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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2008 3:48:27 GMT
Well, I finally got started on customizing my Hanwei claymore. I had two goals in mind for this project:
1. Regripping with Rayskin 2. Etching Celtic Knotwork/Cirth Runes
Now I am happy to report I have completed the first step, and I am taking the sword to the local print shop tomorrow to get it sized for the final stencils (they actually asked me to bring it in). I have my final etch designs ready and on a thumb drive to take up with me...so I should be able to spend a day etching before the end of the week and this project will be done.
The rayskin regripping was a bit of a nerve wracking task, as it was unlike anything I've ever done before. I was basically running blind, and it didn't go off without a hitch, but I will go into that tomorrow when I start adding photos to this thread. Still, I'm very pleased with the end results and I am so glad I took the dive and tried it.
-Jonathan
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2008 4:16:51 GMT
Looking forward to the photos!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2008 0:21:22 GMT
The first step of course was to remove the existing leather. It came off easily except for where it met the crossguard, and it had to be cut out of that spot to get it off. I started with this lovely hide I bought from adamunlimited.com. All I knew was that I wanted to go from this, to a rayskin grip. Everything between A and Z had to be made up on the fly. I used the original leather from my claymore to make a pattern on tissue paper. I placed the paper on the claymore to see where I wanted the mother of pearl to be, and marked a few dots to help me line it up on the hide. Then I marked the skin with a piece of white chalk. It went on nicely, but came off far too easily. I had to be careful not to move it much as I cut, as I came very close to loosing the chalk marks before I was done cutting. With the grip piece extracted, it was time to start fitting. First I cut it to match the length, which was quite easy. But, when I was trimming it to width, I made the mistake of using the original leather as a guide. Turns out, as the rayskin is much thicker, I ended up with half of it matching perfectly and half of it cut short. So, I decided I'd deal with that later and just focus on getting it in place. The first night I glued it only on the "front" (the side with the mother of pearl), and let the epoxy cure overnight. I wrapped the whole grip in some old ace bandage and taped it on, which put even pressure on the skin and helped mold it into shape nicely. The next day I glued one side of the remaining skin and let it set overnight again. The next day, I glued the other side in the morning and patched up the gap in the back with spare trimmings that evening. And here's the finished product. I got the mother of pearl exactly where I wanted it. The back on the other hand didn't turn out quite so awesome. I had to fill it in with a few tiny strips of rayskin, and then seal the whole seam with epoxy to smooth it out. Still, as it's not the display side of the grip, I think it's fair enough. So, as for the most important part, how it feels...nothing short of amazing. The grip will NOT slip in my hands one bit, yet it doesn't feel rough or abrasive either. Overall, I'm exceptionally pleased with the result and can't wait to try cutting with it, hopefully tomorrow if the weather improves. -Jonathan
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Post by 293master293 on Dec 16, 2008 0:28:06 GMT
Looks much better than I thought it would, and is quite an improvement over the last grip. +1 to you.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2008 20:54:34 GMT
Thank you very much. I managed to get it into the print shop today and took care of buisness, I should get the stencils to etch it by the end of the week. It's going to run about $75, which overall isn't bad as I'm etching both the crossguard and quite a bit of the blade. I'll be posting another set of pics as soon as I finish up the task...
-Jonathan
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2008 23:08:29 GMT
Good work so far!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2008 0:30:39 GMT
Nice! I like the inset! Good to hear that it improves the 'gripability', for want of a better word. I'm seriously thinking of getting a Hanwei claymore myself, and a grip re-wrap will be on the to-do list. I never would have thought of rayskin, however. +1 to you!
Oh, btw, are Hanwei still pinning the blade through the langets on this sword? It's hard to tell from the pictures. Weird thing to do.....
Cheers
Marc
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2008 4:07:39 GMT
Yes they are poohze, at least on mine there is a large pin through the tips of the langets (not sure how recent mine is).
I'm not all that impressed by the idea of a european sword made in China, but this blade is sturdy and quite managable (to me at least). So, no regrets for picking it as my personal sword.
I can't rave about rayskin enough, it's an amazing material. Just make sure you get the right stuff, tanned and lightly sanded to remove the rough denticles. I got mine from adamunlimited.com, and can say by experience it's the right thing for this job. I've also seen european swords wrapped in heavily sanded rayskin, which seems interesting but I don't know if it would have much grip to it (never held any like that).
-Jonathan
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2008 13:00:13 GMT
Thanks for the info on the pin, Jonathon. I know it turns some people right off, but I don't know that it'd stop me buying the sword.... I really can't understand why they do it that way, though. I've seen rayskin, and sometimes sharkskin, used on western sabers and basket-hilts, but never on a two-hander. I really like the idea, though! Not sure where I'd get it here in Oz, but it's probably available somewhere. I could always get my father-in-law to take me fishing.... Thanks again for sharing your project! Marc E
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2009 14:30:43 GMT
I did exactly the same thing on a hunting knife! www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/840703/And I did a few experiences that I will tell you guys. First, the skin shrinks a bit from the glue! I had made it perfect in size and lined it up perfectly, gluing it in stages like you. But in the end there was a little gap on the backside just like for you! If I did it again I would make the piece in raw length and glue in stages like you and not cut until the last moment! And make sure to press out every drop of glue from under the skin, otherwise the surface may be uneven when you put pressure on like you did, it did for me at least... And if there comes any epoxy on the skin it will fill up between the pearls and look really really sad... Wipe away any excessive glue with spirit or solvent! The Casco epoxy I used got better strength and many times shorter hardening time if it was hardened under heat, but think about that it will run much lighter when it gets hot! Beware of running glue that sicks everywhere, and also that when the glue is light running it won't hold the glud objects together at all!! Hope this helps! And rayskin really gives an awesome grip, good work and thanks for the idea Jonathan!!
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