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Post by darkhorse on Sept 2, 2024 22:39:30 GMT
I'm considering getting the LK Chan Gale Wind. As far as I understand, it has a nut at the end of the grip covered by the pommel and then one at the end of the tang, securing the pommel. I understand that the spot where the tang enters the pommel on a sword is a stress point, and for that reason, it's much better to have the tang keyed into the pommel than to have a thin, cylindrical portion of the tang entering it at that spot.
Would a double nut construction have durability akin to that of a keyed pommel, or one that is not keyed?
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Post by pellius on Sept 3, 2024 4:56:08 GMT
With the kind of construction you are describing, the nut on the grip does all the real work holding everything together. Keying the tang to the pommel wouldn’t really do much for the sword structurally.
Nut assembly can work fine if done right.
Though I don’t know, my guess is that the wood core of your grip is a hollow tube that isn’t fit to the tang at all. IMHO, such a setup is not good for a functional sword.
If you don’t mind having a grip that will never ever come off the tang, you can fill the void with epoxy. Your grip will be ultra solid and ultra permanent.
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Post by mrstabby on Sept 3, 2024 6:11:34 GMT
The nut does basically no work on the LK Jian. The whole grip is glued in with hot glue and the lanyard hole also goes through the tang. Unless you remove the lanyard rivet and heat the sword beyond 50°C tigthening or loosening the nut doesn't do much. The grip is keyed to the guard and pommel (both have oval recepticles). The inside has a bit of space, but is also ovoid and follows the size of the tang, but all void is filled with glue.
I have tried, there is no way to move the grip or take it off unless you bake the whole sword to at least 50°C-60°C.
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Post by pellius on Sept 3, 2024 12:57:55 GMT
I stand corrected.
Thank you for the information
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Post by crazyjons on Sept 3, 2024 13:57:02 GMT
As long as the Tang remains in tension, and the nut is tight it will be very strong.
Jon
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