick wood plank cut to 3.5"x12" rectangle tabletop
-4'x1.25" diameter dowel
-5/16" diameter dowel 9" long
-Eight 3.5" long screws- the kind used for roofing/building decks
-4 to 8 3/4" screws- the wider the better
The wood dimensions given are what I went with but are open to your own preferences. Remember the dowel diameters are matched to drill bit/spade size. You might also prefer to use pressure treated wood. My suggestion for supplies is to first check the odds and ends scrap for sale at the hardware store. For example I was able to find my legs already cut and at half price. On top of this I ended up reusing my old cutting post (again), and found a leftover piece of shelving for the plank. I like to try to reuse and recycle wood as much as possible and only buy new if I have to.
BUILD:
(If not already done at the hardware store)
Measure and cut the plank, legs, and post. Make sure to have level and squared ends on the post:
Dry assemble the legs around the post as such:
Mark legs for wood screws. When doing this consider how each screw will sit once inside the post and legs. Offset each screw so that they will not run into each other, as shown below:
Drill pilot holes using 3/32" drill bit and drill countersinks using 5/16" bit:
As for the next part you might like to take a bunch of measurements and continue drilling pilot holes into the ends of each leg and into the post, but I went at it a different way which I find is quicker and acceptable on rough and ready jobs like this.
Drive in the 3.5" screws so they are just coming through the other side:
Align the first leg against the base of the post and use the screws to mark where to drill a pilot hole in the post:
You can use the outside edge of the next leg to get the alignment right (the next is the leg to the left, not shown in the above photo). Drill the pilot hole and drive the first leg into the post. Give the post a quarter turn counterclockwise and use the next leg to mark the post and first leg:
Drill pilot holes and drive in next 2 screws. Repeat for the third leg. The final leg is a bit trickier to align so be careful and consider how the alignment is affected by the protruding screws. After drilling the final pilot holes and setting the last leg in place you have finished assembling a basic sword stand that is functional and can placed where you like:
MODIFICATIONS / MODULAR PARTS
Mark the center of the top of the post by drawing a line from one corner to the opposite and repeating with the other corners. Here is where you will drill the main post hole.
It is important to be as straight as possible when drilling the post hole. Even a very small angle at the start of this drilling can result in a ruined post.
First carefully drill a pilot hole as deep as you can using the 3/32" bit. Next use the 1.25" spade bit to bore down through the post; for now go at least a full inch deep with the 1.25" spade:
This sets the proper diameter for the rest of the drilling and ensures an accurate hole will be maintained even if subsequent drilling is off center. I ended up with a final depth of 9.5"- keep in mind the deeper you go the more adjustable your tabletops will be when finished. This is also the reason to wait to cut the larger dowel to length. When cutting out the center of the post with the 1.25" spade you might have to go slowly, might want to use the 1/2” and 7/8” spades (or whatever is handy) to clear out the post in stages, and you will certainly want to empty the sawdust often:
Now you should be able to drop the 1.25" dowel into the post. If the fit is a bit tight use the spade and drill/wiggle it around to widen the hole, and/or sand the dowel a little at a time so it slides in smoothly. Be sure not to make the hole too wide or the dowel too thin though. Once the dowel can go in the post mark the depth on the dowel:
Measure this length of the dowel and use this measurement to mark on the side of the post the depth the dowel reaches. (It might be slightly less than you drilled):
Measure to the center of the post hole and use this measurement to determine the same center on the side of the post:
Mark a point approximately 1/2" above the dowel depth and in the center of the hole. With the dowel held firmly in the post drill through the first side of the post, the dowel, then the other side of the post using the 5/16" bit. Now the smaller 5/16" dowel can run through the post and larger dowel, securing the dowel in place:
Now repeat this at desired heights on the post to allow for an adjustable height table…except when making the rest of the 5/16" holes in the post do not begin with the larger dowel in the post hole. Drill through only one side of the post:
Place the larger dowel in and without drilling align the bit through the existing hole in the dowel, then drill the other side of the post. Keep in mind that unless you've drilled everything perfectly on center then the hole in the dowel will only line up correctly with the post one way. If it's not lined up right then give the dowel a half turn inside the post. I marked one side of the dowel with an 'X' and marked a matching 'X' on the post for quick reference of this. Other than some optional light sanding the stand itself is now all done:
(SIDENOTE: as I was typing this out an idea just sort of struck me. Don't know why I didn't think of it while making the tables- building stuff is like that- you get one idea in your head and just go with it. Anyway, instead of drilling holes through the tabletops and assembling as below, you can just trace the diameter of the dowel on the tabletop, drill pilot holes and drive 1.5" screws through the tabletop and into the dowel. Faster and easier…but whatever…here's how I built mine)
Take the 11"x12" tabletop, find its center and drill a hole through it using the 1.25" spade. If you have clamps on hand go ahead and use them- I didn't bother though- just be careful if holding the tabletop in place by hand. Keep a scrap piece of wood (or similar) under the tabletop to ensure a clean hole:
Run the dowel through this hole and set the dowel in place in the post. Mark for the tabletop and cut the dowel to length:
Apply glue to the dowel and tabletop hole. If the fit is a little loose mix some sawdust with the glue to give it more density. Spread this on first then another layer of straight glue:
Set the two parts together. Drill a countersink into the top of the dowel, drive a little 3/4" screw into the dowel and repeat until the dowel has been expanded and is fitting tight. For me it was the 3rd screw that gave me the tight fit I wanted- I could see a bit of glue being pressed out-that's basically what you're looking for. Wipe off excess glue:
(it has benn mentioned that these screws might cause damage to a sword if struck- an alternative would be to cut space for a wooden wedge into the dowel then hammer that in/ Or the screw could be removed after everything has set. Of course this step could even be skipped if the fit is tight enough to begin with.
edit/add: Since writing this I've decided to skip the screws and just drill only halfway through the tabletop instead of all the way through. Then I glue the two parts together. So far it seems to be sturdy enough and it removes the risk of hitting any screws with your sword. Like I said before, when I get an idea I just go with it...then afterwards I might come up with an alternative/better idea. That's just how it goes
another edit/add: Turns out this method of drilling halfway isn't sturdy enough if you are not so good with the swinging and hit the table, like I do. SO I'm going back to drilling all the way through but I'm going to forego the screws in favour of a tighter hole (ha!) and lots of glue. Also I might go ricwilly and duct tape the top as added reinforcement)
Repeat above steps for the 3.5"x12" tabletop including cutting and drilling a new length of dowel (you can see here it took 4 screws in the dowel):
DO NOT SET EITHER TABLETOP INTO THE POST YET. Wait for these to dry completely or you might pull them apart if they become wedged in the post. After drying you can sand everything smooth as required. For the tatami omote post just figure out how much dowel you want exposed and cut the dowel as desired, then drill the 5/16" hole as explained earlier. I went with 4" exposed:
Take the 5/16" dowel and (if not already done at the hardware store) cut it down to a manageable length. I chose 7" because it is enough to get a good grip without getting in the way, and leaves space to add a knob or handle if desired:
There you go! Now you have a standard cutting stand with a small surface/profile for cutting a single or smaller object. You can drop in a tabletop which gives you much more room for multiple or larger objects and provides varying heights. You can also attach a dowel for rolled mats, noodles and so on. I might even make another 3.5"x3.5" tabletop and a long inverted 'L' shaped arm for hanging objects…Good stuff all around:
Note- In the following pic I show the dowel I use for mats but I have not yet shaped a point onto it. It's much easier to jam the mat onto it once it's more of stake or spike.
