Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 22:25:25 GMT
Yes, sewing machine oil is nothing more than "light" mineral oil.
You can make the thick laxative mineral oil into a thinner version of itself, but it's a very time consuming process involving distilled water and a double boiler. I'm not even sure I can remember it right. years ago when I was an army mechanic a guy entered our unit who had a degree in biochemistry. He taught me the process after he saw my knife collection, but it's been years since I tried it. Easier to go buy sewing machine oil, or just use the thicker stuff since I use the same oil for preservation and honing.
|
|
|
Post by chrisosborne on Mar 8, 2010 21:16:29 GMT
Singer sewing machine oil. It's a high grade, light mineral oil. Available at most stores like wal-mart, nice convenient sized bottle and only $1.88 last time I bought some.
And Midori brought up a great point. The uchiko in most kits belongs in the trash can. For production swords and even most customs, the 91% alcohol is the way to go for cleaning the blade. It's far superior in it's cleaning ability and will never scratch your sword if you use good soft towels.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2010 14:43:37 GMT
The big problem with gun oil is it soaks into the wood. Yes it has distillates but they evaporate immediately ( a design feature). I use silicon spray - have been using it on my workworking equpment for years. Leaves no residue and is protects amazingly well. For powders to clean with - use Bonami - very fine powder, polishes and does not scratch. Also plain white paper has the same grit as 1400 sand paper - food for thought. On sharpening knifes, I use liquid soap instead of oil. Once done sharpening I rinse off the stone with water to clean the pores. Works amazingly well.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2010 4:24:14 GMT
On sharpening knifes, I use liquid soap instead of oil. Once done sharpening I rinse off the stone with water to clean the pores. Works amazingly well. I'll have to try that, I hate useing oil because it gunks up my stones. I generally dry sharpen, but this sounds good.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2010 22:22:51 GMT
Nice info guy thanks so much. I just went out and got a container of 3in1 at the Ace hardware store. Seems a tad thick but easily enough wiped down to a nice thin coat to leave on the blade. Not the most pleasing aroma, but it kind of reminds me of the days working on cars. LOL Good to know about the powder balls, especially the talc ones found in cheap kits. We have a huge bottle of rubbing alcohol at home, so now I know what to use to clean the blade before re applying oil.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2010 18:59:40 GMT
Greg, Fleece-lined scabbards are meant to hold oil--if you set them up properly, the fleece will be nearly saturated with oil and automatically oil and clean your sword every time you sheath it, so that you have to physically oil them far far far less often. Fancy stuff. they used wool back in the day, or fur... good stuff. I think DBK still does them with wool, but he can put some fur in it if you want (typically the fur would go to about 1/4 of the scabbard, so it wouldn't get too clucked up... edit: ACE Hardware is that real? (you know, that's where the coyote would buy his equipment against roadrunner)
|
|
|
Post by YlliwCir on Mar 13, 2010 20:53:07 GMT
Greg, Fleece-lined scabbards are meant to hold oil--if you set them up properly, the fleece will be nearly saturated with oil and automatically oil and clean your sword every time you sheath it, so that you have to physically oil them far far far less often. Fancy stuff. they used wool back in the day, or fur... good stuff. I think DBK still does them with wool, but he can put some fur in it if you want (typically the fur would go to about 1/4 of the scabbard, so it wouldn't get too clucked up... edit: ACE Hardware is that real? (you know, that's where the coyote would buy his equipment against roadrunner) Yep, Ace is a place for real. Wile E. shopped at ACME. I use silicone spray from Wal-Mart.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2010 23:33:45 GMT
edit: ACE Hardware is that real? (you know, that's where the coyote would buy his equipment against roadrunner)[/quote] Actually Wil E. bought his stuff from Acme. I had a lot of stock in Acme until Warner Bros stopped making new Roadrunner cartoons. Without the Coyote's frequent purchases, Acme went belly up. This economy is tough on everyone. ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2010 6:19:27 GMT
If you live in Australia you can get paraffin B.P. from the chemist for about $5 a bottle. Some else suggested paraffin oil but I've never used it so I hope I got the right stuff.
|
|
|
Post by wiwingti on Mar 14, 2010 6:25:16 GMT
sorry guys but i do not understand why people are looking to find some(cheap mineral oil) when mineral oil cost almost nothing at the (meat store)or grocery in the meat department or in a litle butcher's place
just ask to talk to the manager and ask him if he can order some for you,or sell some to you.
ok, i know the guy here but i paid 10.00 for a 4 liters of mineral oil
so why would i look to find some cheaper?
do like me and ask in the meat stores guys you know what i mean by meat store? don't know how to call it.
|
|
|
Post by YlliwCir on Mar 14, 2010 17:47:14 GMT
For me it's not the price, Marc. I find the silicone spray easier and neater to use.
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Mar 14, 2010 18:22:21 GMT
For me it's not the price, Marc. I find the silicone spray easier and neater to use. Only reason not to use Silicone spray is a high end piece that may get a traditional polish one day... other than that ,,, spray away... I do.. It is a GOD-send for the multiple sword owner...
|
|
|
Post by shadowhowler on Mar 14, 2010 18:55:43 GMT
For me it's not the price, Marc. I find the silicone spray easier and neater to use. Only reason not to use Silicone spray is a high end piece that may get a traditional polish one day... other than that ,,, spray away... I do.. It is a GOD-send for the multiple sword owner... What is this 'silicone spray' and how do you apply it? Currently, I clean my blades after use with WD-40 and I use a light coating of 3-in-1 oil for storage.
|
|
|
Post by wiwingti on Mar 14, 2010 18:56:44 GMT
i wasan't talking about that spay Rick,, it is the thread itself(cheap mineral oil) lol
because myself, i would, maybe, use the spay if it is so easy man , depending of the blades i would use it on.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2010 19:00:23 GMT
For me it's not the price, Marc. I find the silicone spray easier and neater to use. Only reason not to use Silicone spray is a high end piece that may get a traditional polish one day... other than that ,,, spray away... I do.. It is a GOD-send for the multiple sword owner... why, does silicone spray damage the polish?
|
|
|
Post by sicheah on Mar 14, 2010 19:01:58 GMT
I would not recommend using spray on Japanese swords man because they are hard to remove, especially on forge-folded blades lol, unless it will not go through traditional polish or hybrid polish.
Anyway a bottle of mineral oil should last a really really long time lol so if you could afford swords maintenance cost is very minimal....except a few minutes of every few weeks of your time of course.
Edit: Well silicone does not damage the polish, it is just very difficult to remove it away completely if you need to do any repolishing. This is especially true for folded blades because the steel grain is not exactly smooth.
Edit: There is an additional benefit to silicone spray, it does not attract dust like mineral oil on blade. Before applying make sure the blade is completely dry, spray some on a cloth and wipe a thin layer on blade.
|
|
|
Post by YlliwCir on Mar 14, 2010 21:47:15 GMT
Only reason not to use Silicone spray is a high end piece that may get a traditional polish one day... other than that ,,, spray away... I do.. It is a GOD-send for the multiple sword owner... What is this 'silicone spray' and how do you apply it? Currently, I clean my blades after use with WD-40 and I use a light coating of 3-in-1 oil for storage. I use CRC Heavy duty silicone. I get it at Wal-Mart for a couple bucks a can. I either spray the silicone into a baggie containing a rag then wipe down the blade or if I'm in a hurry or feeling lazy, most times, I spray directly onto the blade and wipe it down with a rag. I clean the blades with mineral spirits and or Nevr-dull (depending on how gnarly I get em). I have had no adverse effects that I can detect, tho my blades tend to get a bit roughed up so the finish is of no concern to me.
|
|
Marc Ridgeway
Member
Retired Global Moderator
"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
Posts: 3,122
|
Post by Marc Ridgeway on Mar 14, 2010 23:40:22 GMT
Silicone coats the blade and gets in th epores and folds... etc. and can bugger up efforts to stonepolish it... that said... production katana... no problem. Only reason not to use Silicone spray is a high end piece that may get a traditional polish one day... other than that ,,, spray away... I do.. It is a GOD-send for the multiple sword owner... What is this 'silicone spray' and how do you apply it? Currently, I clean my blades after use with WD-40 and I use a light coating of 3-in-1 oil for storage. I clean with mothers mag polish ... or Flitz ... or similar... and spray regularly with Sikicone spray availiable at Wally for 2 bucks... spray it down, wipe off excess with a rolling paper and youre golden.
|
|
|
Post by shadowhowler on Mar 15, 2010 1:25:09 GMT
wipe off excess with a rolling paper and youre golden. A rolling paper eh Marc...?
|
|
|
Post by wiwingti on Mar 15, 2010 7:30:01 GMT
rolling paper does it have something to do with funny cigarettes? ha ha ha
|
|