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Post by genocideseth on Feb 5, 2009 22:07:17 GMT
I was thinking of doing something similar to brenno. Buy a cheap re-enactment sword and sharpen it. I figure it would give me experience, along with a sword. I noticed this particular swords has three fullers. My idea is to turn the two outer fullers into edges. If it is successful, I will have something close to a hollow ground convex grind.
What is your opinions?
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Post by 293master293 on Feb 5, 2009 22:31:36 GMT
I like the idea. How would you go about sharpening it? Grinder I presume? If so, just make sure the steel doesn't get too hot and you should be fine.
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Post by genocideseth on Feb 5, 2009 22:41:07 GMT
Yea, when I was grinding my other steel, I would drip snow on it to keep it cool.
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SlayerofDarkness
Member
Review Points: 65
"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
Posts: 3,067
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 5, 2009 23:44:25 GMT
Seth, before you buy it PM me. I have to go eat dinner so I can't find the link right now, but I think I saw that sword somewhere for $65...
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Post by genocideseth on Feb 5, 2009 23:56:17 GMT
PM sent.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Feb 6, 2009 0:54:02 GMT
If I had to do it again (and I would) - I would use a belt sander with very low grit to do the majority of the stock removal. You can remove a fair bit of meat without generating too much heat. You can get quite a few passes done before dipping in coolant. Keep a naked hand on the back of the blade and you'll feel the heat build. Always use full length passes BTW.
Keep the beltsander away from the tip however. Maybe shape it close, but as the tip gets close to fining up it can get hot REAL fast. In that case finish it off with files, and hand sanding etc. But for the blade edges I would use the low grit belt to get it down to about a 0.7mm edge, then tidy up the marks with 80 -> 120 -> 180 grits. Always keeping it from getting hot. Then drawfile it down til it's final sharp edge, and finish off hand sanding.
With this model of sword the tripple fullers into the tip may make the crafting of the tip interesting. But otherwise get out of your chair and go right ahead. I look forward to seeing your results.
I did this with the hand and half, and the viking, But they were the older models without the fullers. The only reason I didn't do the knightly was because the old model had the ridges down the fuller I was worried about damaging, and the new one has the funny tip.
Good Luck!
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Post by genocideseth on Feb 6, 2009 4:37:38 GMT
Thanks Brendan! I was also wondering about the hand and a half as well, but they are out of stock. I like the hand and a half better though, as people say it has better handling.
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Post by genocideseth on Feb 6, 2009 6:34:03 GMT
Once again, inspiration from Brendan may lead to me owning a sword or two... Maybe you should stop inspiring me so I can pick up the Sword of Whispering Woods finally... +1 when I recharge man!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2009 7:11:50 GMT
Buy an older model single fuller, I think trying to sharpen one of the new relatively stupid hollow ground ones would be quite difficult.
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Post by genocideseth on Feb 6, 2009 7:20:07 GMT
Yea, my plans changed to a different model. You guys will see when it is done. I am stoked... That is all... ;D
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2009 2:17:27 GMT
My idea is to turn the two outer fullers into edges. If it is successful, I will have something close to a hollow ground convex grind. What is your opinions? I don't think you will be too happy with the results. If you want a cheap sharp sword of that style for about the same money get the CAS Iberia Lionheart from Blade Matrix. I have it. I have reviewed tested and reviewed both these swords on my website: mysite.verizon.net/tsafa1/swordreview.htm
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Post by genocideseth on Feb 8, 2009 2:26:38 GMT
I was thinking about that one as well (For my pal). But I am also thinking of getting it for a training blunt. Depending or not if I can get some SCA/WMA training going on here.
I am also thinking the Hand and a Half as it has great reviews.
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