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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 19:04:50 GMT
Alright, so over the summer, I'll have access to all the tools and supplies I need to make a couple of swords. This will be my first time, but I hope it all goes well. I have a fairly good understanding of the tools I'll need, the time it will take, and the basics of tempering. I'll post pictures when I get around to scanning, but the first sword I want to make - after actually practicing tempering, of course - is a greatsword. I'll give rough dimensions
Blade length - 40 inches Handle length - 9 inches overall length - 50 inches blade width (at base) - 2 inches Blade width (just before tip) - 1 inch tang width (at blade) - 1.5 1.25 inches tang width (at end) - 1 inch hilt/guard - still working on designs
If anyone with experience has any problems with, or advice for these dimensions, please let me know.
The fun thing about this piece, I think, is that I'm planning on putting hand protection of some description on it - don't quite have the designs for that worked out yet, but there have been a couple of things I've been playing with.
I also have plans to post a shorter sword and a dagger when I upload pictures, and I'll write the planned dimensions for them there.
So, like I said, any advice or recommendations would be great.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 23:39:36 GMT
2 hand sword, hilt/guard option number one. Side view, and front view.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2009 18:29:40 GMT
I like it, very snazzy.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 8, 2009 1:37:13 GMT
If you are going to do a full grip over the tang then the tang can be about 7/8" at the blade end, reducing to 1/2", or if you're doing a scale grip then around 1.25" is a comfortable width at the blade end. 1.5 is a bit wide for the grip.
How are you going to be heat treating it may I ask?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 2:05:39 GMT
Alright. I'll take that into consideration. Thanks. As for heat treating, I plan on following the advice of Cris Anderson from this topic: /index.cgi?board=swordmaking&action=display&thread=8042 Now...as far as how to make a properly sized forge...that's not too difficult. Dig a trench approximately 8' long by 8" wide by 10" deep. Pick up some 1 1/2" black iron tubing from home depot (NOT GALVANIZED!!!)...around 7' would do. Drill a line of 1/4" holes in it (you can use a piece of angle iron to make a straight line down the pipe), spaced approximately every 2" or so. You can go closer but I wouldn't go too too much closer. No less than 1". I would NOT go farther, and make DAMN sure whatever spacing you choose, you do it consistently through the whole thing. Next pick up enough fire bricks to line both sides of a 6' long line. If they're 8"x3.5" bricks, you'd need about 42 bricks. Now, you want to place the pipe in the trench with the holes facing up. Then, lay the bricks in in a V shape, with the pipe at the bottom (with enough room between the bases for the holes to be seen). You can use mud to sort of fill in the ends, leaving a smaller 'V' for you to pass the blade through if necessary. You'll also use mud to control your air flow via partially plugging the end...unless your air supply is variable, in which case you just block it off. Fill it with charcoal, hook up your air supply...and voila...a heat treating forge that will handle a 5' blade. Hope that helps =). Cris
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 2:06:41 GMT
Not entirely sure about temperature for tempering, but I'm also not sure what steel I'll be using yet.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 8, 2009 13:01:07 GMT
Also I have to correct you before you go any further. Tempering is the act of heating an already hardened blade to soften it and instill flexibility. You seem to be using it mistakenly to refer to various other acts of heat treating, (just like HUNDREDS of others out there in the industry)
Just to ease communications on here please adopt the following vernacular: "Normalising" - Heating steel up to critical temp (800-900C depending on the type) and soaking then cooling in air to room temp so as to release the stresses in the steel caused during grinding and forging. "Annealing" - Heating steel up to critical temp and very slowly cooling it over several hours to achieve a softened state "Queching" - heating the steel up to critical temp and quenching it in a cooling medium to harden. "Tempering" - heating an already hardened blade to soften it and instill flexibility, done at 200 - 400C "Heat Treating" - the overall process involving all or selected number of the above.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 15:43:02 GMT
Sorry I misinterpreted the question. I assumed "how" to mean "by what means" not "what processes are you going to take" so, let me explain.
All of these require somewhere to actually heat up the steel, which, as of right now, I have nowhere to do, which is where Cris's forge comes in handy. I need a place to actually heat the steel before I can do... umm... anything with it. I'm more concerned about step one right now rather than about step five for me.
But, since you insist,
I plan on " "Annealing" - Heating steel up to critical temp and very slowly cooling it over several hours to achieve a softened state" so that I can shape the steel with a grinder, then " "Normalizing" - Heating steel up to critical temp (800-900C depending on the type) and soaking then cooling in air to room temp so as to release the stresses in the steel caused during grinding" probably a couple of times before " "Quenching" - heating the steel up to critical temp and quenching it in a cooling medium to harden" followed by " "Tempering" - heating an already hardened blade to soften it and instill flexibility, done at 200 - 400C"
Hows that for " "Heat Treating" - the overall process involving all or selected number of the above" ?
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 8, 2009 23:26:52 GMT
Yeah I did really mean what equipment are you going to be using. Forges are hard to get an even spread of temperature over a long area. Ive nevber been able to heat more than about a 15" blade to critical evenly in mine. But if you manage that huge one well, you'll figure out ways of doing it. The other problem being trying to judge heat by colour, or magnets. When you get more serious about doing it, if you enjoy it, you can make a kiln for a few hundred bucks, such as seen here: /index.cgi?board=forgetools&action=display&thread=5863&page=1 To address your previous question: Not entirely sure about temperature for tempering, but I'm also not sure what steel I'll be using yet. A lot of the guys recite 232C / 450F, as a good tempering heat. 2 cycles of 60 to 80 minutes. That should give about 56Rc. Personally I prefer to temper at around 300C / 580F for 2 cycles of 60 - 80 minutes. It's still plenty hard (~51 to 52Rc) but I rather err on the side of resilience rather than edge holding. If you really want a resilient beater you could go as far as 400C / 750F for the 2 cycles. That will take it down to about 46 or 47Rc.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2009 5:46:09 GMT
Well, I'll have to try it on a forge until I have the money for a kiln, and may end up just completely remaking the sword when I get a kiln.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2009 21:57:35 GMT
nice sword good luck on your project
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Post by genocideseth on Aug 13, 2009 2:50:54 GMT
Alright. I'll take that into consideration. Thanks. As for heat treating, I plan on following the advice of Cris Anderson from this topic: /index.cgi?board=swordmaking&action=display&thread=8042 Now...as far as how to make a properly sized forge...that's not too difficult. Dig a trench approximately 8' long by 8" wide by 10" deep. Pick up some 1 1/2" black iron tubing from home depot (NOT GALVANIZED!!!)...around 7' would do. Drill a line of 1/4" holes in it (you can use a piece of angle iron to make a straight line down the pipe), spaced approximately every 2" or so. You can go closer but I wouldn't go too too much closer. No less than 1". I would NOT go farther, and make DAMN sure whatever spacing you choose, you do it consistently through the whole thing. Next pick up enough fire bricks to line both sides of a 6' long line. If they're 8"x3.5" bricks, you'd need about 42 bricks. Now, you want to place the pipe in the trench with the holes facing up. Then, lay the bricks in in a V shape, with the pipe at the bottom (with enough room between the bases for the holes to be seen). You can use mud to sort of fill in the ends, leaving a smaller 'V' for you to pass the blade through if necessary. You'll also use mud to control your air flow via partially plugging the end...unless your air supply is variable, in which case you just block it off. Fill it with charcoal, hook up your air supply...and voila...a heat treating forge that will handle a 5' blade. Hope that helps =). Cris Hey my old thread. That was some good advice. Anyway, I would suggest taking a little advice form Brendan as well. As he is probably one of my top 5 favorite sword makers for a few reasons. Also nice design! Cool to know someone else who favors huge swords like I do. Although I recommend making a few knives first. Something I was frequently told. As it will give you a feel for it. And you can craft a few of your favorite knife shapes as well. If a knife is too small, try a machete length sword. ;D
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2009 4:27:07 GMT
I think that the design of the handle guard is going to limit your movement, you might be better off making it one complete guard rather than two smaller ones.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2009 1:03:53 GMT
I would like that sword so much if it didn't have the gaurds on the grip.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2009 18:19:06 GMT
i like it, i would extend and curve up the hilt on the back edge so if a blade slid down to the hilt it wouldnt just slip over and hack ur wrist but its tight i like it.
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