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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2010 13:48:23 GMT
I picked up a Hanwei Lionheart at the local Medieval Faire yesterday, and I love it.
Problem is that the factory edge on it is...... kinda wussy. It won't cut basically anything.
I've looked at the methods for sharpening listed, and I'm wondering which one I could use. I don't have many tools to work with, and my whetstone is maybe an inch by 2.5 inches, came free with my kukri in a little plastic sheath on the scabbard.
-Cheers, Herobane
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2010 13:54:49 GMT
Ive used the method advocated by Tom in this video /index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=7799. the only thing I do differently is I clamp the sword blade down and use a sanding block. It does take a long time to do a good job, and you have to be patient. but you do get a lovely apple seed edge and a lovely polished finish to the blade, and with a bit of practice get a razor sharp edge.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2010 15:58:38 GMT
Ive used the method advocated by Tom in this video /index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=7799. the only thing I do differently is I clamp the sword blade down and use a sanding block. It does take a long time to do a good job, and you have to be patient. but you do get a lovely apple seed edge and a lovely polished finish to the blade, and with a bit of practice get a razor sharp edge. Hmmm. What do you mean by appleseed edge? And what's a sanding block? You're looking at a guy who never took shop class...
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2010 16:27:18 GMT
Ive done you a quick digram below, if you can imagine a cross section of the edge of your sword most cheaper swords come with a secondary bevel, basically where an edge has been added to the sword, higher end sword have an apple seed edge which is basically a convex edge. a sanding block is just a block that you can wrap the sandpaper round, it makes sanding easier
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2010 18:10:19 GMT
You can get a sanding block at an auto parts retailer, or make one of your own. There are several places on the internet that explain what to use to make a homemade one from.
Email or PM TomK and ask him what he recommends for you to use, or if he has a preference as to which one to get or make.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2010 18:25:56 GMT
Herobane: From the sheer volume of swords you've been purchasing, I'm going to make the assumption that you are not strapped for cash. With that being said, this is what I think you should do.
First, learn how to sharpen and shape by hand. Go grab some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and I use a drywall hand sander to hold my paper
Then find a way to secure your sword to a solid object, like a table or a 2"x4" piece of wood. When you look at the edge of the blade, you should be able to see that sharp change of angle where your secondary edge is. At this step, you'll want to try and knock that ridge down, then keep smoothing it out. If you need more clarification on this, let me know.
But after you've learned to sharpen by hand, then I'd suggest you drop $30 buck on the belt sander that Tom is using in his video, and then do the same thing that you did by hand, only 10x faster.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Sept 19, 2010 20:14:33 GMT
I like to clamp the blade down lately too. here's a newer video talking about how to sharpen a clamped blade.
with the Hanwei European swords what you really need to start with is a good file. use that to blend your secondary bevel into a nicely shaped edge. you should only put an apple-seed shaped edge on a sword that SHOULD have an apple-seed shaped edge. in other words it is good for katana and European swords of types X-XIV in most cases but a sword with a flattened diamond geometry, especially one that is hollow ground probably doesn't want that. note: there are some swords with complex edge geometries that roll from hollow ground to convex etc. but these are pretty tricky. I basically just continue the geometry of the blade (whatever it has) smoothly until it meets at a sharp and clean edge. that's the basic rule of edge geometry.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2010 1:33:47 GMT
Herobane: From the sheer volume of swords you've been purchasing, I'm going to make the assumption that you are not strapped for cash. With that being said, this is what I think you should do. First, learn how to sharpen and shape by hand. Go grab some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and I use a drywall hand sander to hold my paper Then find a way to secure your sword to a solid object, like a table or a 2"x4" piece of wood. When you look at the edge of the blade, you should be able to see that sharp change of angle where your secondary edge is. At this step, you'll want to try and knock that ridge down, then keep smoothing it out. If you need more clarification on this, let me know. But after you've learned to sharpen by hand, then I'd suggest you drop $30 buck on the belt sander that Tom is using in his video, and then do the same thing that you did by hand, only 10x faster. It's not that I'm not strapped for cash, it's that I'm a financial idiot Good advice though. I like to clamp the blade down lately too. here's a newer video talking about how to sharpen a clamped blade. with the Hanwei European swords what you really need to start with is a good file. use that to blend your secondary bevel into a nicely shaped edge. you should only put an apple-seed shaped edge on a sword that SHOULD have an apple-seed shaped edge. in other words it is good for katana and European swords of types X-XIV in most cases but a sword with a flattened diamond geometry, especially one that is hollow ground probably doesn't want that. note: there are some swords with complex edge geometries that roll from hollow ground to convex etc. but these are pretty tricky. I basically just continue the geometry of the blade (whatever it has) smoothly until it meets at a sharp and clean edge. that's the basic rule of edge geometry. Thanks! +1 for Greg, Tom, and KingRat!
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