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Post by metinemre on Mar 24, 2024 22:38:12 GMT
Finally I had some time today.
It took roughly 4 hours including an hour break to go to home depot.
With the experience gained next time I would make it in two hours. Couldn`t fit the spearhead super flush as I wanted but I think it looks better than most mass production versions. Didn`t weigh it yet, not sure how I can but I believe it is less than 5lbs Edit: I was able to check the weight today and it is 3lbs 12oz
Materials used Ash 1-1/4" Dowel Rod 7 feet
Euro Spear Head Hand Forged High Carbon Steel
Round Ended Butt Cap
4.3A Belt Sander, 4 x 36 in. Belt & 6 in. Disc Sander, Double Dust Exhaust Port
Gorilla 2 Part Epoxy, 5 Minute Set, .85 Ounce Syringe, Clear
A nail to peen, round and flat head hammer, rectangle wood file, painter`s blue tape towel, 600 grit sandpaper to buff the dovel, wood stain red mahogany, satin wood sealant in a spray can.
If I had this tool it would help a lot, so definitely will buy one.
18V ONE+ 1/2" x 18" Belt Sander
This video is a perfect guide how to do everything.
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Post by shinycanoe on Mar 25, 2024 3:31:01 GMT
Looks great! How does it feel when you move it around? I bought a belt sander specifically for projects like this and now I end up using it for so many things. Definitely recommend. I am happy with the Wen brand one I bought, but it looks like they have gone up significantly in price recently.
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Post by metinemre on Mar 25, 2024 4:45:55 GMT
Looks great! How does it feel when you move it around? I bought a belt sander specifically for projects like this and now I end up using it for so many things. Definitely recommend. I am happy with the Wen brand one I bought, but it looks like they have gone up significantly in price recently. Thank you. I had a chance to weigh it. Edited: It is 3lbs 12 oz Feels very solid in hand. Definitely a war spear for two hand use. I can't say agile but also not feeling heavy or sluggish. I can easily move it and change directions. I will make another one when I have time. A shorter and lighter spear that can be used with a shield. At first I thought about the A&A norseman and celtic spears but wanted something longer. I may still buy the celtic spear. Spare time is very little for me and usually end up resting on Sunday's and getting ready for 60hrs work week again. I highly recommend anyone thinking about making one. It was a lot of fun and wasn't hard at all. I moved my work bench in front of the garage. So all the dust etc didn't mess up the garage either
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Post by izzy on Mar 25, 2024 16:10:38 GMT
Very nice spear...looking at the windlass lugged "viking" spear...need more spears. :^)
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Mar 26, 2024 15:00:22 GMT
It took me a bit to watch the video. Here's my .02 I've hafted about 20 spears, and thought I had figured out a whole new level of over thinking it. This is a new level. I love it. I hold mine on with low gauge copper wire. I peen one side, to make it a rivet head, push it thru, and peen it. Makes a nice but of pop.
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Post by mrstabby on Mar 27, 2024 10:18:24 GMT
I have (maybe)something to add. I have a graphite lubricant spray, never used it for its intended purpose, but if you spray that inside the socket, you can see where it rubs, where you need to take off more material off the shaft. I am still waiting for my hewing spear head but I found a very straight shaft for it, now only need the head.
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LeMal
Member
Posts: 1,091
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Post by LeMal on Mar 27, 2024 15:40:23 GMT
Don't know how historical it is, but two words: cutler's resin. Don't have to be perfect grinding down the shaft to fit; if you overdo it, but are sure it's fitting straight, you always can use a strong space-filling adhesive.
(Third word, though only historical AFAIK in New World indigenous work on tanged heads, but still works great on socketed heads: rawhide. Put a rawhide sleeve that covers the join of the bottom of the socket and top of the shaft and once it shrinks down on them you have not only internal friction holding the head on but external as well.)
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Post by demonskull on Mar 28, 2024 21:02:44 GMT
I've done several by first keeping the taper slightly larger than it needs. Heat up the socket with a torch and tap it in place, as it cools the socket will contract, tightening around the taper. For the nail/pins, I generally use a nail with a flat head. I take two per haft, diagonally cut them so they'll penetrate the haft about 2/3s of the way. I line them up and tap them in from either side, so the pins meet and cross over each other. You can also make designs on the flat heads of the nails.
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Post by wildv on Mar 29, 2024 12:16:31 GMT
I've done several by first keeping the taper slightly larger than it needs. Heat up the socket with a torch and tap it in place, as it cools the socket will contract, tightening around the taper. For the nail/pins, I generally use a nail with a flat head. I take two per haft, diagonally cut them so they'll penetrate the haft about 2/3s of the way. I line them up and tap them in from either side, so the pins meet and cross over each other. You can also make designs on the flat heads of the nails. This is a brilliant idea! Thank you!
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Post by mrstabby on Mar 29, 2024 12:47:22 GMT
I've done several by first keeping the taper slightly larger than it needs. Heat up the socket with a torch and tap it in place, as it cools the socket will contract, tightening around the taper. For the nail/pins, I generally use a nail with a flat head. I take two per haft, diagonally cut them so they'll penetrate the haft about 2/3s of the way. I line them up and tap them in from either side, so the pins meet and cross over each other. You can also make designs on the flat heads of the nails. This is a brilliant idea! Thank you! I would not do that with the one you got from UC, it has no full socket like the one demoskull used. Also might burn off the finish. Mounting for the full socket is a bit more shaping work than the style of the UC or CS boar spears with only "bands". Just shove it in until it fits and put in some screws/pins in the holes of the head. My reasoning is that the band might get too snug and cut into the shaft whan it tightens while the full socket puts pressure equally on the whole area. I might be wrong, I just prefer full sockets.
Also look out for sharp edges on the area contacting the shaft and file it round, less likely to break over time.
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Post by wildv on Mar 29, 2024 13:40:07 GMT
This is a brilliant idea! Thank you! I would not do that with the one you got from UC, it has no full socket like the one demoskull used. Also might burn off the finish. Mounting for the full socket is a bit more shaping work than the style of the UC or CS boar spears with only "bands". Just shove it in until it fits and put in some screws/pins in the holes of the head. My reasoning is that the band might get too snug and cut into the shaft whan it tightens while the full socket puts pressure equally on the whole area. I might be wrong, I just prefer full sockets.
Also look out for sharp edges on the area contacting the shaft and file it round, less likely to break over time.
I don't want to burn the black paint. I thought this might be a bad idea after second consideration, thank you I will clean things up when it arrives. I own a little belt sanding machine, was the best tool thing I've ever purchased. Only cost $100 and for sword fan's it's a must.
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