Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2009 1:03:52 GMT
Hello
So: I just obtained my new tinker hanwei sword, the single handed early medieval sword (sharp).
While I'm quite happy with my purchase, I've noticed a few issues that concern me... and I haven't seen these issues being discussed elsewhere.
1: The pommel attachment.
It's not peened. We all know that these swords aren't peened, but held with a nut that you can remove with an Alan key. This is pretty cool but...
a) My handled is stuck fast to the tang... it seems glued there.
b) (and this is the big issue). The part of the tang that goes into the pommel is like 85% threaded rod! I was under the impression that oh, half of the "pommel tang" would be the full strong tang we all prefer, with a bit of threaded rod at the end to give a place for the nut to be held. Instead, there is about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch of full sized tang, and the rest is all rod. Is this structurally sound?
2: The scabbard.
It looks nice and such, but I have (again) two concerns/observation.
a) The sheathe is made of three "layers". 1 is the outer leather layer, then there is a middle layer of some kind of resin/plastic/fiberglass/hard substance, then there is an inner lining of leather again, or perhaps felt, it's hard to tell. I have noticed that if you are a bit off when you re-sheathe, it's *very* easy to start slipping the thin tip of the sword *between* these layers. You have to be careful, or else you can wreck the scabbard. This isn't a "problem" per say, but it's something one should be aware of.
b) I was first very pleased by the firm grip the scabbard had on the sword, but then it seemed to get looser. Operating on a hunch, I experimented a bit, and realized that, oddly enough, the sword is much better held on "one side" than the other. So if I unsheathe the sword, rotate it (so the other face of the pommel is now facing me) and re-sheathe it, the fit will be a lot tighter (or looser).
This would be simply an oddity, except when I sheathe the sword on the "tight side", I hear a bit of a rubbing/rasping sound coming from the bottom of the scabbard, and I worry the "inner felt/leather layer" may be loose or something.
Any comments?
cheers,
Ancalagon
P.S. I re-iterate that overall, this sword is pretty awesome.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2009 1:19:59 GMT
I own the Norman from the Tinker line, and I'm not sure about the multiple layers of the scabbard. I wasn't aware that there was anything on the interior of it, but the EMSHS may be different. I know I keep asking this, but how sharp is it? Have you tried slicing paper?
|
|
|
Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Nov 30, 2009 2:07:19 GMT
1: The pommel attachment. a) My handled is stuck fast to the tang... it seems glued there. I really doubt it is glued, they just jamed it on there real tight. this is a common thing with production swords. I'd not worry about it unless your wood core is splitting. in that case make your dealer replace it as unsafe. yup no worries about this man, it will be fine. they are all like this. yup, the H/T bastard sword I reviewed had this going on. could be you have a slightly off center tip on your sword or the scabbard is just fit funny. I would suggest sheathing your sword the "loose way" to avoid damaging anything. it's a pain, I know but it's better than tearing up your scabbard and scratching up your sword.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2009 19:31:13 GMT
kay tom is correct about the jamming thing I was concerned about mine too when I got it but i took it apart it was jammed on really tight and it has a very nice sturdy tang
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2009 22:18:51 GMT
a) My handled is stuck fast to the tang... it seems glued there. I really doubt it is glued, they just jamed it on there real tight. this is a common thing with production swords. I'd not worry about it unless your wood core is splitting. in that case make your dealer replace it as unsafe. Actually, I beg to differ. one of the key selling points of the new CAS/Tinker range was that the blades on a given model are interchangable - and the availability of blade replacements is apparently one of the things that Tinker insisted on when the lines were being designed. I am personally considering at the moment buying the Hand-and-a-Half training blunt and getting either or both of the two alternate sharp blades as well (fullered and non-fullered) so that I can interchange them as desired. Not to mention that if I do start training in WMA, it is nice to know I can just replace the blunt blade if it gets too worn. But if the fit is so tight (or has been glued) that it might be damaged trying to remove it...that is a problem that goes against both the CAS/Hanwei marketing and designed purpose.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2009 0:50:52 GMT
On the "really tight handle" issue, I have to say that part of my problem is that well, it's a sharp. It makes pulling hard rather... hazardous. I moderated my efforts due to safety concerns.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2009 1:10:12 GMT
just place one hand against the cross and the other on the handle
|
|
|
Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 1, 2009 1:57:25 GMT
Psychochink, you are absolutely correct about them being designec specifically to allow interchangeability but let me ask you this: since when has that stopped a production forge from jamming the wood on top of the tang? think katana here as this is usually what they deal in. the one tinker/hanwei hilt I dealt with was pretty tight. not glued, not too tight to remove but really stuck on there pretty good. I can see that someone who isn't used to dealing with this common issue might be concerned about hurting the sword or themselves. you have to be careful, no doubts there, but it will come off I'm sure. maybe Ancalagon's is jammed on a little tighter than normal. either way I'm sure it isn't glued unless someone at the forge screwed it up and was trying to hide the mistake (not that THAT has ever happened)
|
|
|
Post by Brendan Olszowy on Dec 1, 2009 2:41:36 GMT
Congrats on the sword Ancalagon.
Dont pull on the grip. Push the tip down into a block of wood, and standing over it with one hand at the end of each quillion, lever the quillions up and down in a seesaw motion, keeping your feet clear in case it slips from the wood. Levering on the quillions will pry the grip up for you, maybe about 1/8-1/4. It should be enough to losen it. If it's still tight, turn the sword over so the tang is on the wood, and tap the guard just out from the blade edge with a rubber mallet, working a little bit each side. Slow and steady.
Dont worry about the tang. If it is broad for just 1/2" of depth that'll be fine. It can't be half the depth or there would be no room for the nut plus the shelf the nut tightens upon. The stress is focussed at the base of the pommel, as that's where the pommel will pivot on the tang, when vibrating/ flexing. As the rest of the pommel can't experience any flex there is no stress on the threaded part, apart from tightening tension, of which there should be minimal. As long as the thread is left unhardened or at least well tempered it will be strong.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2009 12:54:43 GMT
Karma +1 Brendan, that sounds much safer!
cheers,
Ancalagon
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2009 3:32:39 GMT
Oh dear You know the "uneveness" in the sheathing? I found out what it is. There is an "object" - I'm not sure what it is" that got loose inside the scabbard. I inverted it a few times (back and forth) trying to get it out (I could hear it move around) but all I manage to do is to lodge it firmly at the bottom. I can't fully sheathe the sword now - I didn't force it because I didn't want to jam whatever it is more down there. darn it...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2009 3:50:21 GMT
that is so bizzare I know what you were talking about earlier with the odd layers and the who knows what core for it but the thing inside is odd do you think part of the scabbard may have broken off ?
|
|
|
Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 2, 2009 7:59:27 GMT
is the thing inside soft and pliable like a lump of leather/ fabric or hard like a chunk of fibreglass (which is what your core should be made of)?
this is quite strange. got a flashlight?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2009 12:14:38 GMT
Hello
First of all, I have no idea how that got in there. My gut feeling is that it was there all along. It is quite hard to get a good look at the thing with a flashlight but I managed (another thing that works decent incidently is a laser pointer). Right now it's an uneven "bar" that sits right across the "long axis" of the "oval" of the opening of the scabard (ie it's about 3/4 to an inch wide). It looks a bit rough, and is maybe 1-3 mm thick.
This is actually the second time I look in there, because I was concerned. initially, what I had seen was a "C shaped" object, pale in color, which I assumed was part of the scabbard.
My gut feeling is that it's a piece of cardboard, but I can't be sure.
sigh
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2009 12:50:51 GMT
Is the sword in its original condition other than the scabbard issue? If so, and if the company you ordered it from won't take it back and replace it. Arms of Valor, Ltd. will take it back and replace it.
On heard of, I know, but If you can't get it fixed it will bother you for the rest of the time you own the sword.
Jason Arms of Valor, Ltd.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2009 14:06:11 GMT
I had the same problem and I got another scabbard which is fine for now from my sword dealer.
|
|
|
Post by shadowhowler on Dec 2, 2009 14:18:49 GMT
Is the sword in its original condition other than the scabbard issue? If so, and if the company you ordered it from won't take it back and replace it. Arms of Valor, Ltd. will take it back and replace it. On heard of, I know, but If you can't get it fixed it will bother you for the rest of the time you own the sword. Jason Arms of Valor, Ltd. Wow Jason... That is an impressive display of altruism. +1 to you.
|
|
|
Post by enkidu on Dec 2, 2009 15:12:36 GMT
Is the sword in its original condition other than the scabbard issue? If so, and if the company you ordered it from won't take it back and replace it. Arms of Valor, Ltd. will take it back and replace it. On heard of, I know, but If you can't get it fixed it will bother you for the rest of the time you own the sword. Jason Arms of Valor, Ltd. Wow Jason... That is an impressive display of altruism. +1 to you. I'm also quite impressed, that says a lot about how you do business.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2009 15:54:08 GMT
Jason is good people and a good contributor, outstanding of you to go above and beyond, this is part of why I love the SBG so much and why I call it home, even though I am a relative newbie
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2009 19:29:09 GMT
Jason I love you and I hope to one day purchase a sword from you (probably next time I get a DSA I'll go through you)
|
|