mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Nov 9, 2023 19:01:32 GMT
Well, I didn't expect this thread to connect some dots that have been bugging me for years.  and here I was merely full of wishful thinking about sword prices lmao. Smaller swords you can get some relatively nice ones for 250$ (sabers, arming swords, hand-an-a-half and even some long swords), but greatsword sized examples are more pricey.
Maybe also take a look at Windlass Sword of Roven, not 100% what you wanted because it's light, but cheap.
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Post by cheb on Nov 9, 2023 19:05:38 GMT
Well, I didn't expect this thread to connect some dots that have been bugging me for years. Yeah, it seems like the same sword everyone gets. Just have to read the reviews. Looking at the test cutting and what people have said, it seems like it's got a soft temper if it's tempered at all. If something this large failed it'd be very dangerous, but I think as long as you stick with soft targets (if you use it at all) you should be fine. That said, I've seen other more reputable brands fail, so caution is definitely advised. Yeah makes sense, although I’d rather have soft over brittle. Maybe once I get my hands on it I can put it through a little bit a of a gauntlet and share my opinions. I’m definitely no expert on swords specifically but I am a little bit of a blacksmith and I’m literally in class as we speak studying “metallic structure inspection” so I might be able to give a little more input. |
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Post by cheb on Nov 9, 2023 19:07:40 GMT
and here I was merely full of wishful thinking about sword prices lmao. Smaller swords you can get some relatively nice ones for 250$ (sabers, arming swords, hand-an-a-half and even some long swords), but greatsword sized examples are more pricey.
Maybe also take a look at Windlass Sword of Roven, not 100% what you wanted because it's light, but cheap.
definitely a touch lighter than I’m after right now but I REALLY like the design. I think I’ll make that my next sword lol. |
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rschuch
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Post by rschuch on Nov 9, 2023 19:16:05 GMT
Yeah, it seems like the same sword everyone gets. Just have to read the reviews. Looking at the test cutting and what people have said, it seems like it's got a soft temper if it's tempered at all. If something this large failed it'd be very dangerous, but I think as long as you stick with soft targets (if you use it at all) you should be fine. That said, I've seen other more reputable brands fail, so caution is definitely advised. Yeah makes sense, although I’d rather have soft over brittle. Maybe once I get my hands on it I can put it through a little bit a of a gauntlet and share my opinions. I’m definitely no expert on swords specifically but I am a little bit of a blacksmith and I’m literally in class as we speak studying “metallic structure inspection” so I might be able to give a little more input. Definitely let us what you discover! It's peened, but I have no idea what the tang looks like and I'm curious as to the RC rating and metal structure. And I agree, better a bit soft than too brittle, which is where most blades fail snapping at the tang. If you don't try to chop down any trees I think it shouldn't bend just because the steel is so thick. |
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Post by cheb on Nov 9, 2023 19:42:28 GMT
Yeah makes sense, although I’d rather have soft over brittle. Maybe once I get my hands on it I can put it through a little bit a of a gauntlet and share my opinions. I’m definitely no expert on swords specifically but I am a little bit of a blacksmith and I’m literally in class as we speak studying “metallic structure inspection” so I might be able to give a little more input. Definitely let us what you discover! It's peened, but I have no idea what the tang looks like and I'm curious as to the RC rating and metal structure. And I agree, better a bit soft than too brittle, which is where most blades fail snapping at the tang. If you don't try to chop down any trees I think it shouldn't bend just because the steel is so thick. yeah I almost want to snap it to see the grain lol. With how thick it is I’ll probably end up with a metal walking stick if I decide to go after the trees. Unfortunately I don’t have anyway to really test the RC outside of just running a file over the unsharpened parts of the blade and if it’s differentially treated that won’t really tell me too much. The tang is for sure a major concern for me, the handle looks awfully skinny and it’d be the easiest spot to skimp out, if I end up damaging it bad enough I’ll pull the handle off to get eyes on the tang for sure. |
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Nov 9, 2023 20:03:50 GMT
If you have any strong magnets you can estimate the tangs dimensions.
Checking hardness is difficult, unless you have something of known hardness, like tools or other blades. Looking at the Haller Urs Velnut swords, they declare anything between 48-60HRC, I think they are probably hardened somewhat, low to mid 40s. You can feel it when using an abrasive like a diamond stone, if the steel is softer it will feel like you are grinding soft metal like copper. Very sticky and it bulks up the stone fast, while on harder steel you really have to work for the diamonds to bite in.
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rschuch
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Post by rschuch on Nov 9, 2023 20:07:11 GMT
Definitely let us what you discover! It's peened, but I have no idea what the tang looks like and I'm curious as to the RC rating and metal structure. And I agree, better a bit soft than too brittle, which is where most blades fail snapping at the tang. If you don't try to chop down any trees I think it shouldn't bend just because the steel is so thick. yeah I almost want to snap it to see the grain lol. With how thick it is I’ll probably end up with a metal walking stick if I decide to go after the trees. Unfortunately I don’t have anyway to really test the RC outside of just running a file over the unsharpened parts of the blade and if it’s differentially treated that won’t really tell me too much. The tang is for sure a major concern for me, the handle looks awfully skinny and it’d be the easiest spot to skimp out, if I end up damaging it bad enough I’ll pull the handle off to get eyes on the tang for sure. Ha! I sincerely doubt it's differentially treated, it's not a katana...and the large ricasso where you can half sword it should be a nice place to run a file. I've seen the rough grain on some snapped tangs that weren't heat treated properly. Again, if it's a soft heat treat, that shouldn't be an issue and when you watch the cutting demo there's very little flex, which is impressive for such a long blade! Distal WHAT?!? Really depends on what you want it for, but even though it's not expensive, it ain't chicken feed either... I wouldn't destroy it for kicks unless it was given to me as a test sample. Even then I wonder which would go out first, the tang or my sciatic nerve or my shoulders. I'm betting the latter.... |
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rschuch
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Sharp blades are good to have, if Shire-folk go walking, east, south, far away into dark and danger.
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Post by rschuch on Nov 9, 2023 20:12:40 GMT
If you have any strong magnets you can estimate the tangs dimensions. Checking hardness is difficult, unless you have something of known hardness, like tools or other blades. Looking at the Haller Urs Velnut swords, they declare anything between 48-60HRC, I think they are probably hardened somewhat, low to mid 40s. You can feel it when using an abrasive like a diamond stone, if the steel is softer it will feel like you are grinding soft metal like copper. Very sticky and it bulks up the stone fast, while on harder steel you really have to work for the diamonds to bite in. I can tell just using an Accusharp to touch up an edge. You really have to work to touch up decent steel, but drag it down a Deepeeka EN45 blade once or twice and there are shavings everywhere. Not a precise measurement by any means, but definitely an indicator. |
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Nov 9, 2023 21:00:22 GMT
I used to have the Urs Velunt one. My advice is skip it...
It had quite substantial tang and was epoxied with huge amount. As I customized it years ago, and sold it after redoing the handle just to get rid of it.
I would recommend getting the Hanwei Claymore as in my opinion it would be far better sword. You can see comparison in pic below. Unfortunately I sold mine years ago and it has bumped bit up in price.
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Nov 9, 2023 21:07:19 GMT
I used to have the Urs Velunt one. My advice is skip it...
It had quite substantial tang and was epoxied with huge amount. As I customized it years ago, and sold it after redoing the handle just to get rid of it.
I would recommend getting the Hanwei Claymore as in my opinion it would be far better sword. You can see comparison in pic below. Unfortunately I sold mine years ago and it has bumped bit up in price.
What's the 3rd sword in the picture? I know the sword, but who made this version?
I had a feeling about the Urs stuff, it's all quite heavy and the finish on the grip looks badly done on many pics. Thanks for the warning. What was so bad about this specific example?
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Nov 9, 2023 21:11:19 GMT
That is the old version of Windlass Royal Armouries twohander (I think it was called English longsword or something like that). I didn't like the original blue leather grip on it, felt bit uncomfortable.
I was dreaming about getting the one in new Royal Armouries line but after seeing all negative reviews I think it has been good I cannot afford to buy swords... that one seems to be a letdown and this old one used to be c.300€ and a nice sword even though bit wider and lot thinner than original.
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Nov 9, 2023 21:16:20 GMT
That is the old version of Windlass Royal Armouries twohander (I think it was called English longsword or something like that). I didn't like the original blue leather grip on it, felt bit uncomfortable. I was dreaming about getting the one in new Royal Armouries line but after seeing all negative reviews I think it has been good I cannot afford to buy swords... that one seems to be a letdown and this old one used to be c.300€ and a nice sword even though bit wider and lot thinner than original. Yeah, 300€ is where the new one belongs. To be honest yours looks nicer than the pictures of the new version I have seen so far. Shame..
If you didn't see I edited my last post to ask what you don't like about the Urs sword.
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Nov 9, 2023 21:19:40 GMT
I checked my files and it seems I haven't saved any data on it which for me is super rare... I am not really qualified to judge much as I dont practice any European sword arts (nor Japanese ones after small dabbling) but I remember it was like a heavy crowbar, weighed more than advertised. I used to own it maybe 6-7 years ago. I must have been very disappointed in it as I didn't record the stats. The grip was very uncomfortable and the wire on it poorly done. I remember removing those and doing my own thread wrap on it.
I tried to do lots and lots of grinding on the blade trying to reduce the weight but I felt it was too bulky in pretty much everywhere, and didn't want to spend time on it. So it was a bad buy that I wanted to get rid of...
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Nov 9, 2023 21:32:18 GMT
I just remembered where I have seen the SCZO/Urs Velnut swords before: Some Ronin Katana Euro swords look quite similar too! Copies over copies, man....
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Post by cheb on Nov 9, 2023 22:49:39 GMT
I used to have the Urs Velunt one. My advice is skip it...
It had quite substantial tang and was epoxied with huge amount. As I customized it years ago, and sold it after redoing the handle just to get rid of it.
I would recommend getting the Hanwei Claymore as in my opinion it would be far better sword. You can see comparison in pic below. Unfortunately I sold mine years ago and it has bumped bit up in price.
I actually had my eye on the hanwei claymore but unfortunately 280-300 with 50-100 dollars shipping is out of my price range at the moment, I might pick one up a little later down the line though. Very interesting though, I’m glad someone came in with information on the tang, thank you. |
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