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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 5:41:51 GMT
"Message is decieving, blade isn't sharp enough!" So I recieved the sword today. This is the new Tinker Norman made by Hanwei and I purchased it through Sword Nation. Great vendor by the way, nothing but praise from me. They sent me an email with the reciept and another with the UPS tracking number. The package came with no issues. Now, here is for what was inside the package. As you can see, the sword came well packed. It was secure to the cardboard inner box that it was shipped in by styrofoam wrapping and tape, plus it was inside a plastic bag. The sword had protective oil coating which came off rather easily. Now onto the sword. The sword itself is a quality piece, especially for this price range. It however is not without flaws. The edge's sharpeness is uneven. From the hilt to about two and quater inches out is unsharpened. The blade is rather dull until it gets halfway across its length. The last half ot the blade is semi sharp at best. The tip is rounded, not pointed as well. That will have to be filed down to a point. I have not cut with it but my experience tells me the edge needs a fair amount of work. Nothing too serious though should be involved. Juding from what I see, should need a little filing and some eighty grit sand paper to get it right. My next major gripe is the peen. It is steady but very uneven. It could have been sanded down better. As the peen stands now, it is rough but secure. Aside from that really, I have no complaints. Finish was satisfactory, blade taper is superb! Weight and balance are just as splendid as the taper! Hilt is solid, no rattles, and the blade is a good stiffness. So even though the factory edge is rather dull and the peen could have been smoother, this sword has it where it counts. Where it counts is the heat treat, the good taper, and the tight fit and finish. The rest can be sanded down, fixed, at a later date. One last note, the grip is comfortable but the quality of the leather could have been a bit better but is suitable for this price range. That's the last of the pictures. The scabbard actually seems to be wooden core. I could be wrong but when I peaked inside, it looked like wood and not fiberglass core. The chape is awsome, love it but again the leather covering it is rather cheap. Over all it is a good scabbard. So in conclusion, the sword is worth the money. It has all the basics correct and the rest can be improved rather easily by the user. Things like, the peen being rough can be resanded, the edge filed, and grip and scabbard can always be rewrapped with new leather. Over all, its a great project sword and for $260, it's almost the quality of a new lower end Del Tin or Albion Squire Line sword.
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Post by shadowhowler on Aug 20, 2009 9:20:33 GMT
I dunno if your fermilar with this blade type... but its supposed to have a rounded or 'spatula' type tip. The tip should not come to a point. The Sword is made for cutting, not thrust/stabbing. The tip SHOULD be sharp... but it should be rounded as well. As for the sharpness of the sword overall... yup, clasic Hanwei. I have alwaus loved the irony of the little sticker on their boxes warning the object inside is sharp. Hah! We WISH.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 11:09:28 GMT
I am dissapointed with the blade sharpness, but everything else looks nice. Are you going to do any cutting with the factory edge?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 11:22:22 GMT
Congrats on your new sword. I hope everything will work out, as far as the edge is concerned.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 12:48:43 GMT
Congrats on the sword I really like the brazil nut pommel it differs from the usual round one that you get with a norman sword.What is the total blade length and the blade width.O yea I like the wider fuller to, besides the sharpening problem I really like it nice sword,thanks for the review.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 12:50:17 GMT
I wondered about that shadow. I never owned a type x but I've seen replicas that had rounded tips and ones that came to a point so I'm not sure which way it is supposed to be but I will make it come to a point. I can attempt to cut a Listerine bottle or two with the stock edge but I seriously don't think it will cut, or at least not the whole way through. I don't have great form mind you but I do know how to sharpen and I can tell if a sword is sharp enough. This sword is not sharp enough. I'll let you guys know though if I get a chance.
Oh yeah I noticed one person wanted stats. Here are the ones from sword nation. Overall length: 36 5/16" Blade length: 30 11/16" Handle length: 5" Weight: 2lb 8oz
It is about two inches wide. I'll get a ruler later to verify that but the sword nation stats seem to be about right off hand.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 23:13:52 GMT
Is the actual blade geometry the way it should be, or is it completely wrong? If it just needs sharpening, I can do that. If the blade geometry is way wrong, I could have a problem.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2009 4:39:01 GMT
John, I understand the fear that is taking you over. We all had it at one point. That fear is understanding what makes a sword sharp and how to properly maintain an edge. Edge alignment is not hard but learning it can prove costly. I myself has screwed up a number of swords learning how to sharpen right. The key is that you file down the blade and not at the edge. When you sharpen, you always hold the file at a fifteen degree angle so it hits just atop where the edge is. The problem here is that there is too much meat. Honestly, the best way to get it sharp quickly is to get a sanding block, get Norton 80 grit sand paper, and in a one way downward motion run the block along the edge. That should get it sharp enough. That and filing should do it. I mean, it shouldn't be too hard to fix. it isn't sharp but it is easy enough to fix. You live in Georgia, you got a lot of great sword geeks by you. See if you can meet up with one of them after you get the sword. Also check out BrianK's sharpening guide. The best kind of files to get are the magnetic diamond files. those things last forever! They are a million times better than those clunky old Nicholson files. www.webstaurantstore.com/edgecraft-chefs-choice-420-edgecrafter-diamond-sharpener-file/694420.htmlYou'll never go wrong with Edgecrafts and accusharps and smith sharpeners are the devil. NEVER use them, period. Those accucsharp junk are not made for swords.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Aug 21, 2009 5:53:35 GMT
StevenJ, I just got a EMSHS blade and it is blunt in the lower half too. as I understand it this is an accurate historical way of sharpening. the idea is you block with that part of the sword and you can half sword without getting cut and you can bash their armor with it, but I had thought this was mostly for longswords and later period blades.
I also wonder about the edge not being all that sharp. my EMSHS is not as sharp as the standard Valiant Armory practical sword but the geometry was correct and the edge has a heavy bur to it meaning it is ready for a final sharpening. I think it would cut decently as is but I would certainly want to touch it up.
my blade too has great shape and taper like yours and will handle very well I'm sure.
I think you should sharpen it some more but ummm 80 grit? lordy, you might as well rub it on a rock. I'd suggest using something lighter like 200-400 to refine the edge you have and leave the blunt part blunt. but if you really MUST sharpen the blunt part (you know I understand) then use a file to establish the intitial edge. if yours is like mine it shouldn't be hard to bring it to a really nice edge just knock off that burr.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2009 11:26:16 GMT
I would want mine to be sharp along the entire length of the blade, except maybe 3 or 4 inches closest to the hilt. I would get the diamond hone, but I don't think I would be able to get the blunt half to the right geometry. Tom, if you were still offering your sharpening service, I would probably just use it.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Aug 21, 2009 14:36:59 GMT
keep your eyes open Jonathan I'll offer up another set eventually. I just don't know when right now. it's getting a little too close to patrol time for me to offer right now.
I can certainly understand wanting it all sharp but this doesn't bother me.
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Post by shadowhowler on Aug 21, 2009 15:09:47 GMT
I certainly don't mind about 5 inchs from the cross not sharp on a blade thats 28-32 inchs long or so... I'm never going to cut with those 5 inches anyway. However... half the sword not being sharp... that would bother me a bit.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2009 16:05:09 GMT
Thanks for this review; I was not thrilled with this edge either. Now I need a favor- send your thoughts/criticisms etc. to CAS/Hanwei. They are seriously interested in improving this line so customer feed-back is important!
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Aug 21, 2009 16:10:14 GMT
yeah I know what you mean Sean, but think about it, how often do you really cut there? most of my swords are razor sharp all the way to the cross and even though I know some techniques that I could use to cut with that area I never, ever do. even when we miss and cut with a part of the blade other than we intended we still almost always cut with the forward half. I'm going to give it a try anyway. if it bugs me I can always sharpen it.
I am glad Hanwei has made their swords with decent enough geometry that a newbie can cut with them pretty much out of the box, though for out of the box edge quality I still have to give them a C+/B- (much better than their previous F to D- ) but a C+/B- is a very serviceable edge and should be able to cut bottles and even mats without sharpening. I don't think it'll do empties though.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2009 16:22:43 GMT
I'm not concerned with the 4 inches or so of blade from the guard...I doubt you'd have much need to cut with that portion of the blade, as close to the cross as it is. I like the looks of this sword...its on my list now.
That it rivals an Albion Squire Line at nearly half the price is just more impetus for me to acquire it eventually.
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Post by shadowhowler on Aug 21, 2009 16:32:34 GMT
yeah I know what you mean Sean, but think about it, how often do you really cut there? Thats what I'm saying... 5 inchs from the guard, I'm never going to cut with that spot... but once you start getting a bit further... I don't cut with the first half of the blade often, but I do sometimes.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Aug 21, 2009 17:49:52 GMT
a challenge then: using a yard-stick/tape measure mark a line at the exact halfway point of your favorite sword's blade (use a crayon or something easy to clean up but that will stay on a while) and do some cutting after each cut check where you cut at and record it. don't change your routine, just cut the way you always do. I bet you cut in the bottom half less than you think. I would think you CLOSE to it but unless you try to cut there on purpose I doubt you'll hit it that often.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2009 21:52:50 GMT
If I acquire that diamond hone someone posted a link to, will I be able to get the bottom half of the blade to the right geometry?
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Aug 22, 2009 7:35:47 GMT
Jonathan, that depends much more on you than the file. I had no trouble using a file on the lower portions of my blade, so as long as you make the shape right then no worries. just be ready for a LONG job as you'll have to remove a LOT of steel. enough that I would say you might change the weight of the sword by an ounce, you might move the center of Gravity or even the vibrational node locations, but yeah you could probably do it.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2009 14:59:07 GMT
That's too bad. I was going to do it myself, but I don't want to ruin its performance. I wish that Hanwei could just get the edge geometry right.
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