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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2008 1:32:02 GMT
man ive watched this video a bunch of times now
this is easily the best non-katana cutting video i have seen
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 9, 2008 4:51:56 GMT
Heh, heh, heh... Tom, one word of advice (in best Japanese accent)... "No noto with double edged sword... Or no knuckle for long." ;D OH REAAAAALY? once this vid is done processing please watch it. yeah it's a silly thing, but you know what? it works. if I had a shorter blade I could even do it without that funky angle and it would look better. please notice I did do this without looking at it. ;D
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Post by ShooterMike on Dec 9, 2008 14:57:13 GMT
Hey Tom, please try that technique with various historic medieval suspension systems. I think it won't work well without using the scabbard-through-the-belt Japanese style of carry.
Also, please try it with a later medieval sword of flattened diamond cross section with no fuller. I'm not saying it won't work. It's an interesting take. I'm just a little skeptical until I see it.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2008 15:12:28 GMT
Or fingers!
I think the more advanced noto that some JSA members do (direct return, with little to no guidance) might be better suited to these swords. Surrounding the blade with the hand was cringe worthy. Nevertheless, interesting approach Tom +1
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 9, 2008 16:54:55 GMT
Mike, I'll have to get some historical suspension systems before I can try it, but I think it would work ok. as long as you can reach the throat of the scabbard and bring your blade in from the palm side of the hand should work fine. in fact I think some of the low-sitting ones might even be easier since that would better accomodate longer blades.
one of the swords I used in this video was my Windlass Late Spanish Sword which was my last review. it is a flatened diamond with no fuller. I put my thumb on the center ridge and placed my finger tips just under the center ridge on the opposite side. worked fine. I would worry about flattened hex shaped swords with no fuller though, as there would be no center of the blade landmark. fortunately there doesn't seem to be many of those around.
the tricks: you need only just barely touch the blade with your left hand/fingers it's the right hand that holds the sword in place and makes any adjustments. the left hand is only sensing where the blade is; a substitute for your eyes. if the whole of the fingers are used instead of the tips one needs to hold the fingers straight so that the center ridge is the only part of the blade touching you. that will keep the edge away from your skin. this is what Debbie was seeing that made her cringe I think. not to worry Deb, I practiced all this with the blunt swords first.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2008 18:22:44 GMT
Good inazumagiri (lightning cut)! Not bad for a straight sword! Nice extension and hip rotation. Actually, inazumagiri may be easier with a single-handed cut rather than two-handed. I'll have to try that out.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2008 0:27:50 GMT
Wow!....just.......Wow!
+1 from a noob.
Marc
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2008 18:17:33 GMT
In "real" WMA of course, there is no record of cutting from the scabbard. I believe that one master covers doing a parry from the draw, but IMHO they all assume that you have time to draw, and wouldn't do something as unchivalrous as to rely on the element of surprise.
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Post by ShooterMike on Dec 12, 2008 18:50:46 GMT
I have issues with that. This is a shorter Type XVIII sword, much like the "Henry V" sword. These were frequently seen as secondary or even tertiary weapons on the battlefield and in armoured duels. One account I read recommended something like "a good sword, not long in the blade, carried at the belt in a metal ring so it can be drawn quickly if mounted combat moves onto the ground and the lance and ax are lost or broken."
I would see the circumstances in medieval combat, where this would be used, as being in the midst of a fight. Sort of the medieval equivalent of modern "transition training" where a combatant immediately drops a non-functioning weapon on its sling and draws a secondary weapon to continue the fight.
I have only seen techniques like that depicted in period manuals where they involved the use of daggers. But I admit to not being very widely experienced with period manuals.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2008 18:06:18 GMT
Very snappy! I haven't seen this good of cutting from someone humbly expressing so much inadequacy! I think you did something very interesting here S.Mike and I agree with your above. This would have immeasurable value when switching to a second weapon during an actual battle.
Exellent!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2008 20:13:02 GMT
What were you cutting and where would I go about getting some?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2008 21:05:40 GMT
What were you cutting and where would I go about getting some? That's a roll of Japanese tatami mats, used in the JSA practice of tameshigiri: www.tameshigiri.com/
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2009 13:06:14 GMT
Shooter, that's amazing! I'm unqualified to comment on the cutting itself (haven't even tried cutting yet), but I'll be watching that many times. I have to agree with Hillronin that you've done something very interesting (in way of advancing/recovering WMA knowledge). You wrote that a somewhat shorter sword worked better, then later went on to write: 'This is a shorter Type XVIII sword, much like the "Henry V" sword. These were frequently seen as secondary or even tertiary weapons on the battlefield and in armoured duels." I've seen the Type XVIII swords referred to as Arming swords, and even read of them as casual (daily) swords for nobles. So it seems the type's roll may have been much wider than I appreciated: being both a back-up in battle, and a convenient self-defence in daily business. Thanks for posting this!
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