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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2008 22:14:33 GMT
I was just watching the first Conan movie. Is there any validity to the snow quenching used on his sword? I did do a search but came up empty.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Nov 22, 2008 23:11:28 GMT
No.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2008 1:43:48 GMT
NO.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2008 2:07:14 GMT
only if you're a cimerian.
jason
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Post by brotherbanzai on Nov 23, 2008 2:28:25 GMT
Snow isn't dense enough to cool a blade. You also wouldn't pour steel into a sword shaped mold, though you do something similar to that when making a bronze sword. Great movie though.
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Post by 293master293 on Nov 23, 2008 20:42:36 GMT
I have snow-quenched before, and it worked great. I do not suggest it because of the fact that it really is hit-and-miss, but when I did it the end result was revolutionary. That sword was tougher than crap.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2008 21:09:36 GMT
I have snow-quenched before, and it worked great. I do not suggest it because of the fact that it really is hit-and-miss, but when I did it the end result was revolutionary. That sword was tougher than crap. So is a bare bar of steel tougher than crap as well, you most likely did nothing to the sword, it was probably even more poorly treated in the first place or actually heat treated in the first place, and what you did to it was normalize it. This would make a sword pretty much unbreakable, but not very good at doing much else. What evidence do you base the idea "it worked great" on?
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Post by 293master293 on Nov 23, 2008 21:48:37 GMT
I have snow-quenched before, and it worked great. I do not suggest it because of the fact that it really is hit-and-miss, but when I did it the end result was revolutionary. That sword was tougher than crap. So is a bare bar of steel tougher than crap as well, you most likely did nothing to the sword, it was probably even more poorly treated in the first place or actually heat treated in the first place, and what you did to it was normalize it. This would make a sword pretty much unbreakable, but not very good at doing much else. What evidence do you base the idea "it worked great" on? Very scratch resistant. It went through destructive testing, and came out unscathed. An accusharp could not shave the steel. Brand new filed could barely put a mark on it, and yet it was very flexible.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2008 22:01:45 GMT
Very scratch resistant. It went through destructive testing, and came out unscathed. An accusharp could not shave the steel. Brand new filed could barely put a mark on it, and yet it was very flexible. Most likely just hardened the edge, maybe 1/8ths of it or less, at most then, and left the rest soft. Flex is not a product of heat treat, it is of geometry. As for scratch resistance, could have been most anything depending on the surface finish, who knows. Until concrete evidence or a sufficient argument to the contrary comes up, then the verdict will remain snow quenching is NOT a reliable nor effective technique.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Nov 23, 2008 23:45:06 GMT
huh, yeah, ;D
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2008 23:56:44 GMT
huh, yeah, ;D Ditto to that. it is IMHO the best most fun to watch of the false forging scenes ever made in movies though.
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Post by mythosequidae on Nov 24, 2008 1:41:06 GMT
This would appear to be a good time for some more of my foolish questions. Lots of snow around here. I've been thinking about reshaping some existing blades. Shortening and waisting. I love the shape of that Tinker LS. If I were to lay the blade in snow, and take gentle nips with a die grinder/cutoff wheel, would I risk annealing it? I do not wish to re-temper, since clues and large hot appliances are scarce. As for thinning the cross section, files seem like too much work. Would the snow bed allow any mechanical sanding? Sorry to deviate from the OP, but it seems to be settled anyway. Sam, you are a good educator. Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2008 1:45:45 GMT
Grinding while layed in the snow? That would be troublesome at best, just grind SLOW.
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Post by mythosequidae on Nov 24, 2008 2:12:24 GMT
Really. I thought NO machines. A welder at work told me about a wax paint stick that changes colour with temp. Maybe if I paint a line near the work area, it will keep me in check. Thank you, I'm happy to know this.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2008 2:22:51 GMT
They are called Tempil sticks, google em, they melt when you get to the temperature they are rated at.. If you go slowly and touch the steel constantly to feel if it is getting warm and let it cool if it does you can use power tools.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Nov 24, 2008 22:20:06 GMT
I have snow-quenched before, and it worked great. I do not suggest it because of the fact that it really is hit-and-miss, but when I did it the end result was revolutionary. That sword was tougher than crap. Oh come along now, Master. Behave. You didnt REALLY do that, did you? If you did, please show us pictures of this super-tough-super-clever-super-sword you HTd in a medium that everyone knows doesnt work. I'd love to see it. It would be fiction come to life! PLEASE don't be offended. As I have said before, your heart is in the right place, and you're a nice chap. But for gods sake take shop class!
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Post by 293master293 on Nov 25, 2008 1:35:49 GMT
I would, but since I started cutting with swords and after I snow quenched it I couldn't sharpen it, so I gave it away last Christmas. I might try it again though, and post the result if you want.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2008 1:39:33 GMT
I would, but since I started cutting with swords and after I snow quenched it I couldn't sharpen it, so I gave it away last Christmas. I might try it again though, and post the result if you want. Yeah let's not go ahead and suggest that, we don't condone stupid things on this section of the forum, nor coddle those who insist on doing them. Learning is one thing, being an ass is another.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2008 7:03:07 GMT
They are called Tempil sticks, google em, they melt when you get to the temperature they are rated at.. If you go slowly and touch the steel constantly to feel if it is getting warm and let it cool if it does you can use power tools. Definately. Also keep a bucket of water with you and every couple passes dip the blade. You can do basically anything you want to it as long as the blade never crests the last tempering temperature. Safest bet is nothing above a heat that's comfortable to touch. I've reshaped quite a few hardened tools in my time lol, and really, when you boil it down...that's all a sword is as well. Cris
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Post by Dan Davis on Nov 25, 2008 14:27:30 GMT
Also PLEASE remember: steel goes from cold to warm very sloooooowlyyyyyyyyy -
and from warm to "pass the burn cream" in a SPLIT SECOND.
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