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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2009 16:52:35 GMT
Just took the Norman out for a spin, unfortunately I don't have a video camera but I do have a picture. From this picture you can see my unparalleled cutting skills . Oh a big thanks to Tom K for his sword grip video, it helped a lot. The white jug was the last one I cut which sucks because I was starting to get the feel of the sword, oh well next time. Anyway I'm sure people are wanting to know about the edge, well it is sharpish, it can cut smaller bottles but it looks to be more of a rip than a cut but this could also be caused by inexperience, we will see what the future brings. As for the sword itself, it flows very well and feels pretty light with a very authoritative cut.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2009 17:22:11 GMT
That looks about the same as my cuts with the Norman. I really think that it is related to the sharpness, because I can cut decently one handed with my Valiant Armoury longsword, which is paper-slicing sharp.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2009 17:04:20 GMT
You guys have to realize, the sword type that the Norman is patterned after wouldn't have been paper cutting sharp; it would've been what I like to call 'workman' sharp as the sword would've been used on armored as well as unarmored targets. Think of a cleaver of sorts. An edge as fine as the one you have, Jonathan, would likely roll against armor, thereby making the sword less efficient.
Of course, you're not going up against armor here, just thought I'd point out that the edge is probably accurate for the sword type. Most likely.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2009 19:21:47 GMT
Buy some pork and try it against that before you go to sharpen it; I would like to see how that works.
M.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2009 19:53:24 GMT
There's the spirit; great idea.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2009 2:21:25 GMT
I am in a state of agreement with you, Ebon. I'm sure that the current edge, while not knife-sharp, would cut unarmored flesh if the cut was executed properly. I would not want it any sharper if I was going to fight a maille-clad warrior either. A general idea is that type X swords are most effective when used from horseback. However, getting the sword up to efficient cutting speed on foot is more difficult with this type than say, a type XIV or other thrusting sword, at least for me. So while I haven't cut flesh, I believe that it would, but it is not sharp enough for cutting bottles cleanly. I feel that it is historically accurate right now. I don't plan on killing anyone with it though, so I will be sharpening it in the future. I wonder how it would fare against tatami. Truly, my poor skills don't give a very accurate representation of how the edge is right now, but when I cut milk jugs I have to use all of my strength to swing fast enough for the sword to cut.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2009 2:59:01 GMT
Do a lot of pushups.
M.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2009 3:10:56 GMT
Is one-hundred a night enough? Should I move on to two or three hundred?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2009 13:20:25 GMT
Now do deltoid raises and tricep presses. M.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2009 0:10:10 GMT
Alas, I am not very familiar with physical terminology, lol.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2009 4:06:34 GMT
Grab two weights (I use 15 pounders because I am weak ). Deltoid raises are simple; hold the weight at your sides as if they were sword grips. Raise them up (exhale as you do so) to shoulder level. Lower them (slowly) back down (inhaling as you do so). Like really slow flapping. Tricep presses are also simple. Start holding the weights the same way as above, but simply press them back, hold a second, and return it slowly to your side. Do that a bunch of times; works the sword muscles M.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2009 15:49:47 GMT
I will have to try that as soon as I can acquire dumbells. Thank you!
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 12, 2009 21:45:38 GMT
thing is, if you are doing it right you should be using more than just your arms. in fact, your arms should be doing the least amount of work, your power should be generated from your legs, hips and abdomen and merely transfered in wave or whip-like motion through your arms to your sword. your arms are mostly there to steer and guide the sword to its target.
weight lifting is a great ide but make sure you are working the right muscles. I would say get the hand weights and do cutting motions while holding them. push ups and arm-deltoid excercises are good but they don't work everything you need. if you want to isolate muscle groups and do just one group at a time that's fine just understand there are a lot of muscle groups involved in good cutting. arm strength will help you cheat a bit though. so go ahead and strengthen them, you won't be hurting yourself.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2009 22:06:03 GMT
That's something I need to work on as well. So far I have been ignoring form and powering through my swings. The results have not been pleasant.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2009 22:35:37 GMT
Don't need them; anything hefty that fits in the hand will do. Cinderblocks, for example M.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 13, 2009 4:17:38 GMT
if you really want to get a good idea about how to put your body into a swing take one (and just one) tennis lesson. then before you train your muscles to do the tennis motion, modify it so you are hitting with the edge and not the flat. the point is they will teach you how to power your motions with your legs and body instead of your arms, all you have to do is modify that to get your edge alignment right. obviously there is more to it than just that, but that would be a really good place to start if you cannot find any sword-schools or don't want to invest in expensive dojo fees. get one tennis lesson from an instructor (often you can even get it free as a trial) and that will help a lot.
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