Post by dm7597 on Feb 8, 2024 6:54:17 GMT
Introduction
This is my first "real sword." Growing up, I had a wide variety of cheap gladius, katana, and Master Sword sword-like objects. After watching Skall, Shad, and Matt during college, I learned what I was missing out on! However, only recently have I had the chance to start a collection. I wanted something big so I could display it, but most things like an Albion Maximilian were out of my price range. I really liked the idea of a Claymore since it's in a nice "War Sword" size. I was caught between a Hanwei and the Kingston Arms claymores. I had seen some reviews about Hanwei's having hollow pommels and snapped tangs... so I went with the Kingston Arms!
Historical Overview
These style of swords are Scottish highland 16th century two handers. Kingston Arms decided to go with a wheel pommel, which is historical (see scottish claymore in the Canadian War Museum), but from what I can tell is the less popular type found. Most are more similar to the Hanwei pommel. I really like Kingstons Arms design even if the fuller is longer and thinner than the historicals and the hilt is made of stainless steel.
Full Disclosure
This is my first real sword. I am new to this community and may not have the same keen eye when it comes to certain things. I just enjoy cutting water bottles in my back yard.
Initial Impressions
I ordered the sword from Medieval Collectibles and they did not have much protective packing. When the box was on my porch, one of the sword's quillons was sticking out the side of the box. That being said, no damage! Finish was nice, everything felt solidly together, and there weren't any scuffs from the breach.
Statistics
Blade length
41 inches
Handle length
14.5 inches
Overall length
55.5 inches
Cross guard width
12.5 inches
Point of Balance
5.25 inches from hilt
(Left end of the red rope)
Center of Percussion
About 11 inches from tip
(Area between two knots in red rope)
Weight
I don't have a scale but KOA has it listed at 4lbs 2ozs, which feels right. It's more taxing to swing around a 5lb work out weight.
Components
Blade
I like the blade but there are some interesting notes about it.
1) The first 12-13 inches of the blade from the hilt are completely unsharpened. Totally fine for me since I don't plan on cutting things that close but I thought it was interesting when I noticed it.
2) The center point of the hilt that extends over the middle of the blade is riveted in place. I hadn't seen any other manufacturer do that but I figured it would add security.
3) And this may be where I lose you... looking into the gap between the base of the blade and the hilt, it appears the shoulders of the blade are not touching the cross guard at all. I've seen online that this is normally a huge red flag because the cross guard will easily come loose. However, I haven't felt any looseness... likely because the cross guard extends down to the grip and is riveted to the blade.
Guard
Flowing from point 3 discussing the blade, I have cut with this on 3 occasions (water bottles) and have picked it up by the crossguard many times. I have done form and maneuver practice weekly in the yard, swinging back and forth abruptly and in large momentum based patterns as well. I don't cut anything like tatami, but I figure if the guard was going to come loose, it would have by now. The crossguard broke through the side of the box during shipping and didn't come loose.
I will say the gap itself between the guard and blade does slightly concern me. I live in a dry environment thankfully so I'm not too worried about rust but the center extension of the guard onto the blade does have a slight opening where water has gotten in. I just try to keep it as oiled as possible. I've tried cleaning under it with a piece of paper and it ended up just trapping a small piece of wet paper. Hopefully it won't rust but nothing I can do about it now. I'm mainly concerned about dirt and debris getting in where I can't reach.
Handle
Thin black leather seems to be glued around it since I see no stitching. The top and bottom portions are very round. But the center mass is a nice oval shape. Since I normally have my lead hand just under the guard and my support hand on the wheel pommel, the round portions of the grip don't effect me too much.
Pommel
The wheel pommel is nice. The tang construction is listed as a nut bit I don't see any place for a wrench or allen key. The pommel is very soft in design with no harsh corners so it's really comfortable to hold.
Scabbard
Did not come with a sheath or scabbard.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Y83EUlEjInceUyRWq4pFVqt27GippVjw
Handling Characteristics
This sword feels incredibly light for its size. I don't have much to compare it to other than wall hangers and katanas, but this blade is lively! The V shape of the crossguard is very forgiving of my novice form, not knocking against my wrists. And the pommel makes an excellent spot for your support hand. I'm untrained and still fast enough with it to throw bottles in the air and slice them on their way down.
Test Cutting
The sword cuts well but is very picky about landing on the center of percussion. I think that's because the blade is fairly flexible so any deviation too far from the sweetspot tends to result in bottle explosions instead of cuts. However landing on the COP feels incredible.
Conclusion
I know, the blade to hilt attachment seems sketchy. If I knew that beforehand, I may have gone with a kriegsmesser or something instead. However! I personally love this blade and it took me weeks to even realize that was how it was constructed since it felt so solid. It survived poor shipping conditions, so I don't think my water bottle warfare will be too strenuous for it.
Guard aside, I absolutely love this sword. I think the weight is perfect, it feels solid, the crossguard is iconic, the pommel is comfortable without gloves, and I have a ton of fun with it.
Pros
Decent price
Solid feel
Light weight
Rust resistant fittings
Cons
Guard to blade fit
Round grip
This is my first "real sword." Growing up, I had a wide variety of cheap gladius, katana, and Master Sword sword-like objects. After watching Skall, Shad, and Matt during college, I learned what I was missing out on! However, only recently have I had the chance to start a collection. I wanted something big so I could display it, but most things like an Albion Maximilian were out of my price range. I really liked the idea of a Claymore since it's in a nice "War Sword" size. I was caught between a Hanwei and the Kingston Arms claymores. I had seen some reviews about Hanwei's having hollow pommels and snapped tangs... so I went with the Kingston Arms!
Historical Overview
These style of swords are Scottish highland 16th century two handers. Kingston Arms decided to go with a wheel pommel, which is historical (see scottish claymore in the Canadian War Museum), but from what I can tell is the less popular type found. Most are more similar to the Hanwei pommel. I really like Kingstons Arms design even if the fuller is longer and thinner than the historicals and the hilt is made of stainless steel.
Full Disclosure
This is my first real sword. I am new to this community and may not have the same keen eye when it comes to certain things. I just enjoy cutting water bottles in my back yard.
Initial Impressions
I ordered the sword from Medieval Collectibles and they did not have much protective packing. When the box was on my porch, one of the sword's quillons was sticking out the side of the box. That being said, no damage! Finish was nice, everything felt solidly together, and there weren't any scuffs from the breach.
Statistics
Blade length
41 inches
Handle length
14.5 inches
Overall length
55.5 inches
Cross guard width
12.5 inches
Point of Balance
5.25 inches from hilt
(Left end of the red rope)
Center of Percussion
About 11 inches from tip
(Area between two knots in red rope)
Weight
I don't have a scale but KOA has it listed at 4lbs 2ozs, which feels right. It's more taxing to swing around a 5lb work out weight.
Components
Blade
I like the blade but there are some interesting notes about it.
1) The first 12-13 inches of the blade from the hilt are completely unsharpened. Totally fine for me since I don't plan on cutting things that close but I thought it was interesting when I noticed it.
2) The center point of the hilt that extends over the middle of the blade is riveted in place. I hadn't seen any other manufacturer do that but I figured it would add security.
3) And this may be where I lose you... looking into the gap between the base of the blade and the hilt, it appears the shoulders of the blade are not touching the cross guard at all. I've seen online that this is normally a huge red flag because the cross guard will easily come loose. However, I haven't felt any looseness... likely because the cross guard extends down to the grip and is riveted to the blade.
Guard
Flowing from point 3 discussing the blade, I have cut with this on 3 occasions (water bottles) and have picked it up by the crossguard many times. I have done form and maneuver practice weekly in the yard, swinging back and forth abruptly and in large momentum based patterns as well. I don't cut anything like tatami, but I figure if the guard was going to come loose, it would have by now. The crossguard broke through the side of the box during shipping and didn't come loose.
I will say the gap itself between the guard and blade does slightly concern me. I live in a dry environment thankfully so I'm not too worried about rust but the center extension of the guard onto the blade does have a slight opening where water has gotten in. I just try to keep it as oiled as possible. I've tried cleaning under it with a piece of paper and it ended up just trapping a small piece of wet paper. Hopefully it won't rust but nothing I can do about it now. I'm mainly concerned about dirt and debris getting in where I can't reach.
Handle
Thin black leather seems to be glued around it since I see no stitching. The top and bottom portions are very round. But the center mass is a nice oval shape. Since I normally have my lead hand just under the guard and my support hand on the wheel pommel, the round portions of the grip don't effect me too much.
Pommel
The wheel pommel is nice. The tang construction is listed as a nut bit I don't see any place for a wrench or allen key. The pommel is very soft in design with no harsh corners so it's really comfortable to hold.
Scabbard
Did not come with a sheath or scabbard.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Y83EUlEjInceUyRWq4pFVqt27GippVjw
Handling Characteristics
This sword feels incredibly light for its size. I don't have much to compare it to other than wall hangers and katanas, but this blade is lively! The V shape of the crossguard is very forgiving of my novice form, not knocking against my wrists. And the pommel makes an excellent spot for your support hand. I'm untrained and still fast enough with it to throw bottles in the air and slice them on their way down.
Test Cutting
The sword cuts well but is very picky about landing on the center of percussion. I think that's because the blade is fairly flexible so any deviation too far from the sweetspot tends to result in bottle explosions instead of cuts. However landing on the COP feels incredible.
Conclusion
I know, the blade to hilt attachment seems sketchy. If I knew that beforehand, I may have gone with a kriegsmesser or something instead. However! I personally love this blade and it took me weeks to even realize that was how it was constructed since it felt so solid. It survived poor shipping conditions, so I don't think my water bottle warfare will be too strenuous for it.
Guard aside, I absolutely love this sword. I think the weight is perfect, it feels solid, the crossguard is iconic, the pommel is comfortable without gloves, and I have a ton of fun with it.
Pros
Decent price
Solid feel
Light weight
Rust resistant fittings
Cons
Guard to blade fit
Round grip