Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2009 4:22:48 GMT
Hey people, so I decided that I didn't like the cold steel trail hawk, I hate that black finish, it always chips and rubs off in throwing and the overall design has grown dull in my opinion. Sooo, I'm going to completely reshape the blade, refinish it and slap a false patina on it. Here's how they look at start. Or at least they're supposed to look like that, mine came with a sort of "curdled" look on the face of the blades, so essentially there's pits all over it. Which has proven to be a pain to remove thus far. But I bought myself a file and pulled out some old sandpaper and this is how far I got with the help of a grinder and the said tools. It is very rough right now, I have yet to finish smoothing the face(my back and hands are killing me) but I hope to be finished with the head by the friday or so. Then I'll order a couple replacement handles and do some customizing on those as well. Oh! I also stumbled upon an electric engraving tool today! edit: I'm also contemplating whether I want to make the bridge between the edge and the eye even thinner than it is, but I can't quite decide.
|
|
Avery
Member
Manufacturer/Vendor
"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
Posts: 1,826
|
Post by Avery on Feb 15, 2009 4:46:00 GMT
Man, I see what you mean about the bevel. In factory pics, I never noticed how narrow they make them now. Looks good so far, though I think I'd personally leave the bridge as it is. You know, a saltwater etch on the sides would look pretty cool after your ready seal the head. Assuming of course your going to seal it and not paint it. + 1 for an interesting project.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2009 4:52:09 GMT
|
|
Avery
Member
Manufacturer/Vendor
"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
Posts: 1,826
|
Post by Avery on Feb 15, 2009 5:00:15 GMT
1/2" is a good rule of thumb on standard axes. I"ve got some almost an inch wide, but the one I use in comps. is about a 1/4". 'course its a thnner blade.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2009 5:03:05 GMT
Yeah these are pretty thin though, so while I don't like it, it makes a bit more sense than a half inch. Seeing your axe in the sharpening video, the "old reliable"? Off of ragnar's? It is about 2x thicker than the CS trail hawk.
|
|
Avery
Member
Manufacturer/Vendor
"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
Posts: 1,826
|
Post by Avery on Feb 15, 2009 14:50:35 GMT
Actually that axe was picked up at a local trade faire for $25. It was hand made by one of the blacksmiths who set up there. I just never got around to sharpening it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2009 18:21:50 GMT
Oh! It looked just like this I thought
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2009 23:53:44 GMT
Hey, I finished one side, after finally finding my handheld belt sander. I'm not sure if I want to try and make it smoother than this though. I'm going to check and see what grit of belt sander strips I can get that'll smooth it out better than 80.
|
|
SlayerofDarkness
Member
Review Points: 65
"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
Posts: 3,067
|
Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 16, 2009 0:05:42 GMT
Very nice, Ken! +1, great work.
-Slayer
|
|
Avery
Member
Manufacturer/Vendor
"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
Posts: 1,826
|
Post by Avery on Feb 16, 2009 0:25:02 GMT
Oh! It looked just like this I thought Nope, its patterned after a "reliable" but its thicker and just a bit shorter. as for your remodel it looks awesome! The sanding you've done so far is is enough if you don't plan to throw alot, but knowing you I don't think that's going to be the case. I'd say polish the crap out of it, get rid of any indentions that can retain dirt and start rust. The next grit I'd suggest is 100, and finish it off with 120. Thats worked for me in the past, but I'll tell ya it takes alot of patience. Then again, if you don't miss, no dirt involved! Just messin with ya.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 0:48:11 GMT
lol, yeah I throw just about every day, wind, rain, sub zero temperatures, I'm there! There's only oneee pit area that I can't friggen get to, right underneath the hammer poll it's still black in the little crevice. I'll have to go in and manually work it with sand paper. I think I'll go over it for a while with some 160 grit and then patina it, because once it's patina'd it's not going to get damaging rust no matter how much dirt, poop and water gets on it. Did I say poop?! Oh and I finished the other side, I need to wait before I start at it with sandpaper my back is killing me!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 8:54:14 GMT
Well I went over it with 160 grit, then proceeded to patina it with vinegar. Though the results are...weaker, than I expected. I left it in for about 2 hours, three maybe. I doubt it'll do much but I'm going to put it in again tomorrow while I work on my other trail hawk. Any suggestions on how to get it dark, without paint of course.
|
|
SlayerofDarkness
Member
Review Points: 65
"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
Posts: 3,067
|
Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 16, 2009 15:02:40 GMT
How about cold blueing? -Slayer
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 16:42:12 GMT
Aren't you supposed to run a current through the dip so that it adheres correctly/
|
|
SlayerofDarkness
Member
Review Points: 65
"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
Posts: 3,067
|
Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 16, 2009 16:48:04 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 17:41:22 GMT
Aren't you supposed to run a current through the dip so that it adheres correctly/ Through the vinegar? I don't know, I hunt down a 9v battery and some wires and try. edit I'm going to try to boil it in the vinegar before I do anything else.
|
|
SlayerofDarkness
Member
Review Points: 65
"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
Posts: 3,067
|
Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 16, 2009 17:58:37 GMT
Hey, Ken. Did you get my latest PM? -Slayer
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 18:35:37 GMT
Yes.
And it's still in the pot, fizzling away. But I learned something the past few days, cold steel uses two different types of steel on these axes. There's a line for the hammer poll and for the edge where I'm guessing they use a higher carbon content in the steel because it blackens much quicker than the rest of the body.
Fricken modern forging methods X|
|
|
Avery
Member
Manufacturer/Vendor
"It's alright little brother... There are more!!!
Posts: 1,826
|
Post by Avery on Feb 17, 2009 0:23:55 GMT
Yeah, the only way I know to make it work well is to run some kind of current through it. Not saying there are other ways, I just don't know of them.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 0:46:15 GMT
Well I went ahead and boiled it just to try it, I like the way it turned out, though still not "black" but it's pretty dark. I've been throwing it since this morning, getting a hang of the new weight and checking to see how durable the fake patina is, not very durable but I like the rubbed off look it produced. in the pot and a comparison shot it is a bit darker than this in person but, whatever
|
|