Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2010 2:55:13 GMT
Since the old threads gone, figured I'd start a new one.
Anyone own or handled one of these?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2010 3:00:49 GMT
I am leary of the Hilt/pommel being part of the whole blade/forging, just my opinion...SanMarc.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2010 5:52:41 GMT
I think its a very expensive gimmick ............ and its probably that expensive because its all one piece which I just dont see the point of, just having it traditionally constructed with a pattern welded blade but blued steel fittings would of been like 200.00 cheaper. The scabbard looks nice but jeez this first came out like in the 90's ........ things have just moved on so much these days Hanwei should do some catching up besides the scabbard fittings being unique its nothing special. For their Euro side I really think they need to contract someone out of the community to do big studies into the current market realities, trends, at least a five year futures projection and just get them towards redesigning. I remember one reason they put those weak thin smallsword like blades on their rapiers was because "customers wanted lighter, nimble blades" ........ Mostly because no one knew how a real rapier felt, handled and was supposed to be used ........... They all wanted Inigo Montoya rather then historic. Aaaahhhhhh yeah did I mention its expensive ........ oh if someone gave me one as a present I would treasure it and say "best sword I have currently" .......... but yeah wouldnt pay that much for it. The godfreds a bit of a better bet, besides the weird job on the peen assembley its not bad.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2010 9:59:06 GMT
Godfreds are threaded, not peened, I had one, it came loose so I know.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2010 15:04:12 GMT
I was able to handle a Trondheim at the KOA showroom the other day. It's little. Seriously, it's barely 30" long, and it's thin. Compared to all the other Viking toys there, it looked like a nail file. It was also pretty neutrally balanced, for whatever that's worth. The whole one-piece thing is neato, but taken as a whole, I wouldn't spend 600+ on it. If you want a good Viking sword with fancy doodads, pick up a VA Hedemark, or get an H/T Viking and send it to Sonny. Or just find yourself a Godfred.
|
|
|
Post by torawashi on Apr 24, 2010 23:06:51 GMT
Godfreds are threaded, not peened, I had one, it came loose so I know. I have a Godfred....verrry nice sword; yes the pommel is threaded but have never had any problems or looseness. I would love to know how people cause sturdily built swords to come apart... Jim
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2010 1:37:46 GMT
Threaded pommels are a thing now, in the world of sword production I think we should be moving away from them ....... and I dont mean hex nut of course they are top notch
|
|
|
Post by Kilted Cossack on Apr 25, 2010 1:52:48 GMT
Threaded pommels are a thing now, in the world of sword production I think we should be moving away from them ....... and I dont mean hex nut of course they are top notch Brissy: How bad ARE they? Threaded pommels, I mean? Whenever I try to think about it, it seems that a well-done threaded pommel should be a pretty good thing. I'm assuming, here, a solid pommel, and a real tang, which is reduced and threaded. Please to note! I'm not being a jerk, although frequently I come across that way (or have in the past). This question is asked sincerely. Is it an issue of the threaded pommel itself, or the execution? When I think about a good threaded pommel screwed onto a good solid tang, it seems to me that it would provide a good bit more metal-to-metal contact and lock-up than a peen would, but I freely admit I could be wrong as genocide.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2010 2:07:45 GMT
How bad ARE they? Threaded pommels, I mean? Whenever I try to think about it, it seems that a well-done threaded pommel should be a pretty good thing. I'm assuming, here, a solid pommel, and a real tang, which is reduced and threaded. Please to note! I'm not being a jerk, although frequently I come across that way (or have in the past). This question is asked sincerely. Is it an issue of the threaded pommel itself, or the execution? When I think about a good threaded pommel screwed onto a good solid tang, it seems to me that it would provide a good bit more metal-to-metal contact and lock-up than a peen would, but I freely admit I could be wrong as genocide. I think Tinker once mentioned that hex nut type assemblies can be just as good as peened ones in regards to sturdiness and structural integrity. I think the exact wording used was "metal-to-metal contact" too. Hex nut assemblies are easier to do maintenance too. The only down side is they come loose faster than peened assemblies and need to be done right soon that retightening does not eventually result in the tang breaking.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2010 12:04:44 GMT
Yeah hex nut is just as good to be sure, and threaded's are meh ........ I'm just saying its like air bags and abs were once expensive features and now because of market survivability they are standard .......... just saying good peens or hex nuts should become standards across the ranges of euro's.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2010 14:12:45 GMT
Godfreds are threaded, not peened, I had one, it came loose so I know. I have a Godfred....verrry nice sword; yes the pommel is threaded but have never had any problems or looseness. I would love to know how people cause sturdily built swords to come apart... Jim Mine was unfortunately not sturdily built, it got loose and got a crack in the blade with just a bit of light cutting...
|
|
|
Post by torawashi on Apr 25, 2010 20:15:45 GMT
I have a Godfred....verrry nice sword; yes the pommel is threaded but have never had any problems or looseness. I would love to know how people cause sturdily built swords to come apart... Jim Mine was unfortunately not sturdily built, it got loose and got a crack in the blade with just a bit of light cutting... Luka; sorry to hear about your unfortunate experience with the Godfred. Maybe you you were unlucky enough to get a "lemon". I have never had any issues with mine, although I am strictly a collector as opposed to a collector/cutter. I have recently purchased the H/T "9th Century Viking Sword" and it's a dandy. It was designed as a practical cutter but also has an historically correct hilt and type X blade. And the pommel is peened. Maybe that would serve your needs better. Jim
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2010 21:41:19 GMT
Mine was unfortunately not sturdily built, it got loose and got a crack in the blade with just a bit of light cutting... Luka; sorry to hear about your unfortunate experience with the Godfred. Maybe you you were unlucky enough to get a "lemon". I have never had any issues with mine, although I am strictly a collector as opposed to a collector/cutter. I have recently purchased the H/T "9th Century Viking Sword" and it's a dandy. It was designed as a practical cutter but also has an historically correct hilt and type X blade. And the pommel is peened. Maybe that would serve your needs better. Jim It probably was a lemon. And you are right about H/T Viking, I do have one and it serves me very well. I like it so much that I ordered a custom hilt more to my liking for it because it's a great blade but I like type H hilts more than type E hilt it has.
|
|
|
Post by torawashi on Apr 26, 2010 0:20:15 GMT
Luka; sorry to hear about your unfortunate experience with the Godfred. Maybe you you were unlucky enough to get a "lemon". I have never had any issues with mine, although I am strictly a collector as opposed to a collector/cutter. I have recently purchased the H/T "9th Century Viking Sword" and it's a dandy. It was designed as a practical cutter but also has an historically correct hilt and type X blade. And the pommel is peened. Maybe that would serve your needs better. Jim It probably was a lemon. And you are right about H/T Viking, I do have one and it serves me very well. I like it so much that I ordered a custom hilt more to my liking for it because it's a great blade but I like type H hilts more than type E hilt it has. Aaaah that's music to my ears......glad to hear you like the sword. I also have the H/T Norman sword which has a very similar blade and the style A pommel and type 1 cross. It's also very well balanced and designed for cutting. bought both swords together in a fantastic deal from KOA. Jim
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2010 4:12:30 GMT
Thanks, Pete. I was mostly curious. I got the H/T Viking and it is a fabulous sword. It reawakened my interest in Viking swords and I'm considering picking up another. Right now I'm thinking of either the Godfred or the Gen2 8th C. (or maybe the Windlass Sticklestad).
|
|
|
Post by shadowhowler on Apr 26, 2010 4:54:32 GMT
I have never had any issues with mine, although I am strictly a collector as opposed to a collector/cutter. If I may... if you don't actually USE your swords, then you have really no idea how sturdy/well built they are or are not. You will really only find out buy using them as they were ment to be used... as swords, to cut stuff. Anything can seem well built if all it does is hang on your wall. In regards to the Hanwei Godfred... I really, REALLY like the look of the sword... but Luka is NOT the first person I have heard to have problems with them. MANY people have reposted problems with the Godfred swords, and many have had good ones, but its about 50/50. Thats NOT a good track record for a sword in my book. A damn shame too... cuz its so pretty and light and feels great in the hand... I want one, but I don't trust it to do what a sword is supposed to do... and I don't collect anything I can't use. In regards to threaded pommels... if done well they can be decent... but more often they are NOT done well. I won't even consider a threaded pommel sword unless the pommel is perfectly symetrical. Why? If the come lose (And if you use your swords, almost all of them do) its a pain to get them flush with the guard again if they are shaped in such a way that they are not the same on all sides. A sword with a pommel sticking off by 30 degrees looks stupid. This is not a problem for the hex nut, because the thread is INSIDE the pommel... so the pommel can be of any shape and when it comes lose you can tighten and the pommel will still be flush with the guard. As for the Hanwei Trondheim... looks like it can be found for around 450... its very pretty... and REALLY short! Only 24 inch blade? I'd have to handle one to give an opinion, but I'd bet money it comes out of the box with a less the cutting sharp edge. At that Price I might be more likely to send a H/T to Sonny's CSS and have him work some magic on it... but my opinion could change if I had the Trondheim in hand, a LOT depends on feel. It is pretty IMO.
|
|
|
Post by nschiff on Apr 26, 2010 6:00:15 GMT
I have handled the Trondheim and, while being very impressed with the balance and feel of it, and especially the one-piece forging, it is just TOO short. It's a beautiful piece, but the size just doesn't seem right when you look at it...it's perfectly proportioned, just like 7/10 scale to a real viking. If you could close your eyes and pretend it's just a short sword while holding it, you would probably be very happy .
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2010 18:29:09 GMT
One man's "too short" is another man's "just right". I love the look of the trondheim, forged from a single piece makes a blade exceptionally strong and the leather work looks stunning. I've been tempted but never wanted to pay the full price for it, I remember when it was $700, that isn't worth it, for $300 I'd probably take the risk.
|
|
|
Post by shadowhowler on Apr 26, 2010 21:41:27 GMT
One man's "too short" is another man's "just right". I love the look of the trondheim, forged from a single piece makes a blade exceptionally strong and the leather work looks stunning. I've been tempted but never wanted to pay the full price for it, I remember when it was $700, that isn't worth it, for $300 I'd probably take the risk. Yeh... we do love our short swords, you and I. ;D Its at 450 now so its on its way to your 300.
|
|
|
Post by torawashi on Apr 26, 2010 23:42:32 GMT
I have never had any issues with mine, although I am strictly a collector as opposed to a collector/cutter. If I may... if you don't actually USE your swords, then you have really no idea how sturdy/well built they are or are not. You will really only find out buy using them as they were ment to be used... as swords, to cut stuff. Anything can seem well built if all it does is hang on your wall. In regards to the Hanwei Godfred... I really, REALLY like the look of the sword... but Luka is NOT the first person I have heard to have problems with them. MANY people have reposted problems with the Godfred swords, and many have had good ones, but its about 50/50. Thats NOT a good track record for a sword in my book. A damn shame too... cuz its so pretty and light and feels great in the hand... I want one, but I don't trust it to do what a sword is supposed to do... and I don't collect anything I can't use. In regards to threaded pommels... if done well they can be decent... but more often they are NOT done well. I won't even consider a threaded pommel sword unless the pommel is perfectly symetrical. Why? If the come lose (And if you use your swords, almost all of them do) its a pain to get them flush with the guard again if they are shaped in such a way that they are not the same on all sides. A sword with a pommel sticking off by 30 degrees looks stupid. This is not a problem for the hex nut, because the thread is INSIDE the pommel... so the pommel can be of any shape and when it comes lose you can tighten and the pommel will still be flush with the guard. As for the Hanwei Trondheim... looks like it can be found for around 450... its very pretty... and REALLY short! Only 24 inch blade? I'd have to handle one to give an opinion, but I'd bet money it comes out of the box with a less the cutting sharp edge. At that Price I might be more likely to send a H/T to Sonny's CSS and have him work some magic on it... but my opinion could change if I had the Trondheim in hand, a LOT depends on feel. It is pretty IMO. Shadow; you are absolutely correct.....I don't cut with my swords even though every single one of them is "battle ready" and sharp. as I have posted elsewhere on the forum, that is an essential requirement for me. I can't afford "museum originals" or I would be collecting those and I don't think that the people who do would ever cut with one, and those swords were made for battle too. I am a former "backyard cutter" and it's an enjoyable pastime, lotsa fun, but i don't feel the need to cut in order to enjoy my swords. That's one reason I belong to a sword forum. You've just told me that there have been problems with the Godfred, that's good information. I have swords with peened pommels, pommel nuts, and threaded pommels, and i'll betcha I can tell you without ever cutting with them, which ones I can absolutely rely on and which ones might be a little shaky. of course cutting is a good way to test a sword. paying attention to information from others is another good way. A good "fully functional" sword can be appreciated without cutting with it. For those who love to cut, I say "Go For It"!! Jim
|
|