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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2008 22:35:04 GMT
johnlundemo, I had read on SFI you quench into water then into oil qoute "I do a snap quench in hot oil after water quench and straighten."? Could you elaborate more on that? I thought you meant by your title post that you had done it only in water alone. Did the japanese use oil as well traditionally? Hi The snap quench they call it is used alot. What happens is the water brings out the full hardness and before totally cool, while blade is still steaming you can emerse in hot oil around 400 and pull it out and fix whatever warpage there is before fulley cooled to room temp. Don't have much time. After totally cool then I do a tempering cycle. I always polish the drawfile the edge and dress it before I do the clay coat and make sure all the sanding grains near the edge are running parrallel to edge. This to insure that a crack has no place to start in the quench. This will help in pure water or heavy brine quenching. This is good stuff. I had to heat treat my osoraku tanto twice, and using this method it lived through both without issue. This was quenching initially in diluted brine and into heated vegetable oil. To be honest...I'm in the process of looking for a tank I can use the oil in horizontally as the turkey fryer I'm using now won't handle more than a 15" edge length blade or so. Then I get to try the technique on longer blades. I can't see why it's not more commonly used to be honest. You get most of the best attributes of water, with some of the safety of oil. Pretty hard thing to argue with. Cris
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Post by johnlundemo1 on Dec 9, 2008 2:08:13 GMT
Hi The snap quench they call it is used alot. What happens is the water brings out the full hardness and before totally cool, while blade is still steaming you can emerse in hot oil around 400 and pull it out and fix whatever warpage there is before fulley cooled to room temp. Don't have much time. After totally cool then I do a tempering cycle. I always polish the drawfile the edge and dress it before I do the clay coat and make sure all the sanding grains near the edge are running parrallel to edge. This to insure that a crack has no place to start in the quench. This will help in pure water or heavy brine quenching. This is good stuff. I had to heat treat my osoraku tanto twice, and using this method it lived through both without issue. This was quenching initially in diluted brine and into heated vegetable oil. To be honest...I'm in the process of looking for a tank I can use the oil in horizontally as the turkey fryer I'm using now won't handle more than a 15" edge length blade or so. Then I get to try the technique on longer blades. I can't see why it's not more commonly used to be honest. You get most of the best attributes of water, with some of the safety of oil. Pretty hard thing to argue with. Cris Speaking of water quench, there is a post in SFI from Karl J. of a 1075 katana water quenched odin, that you might like to see. Has natural sori and tons of activity in hamon. It was stone polished. Check it aout!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2008 3:21:45 GMT
This is good stuff. I had to heat treat my osoraku tanto twice, and using this method it lived through both without issue. This was quenching initially in diluted brine and into heated vegetable oil. To be honest...I'm in the process of looking for a tank I can use the oil in horizontally as the turkey fryer I'm using now won't handle more than a 15" edge length blade or so. Then I get to try the technique on longer blades. I can't see why it's not more commonly used to be honest. You get most of the best attributes of water, with some of the safety of oil. Pretty hard thing to argue with. Cris Speaking of water quench, there is a post in SFI from Karl J. of a 1075 katana water quenched odin, that you might like to see. Has natural sori and tons of activity in hamon. It was stone polished. Check it aout! Is that the 'drying pole' over on his board John? I'll be honest with you...I didn't know you did much in the way of Japanese stuff until I saw it all gathered on Karl's site lol. I mean I did, but it just didn't click for some reason. As I've said here and elsewhere...I've always thought your Fantasy stuff was top of the line (we have much the same taste lol). Now the Japanese stuff to boot. Just gotta say wow =). For those of you who might be interested in some of John's other Japanese work...take a look here: www.karljunitz.com/Gallery.htmlThere used to be more...I'll have to bug Karl and find out where all the other links went lol. Cris
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Post by johnlundemo1 on Dec 21, 2008 2:05:45 GMT
There is also a Lundemo katana made from 700+ layer Jerry rados steel that Karl J. has finished polishing. The pictures are at SFI and Karls site. If anyone wants to bring the pics here they are welcome:) It is also water quenched, fun fun!!
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Marc Ridgeway
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"The best cost less when you buy it the first time." - Papabear
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Post by Marc Ridgeway on Dec 21, 2008 2:22:21 GMT
There is also a Lundemo katana made from 700+ layer Jerry rados steel that Karl J. has finished polishing. The pictures are at SFI and Karls site. If anyone wants to bring the pics here they are welcome:) It is also water quenched, fun fun!! Hell yeah, John...too nice not to put here...
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