Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2009 15:34:35 GMT
Good day everyone I spent some of my day tryng to cut targets in the backyard, only with partial success. This is what i got: 2 liter water bottle: 1.5 Liter juice bottles: Failed. I did manage to break the surface, but they were just batted away and became unuseable for a second attempt. No doubt- My sword needs some sharpening, not something serious. I saw some threads and the guide about the accusharp, but everyone are only mentioning windlass swords, mostly longswords and such. My sword is a Katana, i'd like to know if any of you tried using an accusharp&abarsive paper on a katana, and how did it work. I plan on giving it some sharpening (Just a bit, it's already sharp, just not quite enough), and polishing it with 1200&2500 grit abarsive paper. If any of you tried something similar. i'll be glad to hear your opinions and if possible- see some pictures. Thanks.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2009 21:21:23 GMT
PLEASE!!! DO NOT USE AN ACCUSHARP ON A KATANA! An accusharp will destroy the single bevel that is supposed to be there and put a double beveled edge there. It will wreck the cutting geometry. If you say your sword is already sharp, what do you mean sharp? Will it slice paper or does it rip it as you try to cut the sheet? I am wondering if it is not a lack of sharpness but perhaps a lack of correct angle that is causing your sword to not pass threw your targets cleanly. If you believe that your Katana requires some additional sharpness may I refer you to some techniques that do work. Hybrid Polish for KatanaThe Best Page on the Internet for Hybrid PolishingNihonzashi Dojo's page on Sword PolishingGreat videos on Convex Knife Sharpening These apply to the shape of a katana's edge or the Ji so it is called. Hope that helps.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2009 21:32:29 GMT
Kind of hard to define what "sharp" is- No, it does not slice paper easily like in the videos seen on youtube, but if i put a little pressure, it does CUT through it rather than ripping it. Takes a bit of effort, though. (Should i upload a video to demonstrate? it's really hard to describe it properly with words) I doubt it's my technique that prevents it from going through my targets- I managed to cut the 2 Liter bottle in a single cut, but failed 3 times with the 1.5L ones. Well, i'm dropping the accusharp idea right here and now, a cosmetic damage is something i can get over, but i really don't want to mess up the blade geometry. I guess i'll try the hybrid polishing methods on some pieces of scrap metal or cheap knives to train, and then polish my sword. But before all that- I think i'll try some more cuts to see if it is indeed my form or technique that is lacking. Tanks a lot, you probably saved me a lot of trouble.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2009 21:48:07 GMT
Sure upload a vid. That will help for sure.
Now just a little question about your targets. Are these plastic bottles empty or filled with water when you are attempting to cut them? Empties are immensely more more difficult to cut than water fulled bottles due to the lack of mass.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2009 21:51:11 GMT
Filled with water, of course. An empty bottle would be nearly impossible to cut unless the blade is razor sharp and the user VERY skilled. I'm only home-trained, due to total lack of Iaido schools in my country. For the record, the bottle i failed to cut was an RCQ pet bottle, i think it's slightly thicker than the water bottle as well. Video coming up shortly. Video is up: rapidshare.com/files/205410690/PICT004.avi.htmlsorry, i didn't set up my youtube profile yet, although i do have an account.... You can see when i try to slice the paper in the part the sword is in my hand, it goes well 'till somewhere around the middle, then it gets stuck, and from there the paper just gets ripped, not cut.
|
|
|
Post by k on Mar 4, 2009 23:52:04 GMT
I doubt it's my technique that prevents it from going through my targets- I managed to cut the 2 Liter bottle in a single cut, but failed 3 times with the 1.5L ones. With the same sword? If so, is´nt that an indication that it is not a matter of sharpness? If you are rather new to cutting (like me) it is very possible it´s a lack of technique. ( And I don´t think this thread should be in the customization room)
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2009 0:00:19 GMT
Not something that is known on the forums, kind of nameless. I do have details i obtained from lab tests and proffesional evaluation, though, please reffer to this thread: /index.cgi?board=japaneseswords&action=display&thread=8983&page=3
Yes, i am indeed new to practical cutting, my expirience sums up to ~7 months of training with a bokken. And the thread was originally about the accusharp, a short search found another thread about it here on the same forum, this thread isn't really fitting to one of the other forums as well, IMO.....
EDIT- well, i stil have the part in the picture in my room, so i just tried something- I tried holding it and stabbing it- it went right in with barely any effort. From that point, i started moving sideways. ...........it sails thorugh like a knife in hot butter. I'm really starting to think i should train more.... bleh....
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2009 16:01:07 GMT
Yes, i am indeed new to practical cutting, my expirience sums up to ~7 months of training with a bokken. I'm really starting to think i should train more.... bleh.... Thanks for realizing that. I just finished looking at your video. When slicing (as these swords are meant to do), your Katana seems plenty sharp enough to sail clean through plastic bottles. True enough it is not the sharpest that I have seen but for bottles it's plenty sharp. I also noticed your sword does not have a Bo-Hi. Bo-Hi would easily tell if your edge angle is correct or not. I know, I know, some people don't like Bo-Hi on there swords. But in my opinion it, is one of the greatest training aids for teaching correct edge angle and alignment. Also the grip you have on the Tsuka plays a very important part to the control you have over the edge's angle of entry and in the follow threw. Along with that is body position and especially relaxation. If I may, here are a couple of links that may help as you say that there is no Dojo close to you. Our own ChopChop did an excellent article on Basic Draw and CutHere is on on Push, Pull BasicsAlso Kendo no Shiori practice fundamentals is a good read And this article talks about Chiburi and NotoHope this is helping
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2009 16:14:39 GMT
I wouldn't say "there isn't any dojo close to me", there aren't any Iaido schools in my country. Only 1 kendo dojo, and not a really good one either... Thanks a lot, guess i'll just keep on practicing, My sword is folded steel so it's kind of heavy, might be that i'm lacking a bit of arm strength as well.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2009 16:46:42 GMT
Folded Steel = Bad. You can easily bend folded steel swords, on a bad cut. I didn't read everything so I dont know if you mentioned who makes the sword. What I would do it practice, and it helped me a ton when people suggested that when I cut I pull with my bottom hand and push with the top hand as I am swinging threw the cut.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2009 17:04:24 GMT
It's properly hardened, DH'd as well, and i don't really use it on anything harder than plastic bottles/pool noodles. I know it's not the best choice for a cutter, so i made this specific sword into a light cutter. That aside, i'm already utilizing that advice, though i don't really have a way to check if i'm doing it properly, so..... Back to training.
|
|