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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2010 22:24:00 GMT
I've never heard anyone useing this oil but it's fraganced thin mineral oil, very cheap and you can get it just about anywhere. Can't guess? Baby Oil- Ingrediants: mineral oil and fragarance- remind you of any expensive oil? ;D I personally use heavy weight mineral oil. I only have Euros and they all (except for 2 new ones) have synthetic fleece lined wood core scabbards and I keep them sheathed when not in use. After useing I immediately clean, dry, oil and resheath them, so I don't end up with a gunk problem that has been referenced on several other threads, particularly when discussing Eastern blades.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2010 22:32:30 GMT
Baby oil,dude I didnt even think about that.Believe it or not I have asked for light mineral oil here in 2 drug stores,and Wal-Mart,and they had no idea what I wanted,ended up sending me to the laxatives aisle LOL.I use valve oil for trumpets and such on my blades.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2010 22:42:18 GMT
Honestly...use the laxative type as opposed to baby oil. the fragrance in that stuff does your blades no favors. You won't need to use a lot of it though; it's pretty thick. Too much and you could crack a wooden saya eventually, because wood soaks the stuff up.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2010 23:00:33 GMT
Is the valve oil I use a good alternative?
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Post by sicheah on Mar 2, 2010 23:08:43 GMT
laxative are considered somewhat heavier mineral oil though, very little of it should be okay I guess. I have (sewing) machine oil and 3-in-1 oil and they do just fine. One bottle should last almost a lifetime unless you have bazillion amount of swords lol.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2010 0:10:49 GMT
I've been using either the 3-n-1 or Rem Oil. I figured if it's good enough to keep corrosion off of guns, it's good enough for m'blade. Both have kept any signs of corrosion off the blade.
Oh, and is a fleece lined scabbard good for the blade? I thought the whole point of wood cored scabbard was so that wood would keep the moisture off your blade while it's stored. This is why people prefer wood cores to just a straight up "sheath" for their swords.
Quick note: Sheaths are usually just two pieces of leather sewed together. They are also flexible and bendy. Scabbards on the other hand are solid and usually designed to keep a minimum amount of surface area touching the wood.
I'm not sure about the properties of fleece, but wouldn't that hold any residual moisture inside the scabbard?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2010 0:19:45 GMT
Greg, Fleece-lined scabbards are meant to hold oil--if you set them up properly, the fleece will be nearly saturated with oil and automatically oil and clean your sword every time you sheath it, so that you have to physically oil them far far far less often. Fancy stuff.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2010 2:36:04 GMT
I don't use fleece, I use synthetic fleece, also called sherpa. It's a synthetic fiber that looks and feels similar to fleece. Unlike natural fleece it doesn't have lanolin and you simply apply the type and quantity oil you'd like. Because it's a synthetic, even dry it won't absorb any moisture. Even if you dropped your scabbard in water, it's fairly simple to dry it out by holding it upside down in a semi-dry room. Obviously prolonged submersion in water and then attempting to dry it out will cause warping of the scabbard.
The synthetic fleece keeps the actual wood from touching the blade and prevents the woods acidity from staining the blade.
I've been making scabbards like this for almost 25 years and never had a problem with gunk or discoloration of a blade.
As far as the fragrance in the Baby oil adversely effecting the blade, I can't accurately agree or disagree at this time. My gut reaction is that it won't affect the blade as there is such a small quantity and it's suspended in the oil, so the only fair thing would be to give it a try.
I happen to be working on a few scabbards this week so I'll test it out on one of the blades. The only oil that will lub this blade will be Baby Oil. It's a customizied machete turned brokeback sax and I'll keep you posted.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2010 3:34:52 GMT
Well huh! Learn something new everyday. Thanks for broadening my horizons. The only information I have, is bits and pieces I've picked up hither and yon. Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2010 3:11:13 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2010 3:18:51 GMT
Also gun oil has distillates, I would avoid using it as sword oil long term.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2010 19:11:53 GMT
Very interesting. And I thought I wouldn't learn anything today, ha ha. Its discussions like these that make me love this forum so.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 1:48:02 GMT
Also gun oil has distillates, I would avoid using it as sword oil long term. Now that's interesting. If it won't harm gun metal why would it harm sword metal?
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Dom T.
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Post by Dom T. on Mar 5, 2010 2:12:00 GMT
Oh. Actually, when I first started sword collecting I used baby oil. Found it kinda stinks though. I pretty much use WD-40 lately, as I'm too lazy to get off my fat behind and buy something that isn't just lying around the house. Seems to evaporate pretty darn fast though.
Never heard of the gun oil being bad before. Then again, it's not something that I've paid much attention to. Anyways, I look forward to learning a bit more about oiling me blades.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 2:24:09 GMT
Gun steel is of the stainless variety and non porous, quite unlike blade steel. Gasoline is a pretty common distillate, would you mix that with mineral oil and put it on your sword? Polishers use distillates to clean blades after nugui so I doubt it's terribly damaging, but it's never left on for long periods. Also, in cases were scabbards (read: saya's) consist of two halves glued together, even mild distillates will erode said glue eventually.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 2:28:57 GMT
WD-40 has higher concentrations of distillates, which is why it evaporates quickly. I've seen it used to clean blades and Slavia has used it in nugui, but don't leave it long term.
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Dom T.
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Post by Dom T. on Mar 5, 2010 17:16:09 GMT
I'm long overdue to get something better to oil my swords. What would you suggest instead of baby oil? Know any common store brands that are pure mineral oil and without fragrance? Don't quite want to order from amazon. Oh, maybe this is off topic. Sorry if it is.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 17:37:11 GMT
Just plain ol' mineral oil works well. It's fragrance-free and can be found in the laxative isle of your local drugstore. However, it is very thick, so you'll only want to apply a thin coat.
This brings up something else related, though; most sword cleaning kits include powder balls. If you buy a pricey one, they contain uchiko powder. If you buy a cheapo, they contain talc.
Talc scratches a blade, so we never use our powder balls. Instead, we use 91% rubbing alcohol to do the job the powder is meant to, which is to remove the gunk before fresh oil is applied. Alcohol has an additional benefit as well; it can neutralize tarnish spots and help keep them from oxidizing into full-on rust. 71% works as well, but you have to be sure the blade is completely dried before you apply oil, as 71% has a higher water content than 91%.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 20:09:57 GMT
Good advice concerning uchiko, Midori. Store bought mineral oil does work fine, but your right about it being thick. I found it too thick to get a properly thin, even coat on my blades which is why I purchased the bottle of light from Amazon (you won't find it in a store/pharmacy. Trust me, I've looked...everywhere). That's just my own preference, though. It may work fine for others, and I couldn't recommend better as far as cheap, accessible sword oil goes.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2010 20:16:49 GMT
I actually use the stuff that's been refined for use on chainsaws and butcher blocks. Still natural mineral oil but very light, and was labeled 'Wood Oil'. It's probably the same stuff you're getting from Amazon. Did you try Harbor Freight or Ace Hardware? We got ours from Ace. I agree; I like the thinner stuff, too. The laxative type mineral oil does work in a pinch though, and we have a bottle of both.
I think this same, fine mineral oil was once (or maybe still is) used for sewing machines as well. Someone wanna verify or disprove that?
And thanks! Unless the sword is slated for polish, 'uchiko' won't touch one of my blades again.
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