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Post by aknoodles on Oct 28, 2023 21:02:51 GMT
First post here on sbg, and I’m fairly positive this is the correct place for this question. I recently made a sword blade blank on my CNC mill and now I’m on to the finishing touches. I would like to apply some sort of patina that would put pitting in the blade along the entire length. An example of what I am going for as far as looks would be the Ringwraith swords from the lord of the rings films. I want that heavy aged look as the sword comes from my own novels and is quite old. Not really sure what etchant or etching process to use to accomplish this look. Thanks for any help!
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Oct 29, 2023 2:59:23 GMT
Welcome to the forum! I remember various talks on this. Try some searching, you'll find a ton of references. I even remember one guy had a buried for a year project.
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Post by mrstabby on Oct 29, 2023 6:48:25 GMT
There are super rusting agent mixtures (salt, weak acid and H2O2, though you'd need to look up the exact recipe) which can produce the rust that normally takes months in hours, might be what you are looking for. But if you want pitting, you need to apply it very unevenly because these solutions make a uniform rust foundation for blueing by cooking in water. You could use hydrochloric acid and eat some deeper holes and apply the rusting agent after. A drop of HCl should eat nice pits in a short time and it should be controllable by drop size and acid concentration. I am not gonna tell you be safe, wear ppe, should be self explanatory.
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Post by aknoodles on Oct 29, 2023 13:02:05 GMT
Thanks for the responses!! I believe that’s enough for me to go off of. May try a spray bottle application to practice some random pitting. I’ll try to post a picture when the entire project is complete. I really appreciate it!
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Post by larason2 on Oct 29, 2023 15:16:20 GMT
Personally I'd try the burying. May take some time, but no harsh chemicals and you get a very authentic effect. You can also just leave it somewhere (plastic bucket?) sealed in a small puddle with an uneven bit of water sprayed on it.
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Post by crazyjons on Oct 29, 2023 15:21:34 GMT
You might want to test your Technique with some random steel scrap first
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Post by mrstabby on Oct 29, 2023 15:28:59 GMT
Thanks for the responses!! I believe that’s enough for me to go off of. May try a spray bottle application to practice some random pitting. I’ll try to post a picture when the entire project is complete. I really appreciate it! Unless I understood wrong :
Be very, very careful with spraying acid. You should at least wear an FFP2/N95 mask, goggles and a spray visor. Even the weak organic acids (acetic, citric) can do immense damage to lungs and eyes when they are in mist form. What you could try is brushing on very concentrated acid and spraying on clean water. The acid will get less concentrated where the droplets hit. Might even look interesting because the weathering would be inverse to what you get when spraying the acid.
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Post by larason2 on Oct 29, 2023 23:40:41 GMT
You really don't have to try very hard to rust carbon steel! For instance, rubbing a lemon, grapefruit or orange on the blade then spraying with water would probably do the trick in a day or so. Stay safe!
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Oct 29, 2023 23:53:01 GMT
One more thing. Do a number of tests, small areas, and see what works for you. Id also do it on junk steel.
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Ouroboros
Member
Imperial, Mysterious In Amorous Array
Posts: 570
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Post by Ouroboros on Oct 30, 2023 4:14:47 GMT
If I were using an acid ... or something....i might consider using a medium such as clay kitty litter and applying soaked litter in small areas in such a way that the individual pebbles allow for a semi random looking distribution like marbling. You would have pebble-like texturing to the pitting where the litter might hold more acid in contact with the material. Ive had good results with copper, brass and bronze patination with Dr Peaches Unsanitary Leavings and have noticed a texturing with clay litter that is hard to replicate with other carriers. Test on trash steel
On another thought, if you were looking for a spiderwebbing type of effect, one might consider applying some type of resist and acid etching areas to your desired appearance. Many here have electro-thaumatergical experience or are seers enough of alchemy to provide details on battery etching or acid etching designs.
Safety first, mind. One must be carefull of exposure to the wrong thing the wrong way. Acid in atomized droplets being something you should mind. Fumes being another. Guard yourself with safety gear aplenty.
Keep us posted, we all secretly gush over projects.
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Post by mrstabby on Oct 30, 2023 7:23:30 GMT
If I were using an acid ... or something....i might consider using a medium such as clay kitty litter and applying soaked litter in small areas in such a way that the individual pebbles allow for a semi random looking distribution like marbling. You would have pebble-like texturing to the pitting where the litter might hold more acid in contact with the material. Ive had good results with copper, brass and bronze patination with Dr Peaches Unsanitary Leavings and have noticed a texturing with clay litter that is hard to replicate with other carriers. Test on trash steel On another thought, if you were looking for a spiderwebbing type of effect, one might consider applying some type of resist and acid etching areas to your desired appearance. Many here have electro-thaumatergical experience or are seers enough of alchemy to provide details on battery etching or acid etching designs. Safety first, mind. One must be carefull of exposure to the wrong thing the wrong way. Acid in atomized droplets being something you should mind. Fumes being another. Guard yourself with safety gear aplenty. Keep us posted, we all secretly gush over projects. Cat litter wouldnt work if it's clay based, would react off all the acid instantly. Sawdust might work, lignin takes more work to break than iron.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Oct 30, 2023 13:22:39 GMT
You know the 'signature' finish of Zombie Tools weapons? They do that with ferric chloride and aluminum dust. Crazy dangerous, but a great end result.
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Post by mrstabby on Oct 30, 2023 13:59:20 GMT
Zombie Tools do show the process on youtube. It's just as dangerous as any other process using harsh chemicals. I don't care for the look personally. The fast acting rust solution probably is the least dangerous, but it normally should not cause pitting. You might be able to crate pitting by splattering the liquid on via a brush.
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Post by freq on Nov 6, 2023 3:10:34 GMT
for straight rust use bleach, instant rust, for pitting acid etch or salt water etchant
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Post by zackerty on Nov 28, 2023 4:07:02 GMT
Gently does it... Tomato sauce ( ketchup ) and time is all you need.
I fill a tin or plastic Tupperware type container with the sauce, and place the blade only inside for a week.
( A sword might need to be just costed with sauce one side at a time, and left horizontally on a shelf or table somewhere where no one will knock it. )
Remove the blade and wash off the muck with soapy water.
Dry it with a clean rag, but do not rub too hard, and see if you like the look. Carry on repeating the coating process for a day at a time, till you are happy.
The rinse is needed to expose fresh steel surface. If you see small rust bits, no worries, as the next soak in sauce will remove it.
Now, lie the blade horizontally and pour sauce onto the steel and rub in random directions with your finger, so that the sauce is uneven in texture and depth. Leave for a day at a time, and rinse as before.
When you like the overall "pattern", use a light oil and a clean cloth and cost the blade to protect it from any more rust forming.
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Post by hawthorn on Jan 26, 2024 0:12:40 GMT
Spit on it, a lot, like every time you walk by it. I did this with a couple junk blades and it made them look as bad as you want. It resulted in the best corrosion depth and pattern. I eat a ton of salt so that probably helped come to think of it.
No, I'm not trolling.
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