|
Post by k on Feb 4, 2009 9:58:47 GMT
Have anyone here used rust for surface finish on iron/steel? Or anyone who knows anything about it.
How is natural rusting done best? Just put it outside and let it rust? Should the rust be sanded down in intervalls or should the rust be left alone to develope by itself without doing anything to it? It could be stabilized in someway I think, how is that done? In chemically rusting you have to use acids that are hard to buy and so on if I got that right, if at all allowed. I would prefere not.
How about other alternatives besides rusting or painting black on f.ex. a tsuba; any suggestions. Heat it with oil on is said to blacken iron, instead of blueing it. Could that be done in an owen or is that to low temperature?
Have searched on the net but have´nt found anything concrete and usable about this.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2009 12:58:43 GMT
You can read a little here. www.taganearts.com/alloyfinish2.htmlMy version would be to sand it thoroughly with sandpaper, rust it in a salt solution or seawater, take it up and rub it with your greasy hands until it's even, make new rust layers and repeat process until happy. Boil it with tree bark, birk is OK. Then rubbing with bees wax. Painting a tsuba is best done with quality spray laquer. Before painting you sand and remove any grease with a grease remover. Don't use too fine grit, or the paint won't stick. 240 grit should do. I had my tsubas floss because I used too fine grit. Leave the painted object to rest in a dust free environment for a couple of days. Iron can also be blued with gun blueing. Copper can be patinated with baking soda (natron) for a natural brown colour, or liver of sulphur for a grey/blue colour, but both need to be coated afterwards.
|
|
|
Post by k on Feb 4, 2009 15:07:05 GMT
Ok. thanks Ichiban, that is a useful answer(good karma;). Saltwater sounds logical and I had´nt heard that about birch bark before. I have plenty of that. I´ll test it and see if the layer of rust makes details disappear to much. I don´t think so though, and if there are any details left after I´m done with my filing;)
I´m not sure how blueing would look on a tsuba. I have never seen that.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2009 16:21:36 GMT
Birch bark is used for skin preservation, so it contains tannic acids. The sami uses selje (the swedish name is sälg) to preserve skins. You could probably boil it in a tannin rich red wine too, and have a glass while it finishes.
|
|
slav
Member
Senior Forumite
Katsujin No Ken
Posts: 4,457
|
Post by slav on Feb 4, 2009 16:34:54 GMT
A great way to patinate your fittings is to wipe them with (or drop them into) FeCL. It will oxidize immediately, but will stay clean and nice looking rather than dirty rust. Example, my kashira: Before. Just plain steel in the white: ] After patination with FeCl. Took 10 minutes:
|
|
|
Post by k on Feb 4, 2009 16:37:52 GMT
You could probably boil it in a tannin rich red wine too, and have a glass while it finishes. Yea, that sounds better than have to drink the birch bark water
|
|
|
Post by k on Feb 4, 2009 16:40:41 GMT
A great way to patinate your fittings is to wipe them with (or drop them into) FeCL. It will oxidize immediately, but will stay clean and nice looking rather than dirty rust. Example, my kashira: It looks real nice, and seems easy. Where do you buy FeCL? We don´t have drug stores. The pharmacist ought to have it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2009 12:32:52 GMT
A great way to patinate your fittings is to wipe them with (or drop them into) FeCL. It will oxidize immediately, but will stay clean and nice looking rather than dirty rust. Example, my kashira.... Slavia, Wow! That's a great patination technique! I love the way that kashira turned out! Never heard of using FeCl before. I assume you oil or wax the item afterwards? How do you think it would work on larger items, such as basket hilts? I'm planning to fabricate shell-hilts for a couple of cutlass blades soon, and that is exactly the kind of finish I want! Please, have a karma! Cheers Marc E
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2009 14:11:10 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2009 20:37:23 GMT
I'm not trying to hijack this thread or get too far off the original topic, but what about stainless steel sword fittings? Is there a patination process or special chemicals for stainless steel?
|
|