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Post by formernuke on Apr 20, 2024 13:56:21 GMT
For those who are using frog lube for rust prevention a couple questions.
1. How are you pre cleaning the oils off prior to first treatment?
2. For display only swords how often are you retreating?
3. How many treatments are you doing prior to putting on the display racks?
Thanks for inputs
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Post by paulmuaddib on Apr 21, 2024 13:26:52 GMT
Don’t use frog lube but to answer your first question, you can use isopropyl alcohol to clean old oil off. Moist recommend 95%. I use Windex to clean the factory oil off and after cutting sessions. It works as good as alcohol.
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Post by mrstabby on Apr 21, 2024 13:47:02 GMT
I know, many use it, but the ingredients in windex aren't really neutral towards metal, not only are there perfumes, colourings and surfactants but also some sort of hydroxide (either ammonium or sodium depending on variant). I would not want to leave that on, and the manufacturer also does not recommend using it on steel. As long as you don't hit the wood and leather, you can use almost any solvent (that isn't acidic or basic), ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, all work. The lower the alcohol percantage, the higher chance it leaves moisture behind, which could be a problem, depending on how fast you put the sword in a scabbard/sheath. Also lower alcohol content has lower power against oil, anything above like 60% works, but the higher the better, Acetone dissolves oil and wax the most agressively. Also be aware denatured alcohol might leave the denaturing agent behind for a while and touching the blade might leave a bitter taste on your fingers. Sometimes, if alcohol or acetone doesn't work on residue, dish soap works well, as long as you rinse the blade with clean water after, then dry with towl or something and apply oil.
A combination of using acetone and soap removes everything from bare steel. On leather and wood there are special cleaners, soap and solvents ruin leather (no idea if you should use frog lube on leather, I'd always use special leather conditioners).
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Post by formernuke on Apr 21, 2024 16:34:20 GMT
Don’t use frog lube but to answer your first question, you can use isopropyl alcohol to clean old oil off. Moist recommend 95%. I use Windex to clean the factory oil off and after cutting sessions. It works as good as alcohol. Why not, it's a really good non toxic rust preventer.
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Post by formernuke on Apr 21, 2024 16:36:19 GMT
I have acetone and 91 percent alcohol and simple green on hand.
I wouldn't use windex at all unless I have a neutralizer as it's a base.
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Post by kloborgg on Apr 21, 2024 16:51:07 GMT
Don’t use frog lube but to answer your first question, you can use isopropyl alcohol to clean old oil off. Moist recommend 95%. I use Windex to clean the factory oil off and after cutting sessions. It works as good as alcohol. Why not, it's a really good non toxic rust preventer. I read that as him just saying he doesn't personally use it, not advising against it
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Post by formernuke on Apr 21, 2024 18:56:00 GMT
Why not, it's a really good non toxic rust preventer. I read that as him just saying he doesn't personally use it, not advising against it That could be the case. Hard to tell with text.
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Post by mrstabby on Apr 21, 2024 19:11:45 GMT
I read that as him just saying he doesn't personally use it, not advising against it That could be the case. Hard to tell with text. I remember a thread, could be wrong though, I think he uses mineral oil or Birchwood Casey Barricade (which is an insanely good rust preventer, but I can't get it anymore), so I am pretty sure he meant he does not use it minself.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Apr 21, 2024 23:34:37 GMT
To everyone defending me, thank you. That is exactly what I meant. Frog lube is, from what I’ve read, is one of the best products out there for rust prevention. The only negative thing I’ve read about it is it’s scent. Some people don’t like it, others do. Archery hunters don’t like it because of that.
Mr stabby your memory is correct. I used Birchwood Casey Sheath for maybe 30 years on my guns. I have a friend from high school that is a gunsmith. He’s also married to a cousin of mine. He recommended it and I’ve used it since. Then BC changed Sheath to a commercial only product. Replaced it with Barricade. From what I’ve read they are almost identical. I flunked chemistry in college, twice (yeah not my areas of expertise), so I don’t understand all that. When I ran out of Sheath I of course bought Barricade. Will use it for the duration. I do recommend it highly. I don’t reoil my guns or swords often and don’t have a problem with rust. Ymmv.
Thanks again sword friends.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Apr 21, 2024 23:43:13 GMT
I know, many use it, but the ingredients in windex aren't really neutral towards metal, not only are there perfumes, colourings and surfactants but also some sort of hydroxide (either ammonium or sodium depending on variant). I would not want to leave that on, and the manufacturer also does not recommend using it on steel. As long as you don't hit the wood and leather, you can use almost any solvent (that isn't acidic or basic), ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, all work. The lower the alcohol percantage, the higher chance it leaves moisture behind, which could be a problem, depending on how fast you put the sword in a scabbard/sheath. Also lower alcohol content has lower power against oil, anything above like 60% works, but the higher the better, Acetone dissolves oil and wax the most agressively. Also be aware denatured alcohol might leave the denaturing agent behind for a while and touching the blade might leave a bitter taste on your fingers. Sometimes, if alcohol or acetone doesn't work on residue, dish soap works well, as long as you rinse the blade with clean water after, then dry with towl or something and apply oil. A combination of using acetone and soap removes everything from bare steel. On leather and wood there are special cleaners, soap and solvents ruin leather (no idea if you should use frog lube on leather, I'd always use special leather conditioners). Thank you for this information mrstabby. So far iI haven’t had a problem with Windex but probably should change over to alcohol only. And yeah acetone is pretty aggressive. Used for so many things and stuff is clean when it’s done.
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Post by Lord Newport on Apr 21, 2024 23:47:44 GMT
FrogLube was a huge fad in the firearms community until enough people had experience with it...and then it wasn't. Just saying. Id research the Frog Lube a bit more. I have always just used Remington gun oil on my Euro blades and choji oil (scented mineral oil) on my Japanese/ Japanese style blades.
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Post by formernuke on Apr 22, 2024 1:54:56 GMT
Frog lube in the fire arms community lost it because of over applying and once over applied it would gum up. I personally don't like it for this reason, it's really easy for it to gum up.
For rust prevention though it is great.
Smell wise it smells like mint, I like mint.
The real issue is that for it to work all oils need to be removed, hence I'm wondering the best way to remove the oils from the blade.
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