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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:19:22 GMT
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:24:12 GMT
I sent the blade out to Peter's Heat Treating and it came back looking like this. Note that the smaller knife is similar to the one in the historical pic.  Started grinding the bevels on the smaller knife.  Started grinding the bevels on the falcata.    SPECIFICATIONS:1) The blade: 0.33" thick, 26" long, S7. Thick & long, overboard, crazy, nuts, "wow this has some weight to it", super cool, "What the heck?!?", devilish for sure 2) The scales: presentation grade curly bastogne walnut with textured aluminum pommel & bolsters. And a chain to connect the ricasso to the curved pommel 3) A wooden sheath Traditionally the falcata had fancy fullers all around the blade, and an animal's head at the pommel. These two details will be left out. This design will focus on chopping power. It has to cut a 2x4 in two chops or less. |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:27:06 GMT
Here is the chop test vid. I was trying to figure out where the sweet spot is and if I could chop with the very front of the blade. The blade still has 1/16" thickness. Well the balance is just where I want it and it chops well from the tip to the point of balance. The most effective part is in the center of the belly which is great. I was hoping it wasn't in the curved area below the belly. BTW: The stump is an old dry Maple that fell exactly 2 years ago. |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:42:09 GMT
To make the bolsters and pommel I used 1" thick block of 6061 T6 aluminum. I wish I had a thinner piece but it's all I had.  Drilling in the pin holes  Cutting it in half  Now to cut the presentation grade curly bastogne walnut scales  One scale cut and it fits like a glove. The aluminum pieces were thinned to 0.285".   |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:44:43 GMT
Shaping the curly bastogne walnut and aluminum scales  Scales are done. Not shown in pics the walnut scales have ridges in-between the 'curly' waves or grain. This happened as I was grinding down the scales with my dremel. Apparently the softer grain wore down faster than the harder grain creating ridges. I kept this thinking it would help with the grip. I might have to show this with a better pic.   Cutting out a couple of curly bastogne walnut boards for the sheath:  0.15" thick G10 liner for the sheath  Gluing the sheath. The second knife was never part of the project, but I did want to finish it before month-end.  |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:45:10 GMT
Cut test videoOne of my sharpest swords.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:48:27 GMT
I protected the edge with nail polish and dipped the whole blade in FeCl.   A rough hand-rubbed finish  And she's all glued up!  Time to make the chain. For this project, I'm tried to add a few features to give it a bit of an aged-ancient look. I used 1/8" OD aluminum rod and cut them to length. Then I used a Dremel to detail the surface and give it a hammered look.  I dip it in FeCl (for a few seconds)  Al oxide coated  Clean it up a bit  She's chained  |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:51:42 GMT
A few more details to give the piece an "aged look". I took a 3/16" copper plate and cut me up some pieces for the belt clip/shoulder strap support and for the fastener.  I ground out a 2" wide gap to slip a belt under the pieces  A few details to give the pieces a hammered look (right = before, left = after)  Dipped the copper in FeCl  Glued the fastener on  Ground out the sheath to fit a thick belt and attached the copper belt clips  |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 5, 2014 18:55:03 GMT
She's done Close-up of the spine  Front side   Back side  Dino print logo  Details on the cutting edge  The chain  She's done  
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Post by Madmartigen on Nov 5, 2014 19:51:27 GMT
Wicked cool! Seriously, looks a killer. AND a very thoughtful craftsmanship.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 5, 2014 21:55:54 GMT
Very nice, clean work!! Looks evil and seems to cut very aggressively! I really like the finish of the spine and the edge, too. One thing I would have done differently is the end of the handle, it seems a bit blocky and slightly on the large side. Some more sculpting would have improved the aesthetics IMO but that's very subjective. Anyway, Karma!
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Nov 6, 2014 4:17:46 GMT
Terrific work and lovely shape, has both a classical and urban industrial look, the chain IMHO is unnecessary and ugly, love the development from the edge to the spine, is the edge hollow ground or is that a light trick ? karma to you  |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 6, 2014 12:26:08 GMT
I agree that the end of the handle is a bit blocky. I left it thick so I could carve our a dragon's head but chickened out since I have never carved before. I didn't want to ruin the sword with a failed carving. Thanks for your kind words and karma!
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 6, 2014 12:32:36 GMT
The edge is convex from ricasso to tip. There is more curvature near the ricasso, and it's much much flatter at the belly of the blade (the business area of the blade). The chain is necessary because most or all falcatas had one, and I did my best to make it look ugly and rough as if it was hammered-forged. I could have bought a new chain but then it wouldn't fit the look of the piece. I guess the need of the chain or look of the chain is not for everyone. I do value your opinion so I thank you for that!
Thanks for the karma!
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Nov 6, 2014 21:41:55 GMT
that thing is a monster ! Niiiice!
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Nov 6, 2014 21:55:13 GMT
My next post will be my monster (custom) broadsword.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Mar 9, 2015 0:56:17 GMT
I also wanted to make the accompanying kukri knife and show it along side of my falcata, but I didn't have the time to complete both. So here are the WIP pics as I complete the 2nd part of my project. So the blade is 90% done at this point, the guard is 6061 T6 aluminum, and the scales and sheath are a fine curly walnut and 0.15" thick black G10. Tracing out the G10 liner  The G10 liner is cut with a Dremel and a steady hand  I'm going to transfer the drawing of the sheath and scales onto the curly walnut  Here is an example of the router and how I cut out the the slot for the scales. Sorry lost the pic for the sheath but it's the same concept.   I sandwiched the G10 with the curly walnut and I epoxy it all together   Before I epoxy anything, I mark the outside to know where the cavity is within the sheath or scales (see pencil marks). Otherwise I might cut too deep when shaping the scales or sheath and expose an opening.  Laying out the pattern over the curly walnut  If you notice I use a Sharpie to mark a grid on the blade. This tells me where the tight spots are. The tight spots rub off the marker, and sometimes I get scratches on the blade. That's why I only go as far as 90% of the grind. Rough cut the scales and sheath   Top and underside view of the scales  . |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Mar 9, 2015 0:58:56 GMT
The scales and sheath have a good fit. Time to shape the guard   Now to grind it flush  And on to hand sanding (800 grit)   . . . . |
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Mar 9, 2015 1:01:11 GMT
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Mar 9, 2015 1:02:55 GMT
This was the original concept  And this is what I wanted to accomplish.  |
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