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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 2:49:42 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 2:58:58 GMT
i was starting to think u polish before and after the heat treat looks great though cant wait to see it finished. going do a hamon?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 3:09:37 GMT
Stats so far: overall length: 34" blade length: 27 3/4" width at ha-machi (shoulder): 1 1/2" width at yokote (tip): 3/4" thickness at base of blade: a hair over 3/16" thickness at yokote (tip): 1/8"
Straight now, gonna let it get all it's curve from the quench. Yes it will have a hamon.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 4:17:14 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 4:58:33 GMT
Good stuff Sam! That last picture really shows the work you put into it =).
Hopefully my short one turns out as nice lol. That 1095 is going to rock for a katana!
Cris
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 15:10:29 GMT
This s not going to be one of the katana that will be filmed in the quench, I said I will be using water for that experiment and 1095 will crack in water.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 18:34:28 GMT
hey when you apply the clay can u take a few pics on the process?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 19:07:54 GMT
hey when you apply the clay can u take a few pics on the process? Yes absolutely.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 20:15:19 GMT
hey when you apply the clay can u take a few pics on the process? I'll be taking pictures of mine too DS, not that that's a big help lol. Hopefully Sam does his soon so we can both learn a bit! I may be heat treating mine early this week if all goes well....HURRY up Sam!! =D Cris
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 20:34:24 GMT
It will help very much so Cris, it is always nice to have different inputs. I won;t be doing mine for awhile, I need to get the refractory for the heat treating furnace then build it before I can HT anything. Basically follow everything in the craft of the japanese sword. I have to apply the clay a bit thicker for alot of reasons, alloying elements in factory steels as opposed to tamahagane, different quenchant, carbon content and a bunch of other stuff.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Nov 16, 2008 22:41:21 GMT
So we can expect a juicy long wait till we actually see it FINISHED, eh Sam?
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Post by brotherbanzai on Nov 16, 2008 23:27:30 GMT
Hey Sam, how are you planning on quenching? I mean into what and interrupted or not, that sort of thing.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2008 23:56:18 GMT
Planning on quenching into Park's #50, non interrupted(no need) and agitated edge to spine.
And Matt, yes.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Nov 17, 2008 22:01:26 GMT
Where did this whole interrupted quench hocum come from? Not that the technique itself is silly, just that EVERYONE seems to always ask if you need an interrupted quench whenever HTing comes up in conversation.
Very much looking forward to the next installment, Sam. That is some envy inspiring belt grinder work, by the way.
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Post by brotherbanzai on Nov 17, 2008 23:42:16 GMT
Hey Matt, I think the first time I read about an interrupted quench it might have been a post by Slavia describing how to get a good hamon on steel that is meant to be oil quenched. I think?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2008 1:20:16 GMT
Hey Matt, I think the first time I read about an interrupted quench it might have been a post by Slavia describing how to get a good hamon on steel that is meant to be oil quenched. I think? Actually, it's a good bit older a process than that I think. It's probably just the expansion of knowledge via the internet that makes us think it's something new. The basis of it is that once you're past the nose of the transformation curve, which is within 1-3 seconds on most all steels from what I gather...pulling the blade out allows the temperatures to equalize from the edge to the spine (thicker to thinner does cool differently even when through hardening). The parts of the blade (if you're clay quenching) that cooled quickly and missed the nose of the transformation curve will form martensite no matter how quickly or slowly the blade cools, once it's below that nose. Equalizing those temperatures once past the nose reduces the stress levels in the steel by quite a large amount. Another cool thing is, once you have interrupted the quench, you can return the blade to the quench medium (or a different, slower medium for that matter...to reduce stress even more), then remove the blade at around 350*-450* F, and straighten it by hand, or via easy manipulation with tools if it warped...because the martensite transformation has barely started. You can then lay it on a bench, or quench it in water from that point, and it will harden normally with almost no stresses induced. Test it, put it in your tempering medium (or oven) for your tempering cycles, and you've got a good, sturdy blade with very little in the way of internal stresses, almost no retained austenite, martensite where you want it, and great overall performance =). Quenching in a purpose made oil like Parks 50 or the like is different, but equally cool. Fast quenching mediums like that are chemically designed to cool VERY quickly at the start (the first 3 seconds), making for a very aggressive quench...but as they heat up around the blade they actually insulate the steel, cooling slower, and easing stress that way. Sort of an interrupted quench, without having to interrupt! Hope that helps some! Cris
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Nov 18, 2008 19:26:40 GMT
Interesting prospect.
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Post by Matthew Stagmer on Nov 18, 2008 21:55:52 GMT
Don Fogg does alot of interrupted quenching. Tons of material to read up on about it. Looks great so far Sam. Why dont you make it to our hammer in this year and quench it here.
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Post by brotherbanzai on Nov 18, 2008 23:11:56 GMT
Hey Cris, I didn't mean that I thought that was the first occurrence of an interrupted quench, just that it was the first time I had heard of it. Sheesh . Cool info, I've never tried it or looked it up to find out why it was supposed to work, only knew that it was supposed to help you get a hamon. Thanks for the little lesson.
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