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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 19:11:06 GMT
...and I let it rust in the scabbard. does anyone know how I can get this rust off of it? I've been nice to it lately, honest! I treat it like my guns, cleaned and stored with a thin coat of CLP... far away from any leather. steel wool and rust solvent don't seem to be working... at least not quickly. but I may not be doing it right. I spread the stuff thinly on the rust spots, let it set for an hour, then scrub it off gently with the steel wool... then polish the blade as normal (with an automotive polishing cloth and more CLP). I can see a little rust on the steel wool and the cloth each time I do it... is it just a long process, or am I doing something wrong?
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Post by YlliwCir on Jan 14, 2010 19:15:58 GMT
Hmm, that's a lot of rust. I'd try some Nevr-dull and maybe 1000 grit sandpaper. What kind of sword is it, btw?
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Post by shadowhowler on Jan 14, 2010 19:18:30 GMT
A rapier or small sword of some sort for sure... but yeh, it looks like a rust monster took a liking to that poor blade big time.
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 14, 2010 19:25:58 GMT
What you have here is beta-hematite, or second-stage oxidation. At this point it is going to be very tough, dense and resilient.
The only way that you will remove this is with abrasives; I would start at 400 grit paper with oil and work my way up to 1000 grit, repolising the entire blade.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2010 2:31:11 GMT
Yeah, I was going to say it's going to take more than 1000 grit to do this job. Speaking from the same experience here.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2010 3:38:44 GMT
I had rust about like that one one of mine once, I managed to get it all off with fine steel wool and WD-40, but it left a ton of fine scratches that I still haven't gotten around to polishing out.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2010 8:12:55 GMT
Sandpaper and nevr-dull, eh? 400 grit, 1000 grit and then the steel wool for touchup, maybe? Thanks for the advice. Guess I'm off to the hardware store tomorrow. What kind of sword is it, btw? an Estoc, identified today by recessmonkey and Jeff K. as a Hanwei. Not sure of the model, as it's certainly no rapier... heaviest and stiffest sword I own by a good margin. I should weigh it some time. It feels at least twice as heavy as my Heron Mark, though that may just be the length and lack of counterweighting.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2010 19:06:50 GMT
Oh, man. That looks terrible. I have a muzzle loader with more rust than that so do not fret too much. It is so rusty that it is irreparable. Your sword, however, does look salvageable. Good luck.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2010 1:34:34 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2010 18:21:10 GMT
update: thanks for all the advice. 400 grit sandpaper and nevr-dull took the rust right off... well, most of it. looks to have some swirl marks that go a bit deeper, and two lines near the tip you can see in the second picture... still, thousands of times better than what it was. tried polishing it back up with 1500 grit sandpaper (couldn't find 1000), 0000 steel wool and more nevr-dull, but it doesn't seem to want to shine anymore.
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Post by YlliwCir on Jan 30, 2010 19:08:14 GMT
Ah, that looks much better, Loc. Who needs a shiny sword anyhow.
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Insane
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Post by Insane on Jan 30, 2010 19:52:11 GMT
update: thanks for all the advice. 400 grit sandpaper and nevr-dull took the rust right off... well, most of it. looks to have some swirl marks that go a bit deeper, and two lines near the tip you can see in the second picture... still, thousands of times better than what it was. tried polishing it back up with 1500 grit sandpaper (couldn't find 1000), 0000 steel wool and more nevr-dull, but it doesn't seem to want to shine anymore. But you can't go from 400 to 1500 right away. For the best result take step by step. So 400, 480, 540, 600, 800, 1000,1200,1500 And the best way is to cross grids. So go diagonal left with 400grid then right with the next grid etc....
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 30, 2010 22:13:27 GMT
I agree, except starting with the 1000 and above I would go in 1 direction, along the blade.
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Insane
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Post by Insane on Jan 31, 2010 9:11:13 GMT
I agree, except starting with the 1000 and above I would go in 1 direction, along the blade. I agree with that. Those grids are fine enough for that.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2010 14:47:06 GMT
I'm just curious, how long did you let it sit in the sheath without oiling the blade? This question is for anyone. If one was to store a blade in the sheath, how often would one remove it in order to give it a good wipe down and oiling to prevent this from happening?
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 31, 2010 16:45:32 GMT
That is a question-begging question: SOooo here goes- - How high is the humidity
- How much moisture is the leather holding?
- Is the leather vegetable-tanned, oil-tanned, brain-tanned or (god forbid) chrome-tanned?
- How much oil is on the blade?
- How much oil is soaked into the leather?
- How tight is the sheath?
And the list goes on forever. A lightly oiled blade in an oil-dry, chrome-tanned leather sheath in high humidity can rust up in just a few hours; a moderately oiled blade in an oil-impregnated brain-tanned leather sheath in a low-humidity environment could last for months or years. It is impossible to say with any accuracy without more information.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2010 17:20:08 GMT
Soooooo, what your telling me is to fondle my sword often. Seriously now, I get your point. It's best not to store it in the scabbard. Similarly, one doesn't store a gun in a leather holster. Thank you.
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Post by Dan Davis on Jan 31, 2010 17:24:33 GMT
You are welcome.
I forgot to add sword finish to the list; a highly polished sword that has been burnished by a belt sander/buffer until the grain is closed will resist rusting a lot better than a satin-finish blade.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2010 19:46:46 GMT
in my case it sat for about two months lightly oiled, in pretty moderate humidity. Not sure what sorta leather it was. oddly enough, that wasn't the longest stretch I ever let it sit in there... nor the lightest oil coat. it just happened to rust that time.
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