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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 13, 2014 7:46:23 GMT
Yeah, I did like it. As I said, it's quite different from my Regenyei and the other feders I've handled (Brebekuzc and Ensifer). Very stiff, thick edges all the way down with a deep fuller and a blade positive balance. Took some effort to get moving but tracked really well once in motion.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 12, 2014 18:15:14 GMT
Good work, both of you!! Very good choice of "platform", too. I don't know if you've cut with the sword before but with the new edge it should be a very good little cutter. And visually the new edge is a huge improvement, too. If you're still considering, I wouldn't round over the fuller's edges. I always feel that washes out the lines too much and a crisp fuller is a very prominent and catching characteristic that has a big impact on aesthetics.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 12, 2014 18:07:11 GMT
Yeah, the Comfort fencing one is really nice, saw it at SKUNKS this year. Very different from the other feders I've handled before. Quite a lot of blade presence if I recall correctly.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 12, 2014 14:40:11 GMT
From the top of my head I can't think of a good entry level XV to be honest. There is the DSA and the Gen2 (Legacy Arms) Black Prince but neither is a good sword, really. Del Tin might have one in their line up, can't remember. There however are several good XVIII... H/T Bastard, Hanwei Albrecht II, H/T Longsword (debatable sword type but good anyway), several Del Tins, etc. I'd suggest one of these. If you're set on a XV, I'd go with the Albion Squire line.
For a feder, I like Regenyei. Berbekuzk is pretty good, too, as is Chlebowski. All European makers though at least Regenyei has a US distributor (Scott Brown?). Always a good idea to hunt the classifieds at HEMA Alliance...
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 5, 2014 21:55:54 GMT
Very nice, clean work!! Looks evil and seems to cut very aggressively! I really like the finish of the spine and the edge, too. One thing I would have done differently is the end of the handle, it seems a bit blocky and slightly on the large side. Some more sculpting would have improved the aesthetics IMO but that's very subjective. Anyway, Karma!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 29, 2014 16:51:54 GMT
For wearing the sword, you'd do best to make a 2- or 3-point suspension, the way longswords were worn historically. Here's an example of a 2-point suspension: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=13493Check out Brian Kunz's website for more examples. MyArmoury also has a lot of stuff about scabbard suspensions. Ideally, you'd make a new scabbard or (less work) cover the fiberglass scabbard both swords come with using leather. There are many tutorials on how to do that out there. The GSoW will probably have a better fitting scabbard but both are pretty similar, fiberglass core with simple chape and mouth. The Bastard's scabbard doesn't have the fake leather cover the GSoW has (at least mine doesn't), otherwise they're the same. Both cry out for some DIY work
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 29, 2014 12:18:47 GMT
I vastly prefer peened but it has to be done properly (which you can't check, unless the peen fails). I've only once seen a dismounted Hanwei Bastard sword (ShooterMike did a rebuilt many years ago) and that one was ok but you never know. The one I have has remained solid despite rough use, so that speaks in favor of the way Hanwei does these (if it was a Windlass, I wouldn't trust the peen for a second, seen to many cosmetic peens that were nothing but a tiny metal rim). The advantage of the H/T hex nut construction is that they normally do a good job with it and, being dismountable, you can check it. Also, you can rework the hilt to your liking (blueing, etc) much more easily than on a permanently assembled sword. A forumite here even offers beautiful custom fittings for the H/T line, as do craftsmen like Ernie from Yeshua's sword. Whenever I end up with a hex nut sword, I use loctite to turn it into a permanently assembled sword once I'm happy with the way it is. Add a fake peen block and nobody knows the sword is not really peened. All that requires a good deal of work though. Some people use semi-strong loctite (blue), this gets rid of the usual working loose of the fittings during use (which is very annoying IMO) but you can get the hilt apart using a torch to break the bond should you decide to rework it.
Regarding the finish: Theoretically, the rougher surface does induce more friction in the target, meaning the sword doesn't cut as cleanly and easily as it would with a smooth polish. However, it is questionable if that is of practical concern. I did a few cuts with the Bastard before I blunted it and it cut well enough with the semi-sharp edge it came with. So I think if you give it a good, sharp and polished edge, the textured flats shouldn't have a noticeable effect. Wouldn't be my choice for a cutting competition but that's all. On the plus side, the texture is very durable, hides scratching and offers some protection against rust.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 28, 2014 21:17:34 GMT
Both swords are large two handed weapons, the term "Bastard" sword is misleading. The Hanwei Bastard is a good deal longer, something I like. I use a dulled one for solo practice and partner drills because it's heavier than my feder and a good work out. However, it doesn't handle as well as the H/T GSoW (though there seems to be a fair variety between those, I've seen two and one was considerably better than the other). Being stiffer, the Bastard sword is a better thruster and a more than adequate cutter. The GSoW out cuts it but that's no surprise given the different blade design. You might have to rework the edge, no matter which sword you get, edges are a bit of a hit or miss in that price range. To sum it up: both are decent choices, I would lean towards the GSoW, unless you want a sword of greater length. Especially if you get a good one, the GSoW is a better sword, harmonically (and maybe technically, though mine is holding up very well) sounder than the Bastard.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 26, 2014 18:42:41 GMT
I've seen your work on myarmoury, very nice! Welcome here! Oh, and don't hold your breath on the M&V account, things are a bit slow at the moment. You're not the only one waiting
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 22, 2014 10:43:50 GMT
If it's a good (meaning hard) metal file, you should temper it some more, as fallen said. Files just aren't meant to be tough and stress-absorbing, they need to be hard. Mid 60 RC is not unusual and that is simply too hard for most knife blades (kitchen knifes can approach that hardness). Now, I personally anneal all files before working on them, otherwise it's hell on belts and you always have to be careful not to overheat. If you don't want to have to heat treat them, you could grind the blade to shape and then give it a nice long temper cycle or two at about 180-200°C. Alternatively you could do a differential temper with a torch. But I would strongly suggest not leaving the file as it is. Otherwise you run the risk of the blade simply snapping under stress. The flex is not affected by the heat treat, only the ability of the blade to return back to true after flexing and not taking a set or (more likely in your case) breaking. The amount of flex a blade has comes primarily from its shape (blade geometry, thickness, etc) but the way it flexes (where, how) is the same before and after HT.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 20, 2014 4:43:55 GMT
Thanks, Mike! Appreciate it.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 19, 2014 7:26:36 GMT
Nice cutting! Good to see you again, too!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 16, 2014 11:56:22 GMT
I'll agree with all the others, looks great. I like the darker look.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 15, 2014 10:56:50 GMT
If my post came across as that, I apologize, wasn't my intention. I was trying to give an honest second opinion on the sword, as a sword enthusiast, not as a maker.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 15, 2014 5:50:24 GMT
Thank you!!!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 14, 2014 11:15:10 GMT
Psycho V: I really appreciate you posting here and thank you for the detailed information on how and why you made the sword the way it is. I do not necessarily agree as the (admittedly few) original spathae and early viking swords I've examined mostly had a decent deal of distal taper and possessed different handling characteristics but I have no doubt other swords existed. I would have made the sword differently but let's not forget that that's also personal preference for a large part. Not sure if this is directed at me but I'll comment anyway. Weight in and on itself isn't a problem, only when weight and sword size or type don't fit together. 4lb would be perfectly fine for a large longsword. For a viking sword, not so much (to give an example, I'm not saying this particular sword is that heavy, I actually don't know its weight). I agree that people should be in good physical shape and being fit certainly helps (in fact, it's mandatory IMO) for sword fighting but nonetheless, swords can be and often are too heavy. Saying "grow stronger" doesn't change the fact that the sword is sub-optimal for its intended purpose (if that is fighting, a display sword can be as heavy as it wants to be and perfectly fulfill its purpose). What I'm saying is that growing stronger certainly doesn't hurt but it should not be an excuse for sub-par handling characteristics.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 10, 2014 11:58:39 GMT
Nice. You guys sure like the Zwerchhau :lol:
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 7, 2014 15:24:31 GMT
Thanks for the comments, guys!!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 6, 2014 16:03:06 GMT
Very interesting thread. I agree that a glittering, 3 feet long piece of steel will give most people pause. That and the fact that it's practically impossible to get to (or past) a guy with a sword without either a projectile weapon or a similarly long (bladed) instrument and considerable skill makes my sword rack the first place to go should I hear something weird around the house (very few guns around here).
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 5, 2014 17:40:25 GMT
Ever thought about making some good wooden wasters shaped like a real sword (naturally thicker, etc)? Forumite Elheru Aran (wonder what happened to him...) made some very nice wooden wasters that were influenced by historical designs. For partner training those would most certainly be better than round sticks. For light sparring you could then use padded boffer style wasters.
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