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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2009 2:36:28 GMT
because I am pretty sure they did not have fiberglass when when these swords were using... it's like buying a sword with a fiberglass blade (does that make sense?), it could be more durable and not need maintenance, but it's so far away from the genuine stuff it feels wrong... Look at it this way: It's a free cheapo scabbard you can use until you get the custom, authentic scabbard you want! You're buying the sword for the sword, not the scabbard. Personally, I find a scabbard, even if it's a very basic non historical one, to be a big plus when I'm buying a sword. Their absence has discouraged me from buying certain swords in the past.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2009 2:43:48 GMT
Personally, I find a scabbard, even if it's a very basic non historical one, to be a big plus when I'm buying a sword. Their absence has discouraged me from buying certain swords in the past. *cough*Albion*cough*cough*
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2009 2:54:32 GMT
because I am pretty sure they did not have fiberglass when when these swords were using... it's like buying a sword with a fiberglass blade (does that make sense?), it could be more durable and not need maintenance, but it's so far away from the genuine stuff it feels wrong... Look at it this way: It's a free cheapo scabbard you can use until you get the custom, authentic scabbard you want! You're buying the sword for the sword, not the scabbard. Personally, I find a scabbard, even if it's a very basic non historical one, to be a big plus when I'm buying a sword. Their absence has discouraged me from buying certain swords in the past. I agree, but there are plenty of other "cheap" swords out there that come with authentic wood core, leather covered scabbards (Gen 2, Darksword, Cold Steel, VA Signature) so I would rather buy one of those (given the quality of the swords is probably similar).
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Post by ShooterMike on Nov 23, 2009 15:24:39 GMT
Look at it this way: It's a free cheapo scabbard you can use until you get the custom, authentic scabbard you want! You're buying the sword for the sword, not the scabbard. Personally, I find a scabbard, even if it's a very basic non historical one, to be a big plus when I'm buying a sword. Their absence has discouraged me from buying certain swords in the past. I agree, but there are plenty of other "cheap" swords out there that come with authentic wood core, leather covered scabbards (Gen 2, Darksword, Cold Steel, VA Signature) so I would rather buy one of those (given the quality of the swords is probably similar). Of those you listed, only the VA Signature comes with a "historically correct" scabbard with respect to construction, fittings and covering.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2009 2:51:36 GMT
Fibreglass scabbards is something I've learnt to deal with, but plastic handles ....... ooooooooo that still doesnt impress me none. But hey run it through Sonny's CSS and you kinda forget fibreglass is underneath
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2009 3:39:53 GMT
I agree, but there are plenty of other "cheap" swords out there that come with authentic wood core, leather covered scabbards (Gen 2, Darksword, Cold Steel, VA Signature) so I would rather buy one of those (given the quality of the swords is probably similar). Of those you listed, only the VA Signature comes with a "historically correct" scabbard with respect to construction, fittings and covering. probs, but all of them are close to the real deal compared with Windlass or in this case Hanwei, from which I expected more btw
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2009 10:52:48 GMT
If you care about historical accuracy, why is correct scabbard so important and the fact that the pommel is tightened with a nut is not a problem? I realize people have very different visions of what is acceptable on their swords but not buying a sword because scabbard is not correct but it still functions well is weird to me. If you just don't like the sword that much, then ok. I will probably buy this sword when I'll have the money but I will be cutting threaded apart of the tang off and peen the rest over the pommel because how the sword is constructed is quite important to me.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2009 11:30:54 GMT
If you care about historical accuracy, why is correct scabbard so important and the fact that the pommel is tightened with a nut is not a problem? I realize people have very different visions of what is acceptable on their swords but not buying a sword because scabbard is not correct but it still functions well is weird to me. If you just don't like the sword that much, then ok. I will probably buy this sword when I'll have the money but I will be cutting threaded apart of the tang off and peen the rest over the pommel because how the sword is constructed is quite important to me. well that too... I prefer peened/threaded pommels... thanks for pointing that out . My problem with the scabbard is that it will not only be inaccurate, it will look inaccurate and since I usually keep all my swords in their scabbard unless I used them, that would make the whole sword look awkward... but that's just my personal take on this issue, I still like the sword despite its flaws (in my eyes), it's just that there is so many other ones out there I would rather have...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2009 4:21:48 GMT
It doesn't look much different than the cheap scabbards offered with the manufacturers that you mentioned previously, at least in my eyes. I wouldn't put off this sword simply because of the scabbard, because while it may look bad, it does its job. At least, the scabbard on my Norman actually looks nice, if not historically accurate, and it fits the sword fairly well. It is a solidly constructed scabbard, and I would have still bought the sword if it did not include a scabbard. Now that I am speaking of the Hanwei/Tinker swords, I wish that Hanwei offered the swords peened as well as threaded, because I and others prefer peened swords to swords constructed from other methods.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2009 4:38:44 GMT
George300, it's not fiberglass on the outside--the scabbard is covered with leather. There's no way it would look any different from a woodcore scabbard with the sword placed in it. I have a Hanwei sword with a fiberglass scabbard and I didn't know it was fiberglass for weeks, until I found it mentioned in a review. I suspected something from the nifty sound it makes when you draw the sword, but it really looks spot on, ESPECIALLY if you are displaying the sword in it. Then there's no way to peer in and check. To reiterate: It's leather-covered. You can't actually see that the core is fiberglass. It looks just like any other similar scabbard. @jonathan: I actually prefer threads. That is, with a recessed pommel nut. In many production swords, it is actually stronger than a peen. The peen is only one "thread" holding the sword together, while recessed nut has several. Check out the size of the peen on the much-revered Windlass Arming sword: /index.cgi?board=swordcustom&action=display&thread=10675&page=1#171813 Note that this doesn't apply to all peened swords, as the hot peened assembly used by Albion where each hilt component is individually fitted is VERY strong. But that's a whole "can o' worms" debate that I don't want to start up. To each his own. ;D
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2009 5:42:39 GMT
Albion use a slightly recessed peen on theirs, very good I hear by all accounts another reason you pay what you pay.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2009 5:42:50 GMT
@ Jon (it's ok if i abbreviate to that right?) & Lunaman: don't get me wrong, I am not putting this sword off just because of the scabbard, I still like it, but it is now lower on my list than some of the other greats swords currently in the market.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2009 5:48:01 GMT
No worries, mate. Just trying to offer info for clarification.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2009 18:29:39 GMT
To each his own, as many of you say. I am not doubting the strength of recessed nut construction, but rather the tight fit. Occasionally, when I cut with my VA longsword something feels amiss. I have only dissasembled it once, but when I reassembled it I was not sure if I tightened it enough due to my inexperience. Since I am an amatuer sword-owner and do not trust myself to tamper with it much, I would rather spend my money on a sword that I know is constructed soundly and will not give me trouble in the future. It is mainly all mental for me.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2009 13:00:48 GMT
I have a question regarding this bending the a sword. I have the same sword...and it is too easy to bend. When i am holding it horizontaly tip of the sword is bent just by gravity for a half inch. I do not know is this just in my case but i find the thickness of the blade to be insufficient. Is that normal or i am just overreacting? And I have also tried to cut the plastic bottle and I could not do it. I did not sharpen the sword before. Do I need to sharpen it better than default or i need better technique?
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 30, 2009 13:25:32 GMT
Vaylon, I suspect your sword could use sharpening but do not underestimate the importance of good technique. I can't say if your technique is poor or good not having seen you cut and I really cannot say how sharp your sword is obviously but the word on the street seems to indicate that these swords come with an edge that is less than desireable though maybe not out-right bad.
however, I do not believe your sword is too thin or too flexible. it is a great big, long, cutting sword and as such the geometry it needs to be an effective cutter also makes the blade less stiff than a thrusting sword. in order to make the sword stiff enough to not flex in this manner it would have to be ridiculously thick and would not be as good a cutter. the big question is: when you hit a target with good edge alignment does it feel solid?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2009 14:09:30 GMT
Well This is my first sword so I do not much about stuff.
About the technique: Sword was not very sharp and I did not really have much time or place to practice. Just with few bottles placed very low( a foot from the ground) and it was also too dark. So this test can not be reliable.
Thrusting the bottles was very easy. And when I stab the 2 liter bottle and try to hold it , the sword bends cca 45 degrees.
Also I need advice on How to sharpen the sword and with which tool ?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2009 14:15:30 GMT
Vaylon,
If you look at the bottom of the post right above yours,the post by Tom K. you will see a link to Toms sharpening tutorials. I highly recommend that you look at them for an idea of how to go about sharpening your blade.
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Post by shadowhowler on Dec 30, 2009 19:34:34 GMT
Yeh... I suspect the GSoW needs to be sharpened... I have never seen a Hanwei Euro sword that did NOT need to be sharpened.... that includes the Tinker Line. However... the flex seems right in a cutting sword that size... as Tom mentioned, for a blade that big to be so stiff as to not flex would require a lot of metal, be SUPER heavy, and would not cut as well anyway. I still wanna get my hands on one of thes GSoW's... so tasty.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2009 21:23:20 GMT
Hey Shadow, keep your eyes open and you may pick one up on the cheap. About a month ago, Swordnation had them on their deal of the day for either 199$ or 205$!!
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