Avery
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Manufacturer/Vendor
"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
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Post by Avery on Dec 20, 2009 16:07:44 GMT
I have the Leurterit, and still cut with it. Its a good sword to be sure. Only drawback is a secondary bevel. I've also heard that some people have a problem with the hilt becoming loose, but I haven't had that happen to mine. I did a review of it if anyone is interested.
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Post by sparky on Dec 20, 2009 19:03:54 GMT
I cut pretty well with either style. . . Euro swords are definitely not harder to cut with. the truth, as I see it, is more accurately stated that curved swords are more likely to teach you a bad habit than straight ones. whe your blade hits your target the angle that the target moves across your blade makes a big difference in how well it cuts. for example if you were to hover directly over the top of your target and look down on it while you cut it you will see the angle I am talking about. if this is your blade as seen from the top: | | the the target would most prefferably move along your blade like this: |/| or |\| and least preferably like this: |-| to achieve this the bade as it approaches the target should look kind of like this: o/ or this: o\ (the o is the target) but not like this: o| even with a curved sword if you manage to hit the target like this: o( you will have a real hard time cutting it. so if your target moves across your curved blade like this: (-( it will most likely not cut well just as if your target moves across your curved blade like this: (/( or (\( it will most likely cut ery well. the difference between a curve blade and a straight one is that getting your curved sword to cut across the target like this: (-( is harder to do with out thinking about it than with a straight blade. the motions that are use by most people (most people do NOT use a curved blade correctly either) will naturaly end up cutting with a straight blade like this: o| ok why is this? I will explain and hopefull this will turn the light on for those of you who are still confused by what the heck I'm trying to say. because let's face it those key-strokes do not illustrate things as well as we would like. think of this: you are standing on a flat bit of land but in front of you is a hill. the hill is like a speed bump in that it is very long, the same height all long its length and directly across your path. this hill is 10 feet high and if you stand right at the base of the hill (just where the land starts to rise) the top of the hill is 10 feet in front of you. this means if you walk 10 feet forward crossing it at a 90 degree angle you will go up 10 feet. this would be a pretty steep hill and walking up it would be a noticeable strain even if you are young and fit. now if you walk to the top of this but do it at a 45 degree angle instead of a 90 degree you will have to walk 15 or 20 feet forward before you reach the top of the hill 10 feet up in the air. so crossing at a 90 degree you go forward 10 feet and up 10 feet while crossing at a 45 you got forward 20 feet and up 10 feet. if you graph it out or just have a good imagination and are on the same page as me then you will see that the same hill will seem very much steeper if you cross it at a 90 degree angle (or perpendicular) than if you were to cross it at a 45 degree angle. so the farther forward you must walk to go the same amount of distance up the less steep the hill and the less energy it take to get there. so what does this mean for cutting with a sword? well now imagine your SWORD BLADE is that hill. if your target crosses your sword blade at a 90 degree angle to your blade it will have to spread the thickness of your blade in shortest possible amount of time. in other words it is climbing that hill the hard way. if your blade hits the target in such a way that the target crosses the blade at any angle OTHER than 90 degrees you will be increasing the length the target has to spread the thickness of the blade. in other words it is going up the hill at an angle or "the easy way". so if you have a curves sword and you are just cutting away and not paying particular attention to how the blade hits the target then you are much less likely to have the target cross the blade at a 90 degree angle because it is harder to cross a curve at a 90. also if you hold a curved sword like a katana out in front of you with the handle (tsuka) pointing in a 90 degree angle to your belly the very end of the blade will NOT be at a 90 degree angle to the target. if you hold a longsword out in front of you with the hilt at a 90 degree angle to your belly then the part of the blade that is going to cut the target will be approaching so that the target would cross it at a 90 degree angle. this is why you cannot use a longsword like a katana but you CAN use a katana like a longsword. is it harder to cut with a longsword because your sword falls naturally at a 90 degree angle to your target? no! because unless you are trying to use your longsword like a katana (been taught a bad habit for longsword) then it is not natural to swing your longsword so it hits at a 90 degree angle. it is quite easy to hit at an angle other than 90 degrees but if you have trained with a curved sword like a katana or if you have done a lot of cutting with a katana you will have to think about what you are doing just a little bit when you pick up a straight sword. this is why so many people who have trained JSA or cut a lot with katana have a hard time cutting with a straight sword the first time they pick one up be it a hollywood ninjato or a longsword, or a straight arming sword. I hope this makes sense Tom thanks for this, it points out one of my problem with cutting. Between you, ShooterMike, RicWilly, and others I'll become a cutter yet! ;D I appreciate you and others taking the time to share you knowledge with us. Have a +1 on me! ;D
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 20, 2009 21:11:04 GMT
thank you Sparky, I'm glad to share. I've learned a lot since I found SBG I feel it's only right I should continue to spread the knowledge as much as I can. if you look at some of my early videos they are pretty dreadful. I was lucky to have a good solid basis of sword fighting and training to build on but I found out very fast just how much difference there was between smacking a guy with a rattan stick and cutting through a target.
I learn something new almost every time I pick up a sword and that is part of the magic for me. everything you learn with a sword has something new to teach you as a natural extension of what it is.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2010 4:50:04 GMT
well i just got my first straight sword and its much tougher to cut with than my katanas, maybe the reason is that it's a one handed sword
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jan 13, 2010 4:17:09 GMT
WSW, try this (below); if your edge alignment is good and if you are swinging with sufficient speed then this is most likely your problem: Euro swords are definitely not harder to cut with. the truth, as I see it, is more accurately stated that curved swords are more likely to teach you a bad habit than straight ones. whe your blade hits your target the angle that the target moves across your blade makes a big difference in how well it cuts. for example if you were to hover directly over the top of your target and look down on it while you cut it you will see the angle I am talking about. if this is your blade as seen from the top: | | the the target would most prefferably move along your blade like this: |/| or |\| and least preferably like this: |-| to achieve this the bade as it approaches the target should look kind of like this: o/ or this: o\ (the o is the target) but not like this: o| even with a curved sword if you manage to hit the target like this: o( you will have a real hard time cutting it. so if your target moves across your curved blade like this: (-( it will most likely not cut well just as if your target moves across your curved blade like this: (/( or (\( it will most likely cut ery well. the difference between a curve blade and a straight one is that getting your curved sword to cut across the target like this: (-( is harder to do with out thinking about it than with a straight blade. the motions that are use by most people (most people do NOT use a curved blade correctly either) will naturaly end up cutting with a straight blade like this: o| ok why is this? I will explain and hopefull this will turn the light on for those of you who are still confused by what the heck I'm trying to say. because let's face it those key-strokes do not illustrate things as well as we would like. think of this: you are standing on a flat bit of land but in front of you is a hill. the hill is like a speed bump in that it is very long, the same height all long its length and directly across your path. this hill is 10 feet high and if you stand right at the base of the hill (just where the land starts to rise) the top of the hill is 10 feet in front of you. this means if you walk 10 feet forward crossing it at a 90 degree angle you will go up 10 feet. this would be a pretty steep hill and walking up it would be a noticeable strain even if you are young and fit. now if you walk to the top of this but do it at a 45 degree angle instead of a 90 degree you will have to walk 15 or 20 feet forward before you reach the top of the hill 10 feet up in the air. so crossing at a 90 degree you go forward 10 feet and up 10 feet while crossing at a 45 you got forward 20 feet and up 10 feet. if you graph it out or just have a good imagination and are on the same page as me then you will see that the same hill will seem very much steeper if you cross it at a 90 degree angle (or perpendicular) than if you were to cross it at a 45 degree angle. so the farther forward you must walk to go the same amount of distance up the less steep the hill and the less energy it take to get there. so what does this mean for cutting with a sword? well now imagine your SWORD BLADE is that hill. if your target crosses your sword blade at a 90 degree angle to your blade it will have to spread the thickness of your blade in shortest possible amount of time. in other words it is climbing that hill the hard way. if your blade hits the target in such a way that the target crosses the blade at any angle OTHER than 90 degrees you will be increasing the length the target has to spread the thickness of the blade. in other words it is going up the hill at an angle or "the easy way". so if you have a curves sword and you are just cutting away and not paying particular attention to how the blade hits the target then you are much less likely to have the target cross the blade at a 90 degree angle because it is harder to cross a curve at a 90. also if you hold a curved sword like a katana out in front of you with the handle (tsuka) pointing in a 90 degree angle to your belly the very end of the blade will NOT be at a 90 degree angle to the target. if you hold a longsword out in front of you with the hilt at a 90 degree angle to your belly then the part of the blade that is going to cut the target will be approaching so that the target would cross it at a 90 degree angle. this is why you cannot use a longsword like a katana but you CAN use a katana like a longsword. is it harder to cut with a longsword because your sword falls naturally at a 90 degree angle to your target? no! because unless you are trying to use your longsword like a katana (been taught a bad habit for longsword) then it is not natural to swing your longsword so it hits at a 90 degree angle. it is quite easy to hit at an angle other than 90 degrees but if you have trained with a curved sword like a katana or if you have done a lot of cutting with a katana you will have to think about what you are doing just a little bit when you pick up a straight sword. this is why so many people who have trained JSA or cut a lot with katana have a hard time cutting with a straight sword the first time they pick one up be it a hollywood ninjato or a longsword, or a straight arming sword. I hope this makes sense also use these pictures Bart made to help see what I'm talking about. the round blue dots are the targets, the arrows are the direction the sword is traveling in, the red lines illustrate the length of the cutting edge used
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2010 4:38:04 GMT
Or WSW´s sword needs to be sharpened better. Any hanwei or windlass with standard sharpening is not gonna have a good edge unlike pretty much any katana at any price. So if your use to the edge quality of production katana at sub 300 and compare it to euro blades, you may find it lacking. I cut better with a lot of cheap katana compared to cheap euro swords just because the katana is actually properly sharpened.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2010 13:52:41 GMT
Nathan, you forgot the cost of R&D...Albion won´t put something on the market till they properly researched, developed and worked all the kinks out(and this is not a small amount of money)...if you look at the first gen VA atrim...you can see they didn´t Questions on the 1st gen ATrim: 1- Are the first gens the ones with the slotted head on the pommel nut instead of the socket head? 2- Do all of the first gens have the slotted nut, or did they change in midstream? I have convinced myself that I need to posess an AT304s, but it has the slotted pommel nut, and not the socket head nut. Should I shun it completely, or is it a non issue?
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jan 13, 2010 22:47:54 GMT
as far as I know the first generation 304 and 303's all have the standard slot nut. also as far as I know the first generations are sold out everywhere so the only way you would get one is on the secondary market. I also would say that if you do get a first generation sword while it will not be AS good as the second generation ones it will be a good sword non-the-less. honestly I wouldn't worry about a VA at304, it is going to be a good sword.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 0:28:15 GMT
it seems like albions are the toughest swords on the market is that true?
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jan 14, 2010 0:32:44 GMT
I don't know. Albions can be very tough for what they are, and they are certainly some of the better production swords but I don't think there is any "toughest" or "best" there's so much variety in Euro blades that things just aren't that simple.
if you can afford an Albion it is hard to go wrong by getting one, but it does happen. I had an Albion I just hated.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 1:01:28 GMT
i was extremely impressed with this albion, do you know which one it is? if i ever get an albion it would be this one
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 1:09:54 GMT
Thanks Tom, I wont worry about it either way then.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jan 14, 2010 1:41:03 GMT
WSW, just because somebody does a destructive test on a sword and it is really hard to break is no reason to buy the sword. I can't tell you how many times I've heard someone wonder why their sword got broken or hurt when all they were doing is things that the sword survived in Paul (or someone else's) video. yeah, it is cool to know what the limits of a sword are but just don't go thinking you can beat the crap out of a sword just because you saw it survive it in one of these types of video. I have really come to dislike this sort of demonstration.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 1:45:10 GMT
of course i wouldnt do the same testing as in that video but knowing how much that sword can take tells me that no matter how many bad cuts i do on regular targets it will last forever
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 2:04:39 GMT
of course i wouldnt do the same testing as in that video but knowing how much that sword can take tells me that no matter how many bad cuts i do on regular targets it will last forever No, no it won´t. No sword will survive forever in the hands of a person hell bent on doing bad techniques that stresses the blade forever. You want your swords to last? Learn to use them properly instead of looking for the toughest sword out there. In fact replies like what you just said is why a lot of people cringe at those destructive tests.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 2:37:01 GMT
well you never know how long the sword will last. my 80 dollar musashi is still in one peice after years of bad techique
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 2:39:27 GMT
Regardless of good technique, I would still prefer a tough sword to a fragile sword. That is, of course, in a situation where the swords have relatively equal handling, weight, etc. I admit that this test does impress me. I was certain that the sword would take a set before it was bent to the half-way mark. What model is that? The youtube user only labeled it as a "viking" sword.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 2:54:39 GMT
well you never know how long the sword will last. my 80 dollar musashi is still in one peice after years of bad techique Didn´t you bend that sword?!? In anycase, years is not forever...or even the life of a sword...or you. A well taken care of sword can be used for centuries by your great great grand children. And years of not learning better...really?!? Sure you don´t wanna apply more effort into that area? Would serve you better in the long run I would think.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 3:04:50 GMT
i have permanent brain damage so i will never get better but i try hard anyway to improve my cutting
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2010 3:23:48 GMT
Well brain damage or not, you can always get better. Look at crazycolerogers. He also has the cards stacked against him and yet he gets better. You will never get any better if you think you never will.
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