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Post by larason2 on Jan 16, 2024 22:38:05 GMT
That's too bad that happened. I would carve a wooden handle, and put a cord and leather wrap on it with some hide glue! It's not too hard to do, the hardest part will be the carving. Then you won't even have to dissassemble it.
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Post by oblivion25 on Jan 17, 2024 5:12:24 GMT
Honestly making a wood grip replacement isn't hard, you need the tools to do it though. It's not a very hard job (especially if the endcap can be screwed off and is not peened), so I don't think you need to bother someone who is super elite. You could just look around your area if there are any blacksmiths around. Else you could create a thread in the general discussion or sword repair subforums.
Good luck!
BTW I hate leather disk grips exactly because of this and I hate the texture, just saying  Yup I hate leather stack disk grips too I don’t know why I didn’t go with my gutt and tried something I know I don’t like 🤦🏾♂️ and yeah honestly I’m probably gunna go with the ladder and create a thread in the general discussion or sword repair subforum. Also, unfortunately the end cap is unfortunately peened… |
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 25, 2024 23:58:26 GMT
To anneal, you can just bring it up to orange heat with a blowtorch, then let it cool to room temperature slowly. Yeah if you want a piece of high carbon steel that's still unreasonably hard to work with. I would never call air cooling annealing.
Bring it to a red heat, watch it in low light/darkness for when the color of the steel fades to black, promptly dunk it into freezing cold water. Enjoy your blade that's so annealed you can do stock removal on it with sandpaper.
I'd just rig a garden hose to continuously water cool the steel while I'm grinding and not need to worry about killing the temper. |
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Post by larason2 on Jan 26, 2024 0:01:21 GMT
Hmmm. Air cooling still softens a carbon steel blade enough to work on it. Maybe it's not enough for you, but it's reasonable advice for a novice.
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 26, 2024 0:24:40 GMT
Wouldn't a softer, easier to work blade be better for a novice.
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Post by larason2 on Jan 26, 2024 1:12:18 GMT
I don't think the difference between your technique and mine really makes that much of a difference.
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 26, 2024 1:46:35 GMT
I'm not talking about technique. Regarding lowering the hardness of a blade there's a great difference between giving it a sub-critical quench annealing and just killing its temper, and that makes the difference between flying through the work of shaping the steel versus taking something like 4 times as long to do it. Time is money. I think anyone can appreciate that.
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Post by larason2 on Jan 26, 2024 2:35:18 GMT
I don't think it is that long. I've done air cool annealing before, and I didn't find it that hard to work at all (on 1075). Maybe it depends on the steel, but for plain carbon steel on small parts or thin blades, it doesn't make a difference.
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 26, 2024 2:54:59 GMT
but for plain carbon steel on small parts or thin blades, it doesn't make a difference. I've been in fact only referring to carbon steel and small parts/thin blades this whole time. Apparently you've never done a sub-critical anneal to a blade to claim it makes no difference. I recommend you try it. Considering it only involves a tub of cold water there's no reason why anyone should not do it. |
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Post by larason2 on Jan 26, 2024 4:26:31 GMT
I'm not saying it makes no difference, only that the difference for me isn't significant. It's true I've never annealed the way you suggest, but honestly, there doesn't seem to me to be a point. The method I used seemed to work, and the metal wasn't that hard to work. Why bother getting ice, etc.? I've polished and ground both hardened and annealed carbon steels with stones and sandpaper, and I've cut both hardened and annealed steels. If an annealing process makes it soft enough to cut with a hack saw, then it's soft. Honestly, I don't need it any softer. No online guide to annealing suggests ice water. So I don't see the point.
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 26, 2024 4:34:30 GMT
I'm not saying it makes no difference, only that the difference for me isn't significant. Oh. My original post was for OP's benefit, not yours. You mentioned annealing back there and I had an alternative method for OP's attention, but I thought I could bring it out better by replying to your post instead of directly talking to OP. Does that make sense? If you don't need a better annealing method that's fine. I never mentioned ice. |
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Post by larason2 on Jan 26, 2024 14:12:28 GMT
"freezing cold water."
I don't know how you're doing this without ice...
I think I've said my piece, don't have much more to say regarding this.
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AndiTheBarvarian
Member
"Lord of the Memes"
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 10,346
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 26, 2024 15:29:44 GMT
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 26, 2024 16:25:07 GMT
"freezing cold water." I don't know how you're doing this without ice... That was inaccurate of me. I don't know where you are but in america to speak of just really cold water as "freezing cold" is something like an idiom and a habit, and not to be taken literally. But now that you mention it, maybe adding ice cubes would increase the efficacy, lol. I wonder how a sub-critical anneal would result if I use superquench. Hmm... |
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Post by larason2 on Jan 27, 2024 0:00:23 GMT
Well, I asked the experts at the Bladesmith Forum, and they said that my advice was perfectly reasonable, depending on the steel. It turns out it's not actually an anneal, but normalization to heat it up and let it air cool. Annealing without a special oven is actually pretty difficult. Under 900 degrees, it doesn't matter if you use cold water (ice water!) or just let it cool in air. There's better ways to normalize, but I'll let you hear it from the pros: www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/43513-annealing-advice/"Zat man! He never gives up!"... (Edit: Here in Canada, if you say "freezing cold water" it's literally 0 degrees celsius (32F), and there's ice in it. Water at 5 degrees (41F) is considered cold water. Anything above this is reasonable for swimming. So there may be a bit of a difference compared to the US!) |
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 27, 2024 2:27:03 GMT
Well, I asked the experts at the Bladesmith Forum, and they said that my advice was perfectly reasonable, depending on the steel. It turns out it's not actually an anneal, but normalization to heat it up and let it air cool. Annealing without a special oven is actually pretty difficult. Under 900 degrees, it doesn't matter if you use cold water (ice water!) or just let it cool in air. There's better ways to normalize, but I'll let you hear it from the pros: Well, you'll notice the "pros" did not say you're right and he's wrong if that was the point of this, lol. If you want an argumentum ad verecundiam then I can show you other professionals talking about their use of sub-critical annealing and their reasons why. Sub-critical annealing isn't something I made up if that's what you think. yeah, if you're going for a full anneal
please do your research
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Post by larason2 on Jan 27, 2024 3:26:30 GMT
"Zat man, he never gives up!"...
That's nice, but what you're doing isn't sub critical annealing. Maybe you should research what sub critical annealing is.
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 27, 2024 4:02:39 GMT
"Zat man, he never gives up!"... Uh huh. I have no idea what you keep quoting, but if it's supposed to mean I'm trying to get "the last word" then I ask you not drag our discussion down to immature insinuations. We had a failure of communication which I felt needed to be clarified. Maybe it took more follow-up posts than you like but this is how an adult converses, not getting rustled jimmies and assuming the other person is trying to dominate him with "the last word." |
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Post by larason2 on Jan 27, 2024 4:19:02 GMT
I never meant to insinuate anything, my apologies, just trying to find some humour in it. Anyway, I don't think what you're doing is sub critical annealing. To do that, you need to hold the metal in an expensive oven at subcritical temp for several hours. If you don't do that, you don't get the conversion of the pearlite, therefore, no annealing. What you do with your cold water is normalizing, just like I do. No problem there, I learned some, you learned some. Now we both understand better how to soften sword metal to make it easier to work.
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 28, 2024 3:23:36 GMT
>you need to hold the metal in an expensive oven at subcritical temp for several hours.Again, that's only for a full anneal. >What you do with your cold water is normalizing, just like I doI've heated countless pieces of steel and let them air cool, too. Who hasn't? My point is the resulting hardness from that and from a sub-critical quench anneal is like night and day. I think all there's left to say here is that you should observe it for yourself rather than, with all due respect, thinking you know everything and dismissing an alternative heat treatment method out of hand because you've never heard of it. You didn't even know what normalizing is until yesterday. Anyway, the OP has an option for helping to do a distal taper, if he doesn't mind totally re-heat treating his blade afterward 
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