|
|
Post by mfdrake on Jun 22, 2024 1:12:31 GMT
I have a question about Japanese sword maintenance, particularly in regards to oiling.
I am aware that the traditional Japanese steels and other similar types need to have oil applied frequently. Every time after it's used; occasionally while it's on display. I am less sure about everything in between.
Is it necessary to oil the blade every time after it is carried out somewhere, but not used? Any difference if is taken out of the sheath or not during that time?
Thanks. |
|
|
|
Post by treeslicer on Jun 22, 2024 4:03:03 GMT
I have a question about Japanese sword maintenance, particularly in regards to oiling.
I am aware that the traditional Japanese steels and other similar types need to have oil applied frequently. Every time after it's used; occasionally while it's on display. I am less sure about everything in between.
Is it necessary to oil the blade every time after it is carried out somewhere, but not used? Any difference if is taken out of the sheath or not during that time?
Thanks. My practice is to oil my swords with 3 in 1 oil, or a similar equivalent, at least monthly while stored, using a blue paper shop towel or a microfiber rag. Whenever I use one for practice, I oil it afterwards, and use some food-grade diatomaceous earth (of the fineness of flour) as uchiko sprinkled on the shop rag. Whenever I cut with one, I clean it thoroughly, oil it, and use uchiko BEFORE returning it to the saya that I store it in, to keep plant sap or other contaminants out of the saya, where contaminants will cause rust. I recommend having a separate carrying saya for cutting, and a lightly oiled rag for cleaning between series of cuts. Chiburi is just a symbolic motion, and won't really get gunk off a blade.
If you take a sword out to pass around for appreciation, etc., be sure and clean and oil it afterwards. No matter how careful they are, people will tend to breathe on, or put fingerprints on a blade somewhere. 
IMHO, there's nothing particularly superior about choji oil, mulberry paper, or fancy imported uchiko, compared to what I've described.
|
|
mrstabby
Member
Posts: 1,871
Member is Online
|
Post by mrstabby on Jun 22, 2024 6:42:23 GMT
I found Choi oil not to be much better than plain mineral oil, it sticks slightly better but I still have beading on some swords meaning it won't protect it. A mineral oil and petroleum jelly mix works best for me, for a long time too (I have a project-sword hanging around as a test, been a year without "jelly-ing" and still no rust). Wax is a bit more abrasion resistant and good wax will survive some handling - although wax is decisive, works extremely well for some, not at all for others, just a fair warning. All of these will wear down when handling though and some people are more caustic than others. So even if you can handle your sword without it rusting doesn't mean others also can. Also if you go somewhere with it and you are unlucky you could get acidic or salty dust on it which also can promote rust through the protectant, so I would reapply before you put it back into the scabbard (getting a rust poromoter inside a scabbard is very, very bad). Inside the scabbard it should be safer, but moving it still might rub off the oil some places.. Better safe than sorry. |
|
|
|
Post by mfdrake on Jun 22, 2024 13:21:29 GMT
Thank you for the information.
I just want to make sure I understand correctly - if I took a tanto to the dojo, but did not get around to using it for tameshigiri, I would still need to oil it at the end of the day?
|
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Jun 22, 2024 13:49:40 GMT
It really depends on your environment. Here the water's quite basic, so when I'm polishing a sword I don't oil it until the end. If the water was acidic, I'd oil it between polishing sessions. When polishing you quickly wash all the oil off your fingers, but I still wipe off with water before storing (but I wouldn't do this with acidic water or distilled water, etc.) It's not super humid here, and my traditional polishing doesn't invite rust, so I oil once, then check them every few months. Usually there's no rust, so I don't apply oil. If I show someone and they touch the blade, I always wipe the print off with fresh oil. I have choji oil, but I agree it's essentially identical to mineral oil. I only use it for nihonto.
So it really depends on your environment. The petroleum jelly oil mix sounds like a good idea if your environment is more rust prone.
As for the tanto, it depends. If you showed a lot of people, and and/or you're in a rust prone area, I'd still oil it.
|
|
mrstabby
Member
Posts: 1,871
Member is Online
|
Post by mrstabby on Jun 23, 2024 9:48:40 GMT
I mean this is highly unlikely normally, but if you go from a warm, humid environment to a cold one with hot, humid air trapped inside the scabbard it could get wet enough to form some spots. This would be from tropical to AC conditions though, but it is possible. If you want to be safe, wipe it any time you are finished with it and once you get home. Add to that not all swords are equal, some are rust magnets some less so.
|
|
|
|
Post by mfdrake on Jun 23, 2024 16:11:24 GMT
That clarifies it. Thank you all for the help.
|
|
