|
Post by cptraph on Oct 21, 2023 9:14:46 GMT
The problem is even a custom smith can't give you what you want without you knowing the exact measurements you want bveforehand.You can't just say "I want a balanced sword" because it means different things to different people. At that size it's especially difficult because small changes have big effects (like the width change for the A&A). Well I basically want these to be the specs Overall Length 58 1/2" Blade Length 45 1/8" Weight 4 lbs 13.8 oz Width 46.2 mm (although I might want the blade to be 50mm wide if there are any potential benefits to that) Blade Material: possibly 6150 steel Thickness 8.4 mm - 4 mm Pommel Peened P.O.B. 4 7/8" Grip Length 9 3/4" Guard: 11-3/8" wide Distal Taper: 11/32" thick at guard, 11/64" at tip And I might want the grip to be black, made from a material that is comfortable to hold with or without gloves and I want the basis to be that of the Royal Armouries 15th Century Two Handed Sword but made to a higher quality and have some other potential changes based off of what could make the sword better like maybe the blade a bit more rigid but not too much more rigid
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Oct 21, 2023 15:05:51 GMT
Almost 5 lbs is a very heavy sword, in my opinion. Some people like swords that heavy, but if you're cutting a lot with it as a beginner, your arm is going to get tired. My personal choice for most swords is closer to 2 lbs. If I wanted to cut a lot with a 5 pounder, I'd start cutting with lighter blades and work my way up. Don't forget the rotator cuff exercises so you don't hurt yourself!
For a lot of beginners, the recommendations are buy a couple of cheap swords (~$2-300) similar to what you want and try them out, especially of you have a lot of budget. Get one that's 5 lbs, so you can see what it feels like. Once you've lived with a few swords for a while, then you get an idea of what you really want. Then you're not going to spend thousands on a custom blade you end up not liking. Personally if I had a $5000 custom forged blade, I wouldn't cut with it. The risk is too high, and you can get $300 cutters that are beasts. I also wouldn't cut with an Albion. They're just too nice! I'd also be really upset if I broke one.
Albions are gorgeous, but they are limited by the fact they are made by stock removal. That makes them very perfect, but not very historical. A smith starts with a different volume of metal every time, and since metal flakes off as a result of forging, the swords are going to be different every time. If you used a time machine and asked the smith who made the sword you like to make an identical sword, it would be slightly different length, width, thickness, etc. every time. This is seen as a plus, it makes the blade more human. So getting hung up on precise numbers doesn't make sense, the key is to find a blade you like. As mentioned above, there's also always lemons. It's actually not that easy to heat treat properly and consistently. Therefore, if a blade survives a cutting test, then it's a cutter!
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Oct 21, 2023 16:50:56 GMT
I never thought of this, I was thinking cptraph would have held a similar sword already. If not, very true, go cheap. Unless you are one of the people wo can spend 2k without thinking about it, for a custom that size 5k (maybe more for a complete customthat size), and the customs will also have long waiting periods. In the years for more famous sword makers, which you are looking for, right? Deviation from the supplied measurements is also something you have to count on. An inch, a few ounces.
|
|
|
Post by cptraph on Oct 22, 2023 8:11:51 GMT
Okay but I just want to ask in a purely what if scenario if I was to commission a person to make this higher quality variant of the Royal Armouries 15th Century Two Handed Sword what type of carbon steel should it be made of? I just noticed a post that 6150 might not be as rigid as 1080 so I want to ask should it still be made of 1080? Or a different type of steel? I'm just curious if I decide to commission a sword maker
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Oct 22, 2023 9:38:37 GMT
It's all about your needs. Are you afraid of bending the sword with a bad hit or hard target? Go for 6150. Are you willing to give up some toughness (might chip and bends easier) for a stiffer blade? Go 1080. I am not even sure how much stiffer the 1080 would be, it should on paper, but there are more things to consider, like heat treatment and blade geometry. The A&A is less stiff because it is thinner and wider, but how stiff you want your blade, only you know. Especially since you want it to cut, a very stiff blade of this length, like the RA version, is pretty hard to get to be a good cutter, it shreds through due to tip speed more than it cuts. Around 15 minutes he begins talking about it.
While the flatter A&A would be better, it is less stiff.
You can see it flex at 2:48. Is this enough for you not to want it this or the other way? You decide.
|
|
|
Post by cptraph on Oct 22, 2023 11:38:59 GMT
It's all about your needs. Are you afraid of bending the sword with a bad hit or hard target? Go for 6150. Are you willing to give up some toughness (might chip and bends easier) for a stiffer blade? Go 1080. I am not even sure how much stiffer the 1080 would be, it should on paper, but there are more things to consider, like heat treatment and blade geometry. The A&A is less stiff because it is thinner and wider, but how stiff you want your blade, only you know. Especially since you want it to cut, a very stiff blade of this length, like the RA version, is pretty hard to get to be a good cutter, it shreds through due to tip speed more than it cuts. Around 15 minutes he begins talking about it. While the flatter A&A would be better, it is less stiff. You can see it flex at 2:48. Is this enough for you not to want it this or the other way? You decide. Okay well I did watch the parts you suggested but I do want to ask how good at thrusting do you think the Arms And Armor version might still be decent at thrusting? because if that's the case then I might still want to consider choosing that sword but I will say that if I do consider the Royal Armouries sword maybe I might keep the same flexibility so as to not compromise cutting
|
|
|
Post by cptraph on Oct 22, 2023 12:05:11 GMT
It's all about your needs. Are you afraid of bending the sword with a bad hit or hard target? Go for 6150. Are you willing to give up some toughness (might chip and bends easier) for a stiffer blade? Go 1080. I am not even sure how much stiffer the 1080 would be, it should on paper, but there are more things to consider, like heat treatment and blade geometry. The A&A is less stiff because it is thinner and wider, but how stiff you want your blade, only you know. Especially since you want it to cut, a very stiff blade of this length, like the RA version, is pretty hard to get to be a good cutter, it shreds through due to tip speed more than it cuts. Around 15 minutes he begins talking about it. While the flatter A&A would be better, it is less stiff. You can see it flex at 2:48. Is this enough for you not to want it this or the other way? You decide. Okay well I did watch the parts you suggested but I do want to ask how good at thrusting do you think the Arms And Armor version might still be decent at thrusting? because if that's the case then I might still want to consider choosing that sword but I will say that if I do consider the Royal Armouries sword maybe I might keep the same flexibility so as to not compromise cutting but Kane did say that the rigidity helped stabilize the cut of the blade could you explain that to me
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Oct 22, 2023 12:20:27 GMT
Again, it depends on your usage. Will it skewer unarmored or in light clothing wrapped water bottles? Sure, doesn't take that much, even the Hanwei Practical Tai-Chi Jian with its semirigid blade can. As I said, everything is a trade-off. 1:41
A&A better cutter, RA better armor penetrator, what are you going to do more? There is also Windlass' Sword of Roven, a bit shorter, much lighter and around 300$ but same ballpark.
About the rigidity and cuts: If the blade is very flexible it will flex when it hits the target, steering your cut and making it harder for you to make a straight cut. The rigid blade keeps its form more, so it won't steer your cut as much. The steering and flexing also bleeds off energy from your cut, so it won't be as effective. On the other hand, the flatter, more flexible blade will have better edge geometry and lower friction when cutting, it's about balancing factors. Too flexible feels like you are cutting with a wet noodle, more rigid means thicker blade means you feel more resistance in the cut. And the more towards a square the cross section it gets, the bigger the edge angle will get (means it will, in essence, be less sharp) and also add to resistance when cutting.
|
|
|
Post by cptraph on Oct 24, 2023 0:18:57 GMT
I want to ask could it be beneficial for a sword like the Royal Armouries 15th Century Two Handed Sword to be made of a 1070/1075 carbon steel I have heard that it might be good at having a balance between both durability and edge retention with a bit more of an emphasis on edge retention I'm just asking out of curiosity
|
|
AndiTheBarvarian
Member
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 9,847
Member is Online
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 24, 2023 0:46:05 GMT
Importance for a sword: Heat treatment: 50 % Blade specifications: 49 % Steel type: 1 %
The only thing the steel type is really relevant for is the experience of the heat treatment doing person with that steel.
|
|
|
Post by Lionhardt on Oct 24, 2023 5:15:53 GMT
I feel like this got over-complicated. In the original post, he said nothing about it having to be exact to an original. Just a custom sword to Albion quality. So the answer could have been really simple. Several smiths can and will do this. 1. Valiant Armory 2. Sterling Armory 3. Incarius Craft 4. Art of Swordmaking (Maciej Kopciuch)
All of those should be able to make you what you are looking for. Valiant and Sterling being the cheapest probably, at around $1,000-1500. And the other two being a bit more than that. I don't think the answer needed to be any more complicated than that.
|
|
Alan Schiff
Registered
Manufacturers and Vendors
Posts: 464
|
Post by Alan Schiff on Oct 31, 2023 19:49:46 GMT
I agree with Lionhardt here, the discussion got much more complicated than necessary. If you're ordering a custom from a reliable smith, let them worry about what steel would be best for that application. As Andi said, it actually makes little real difference in the end. I will also say that 1070, 1075, and 1080 are basically the same steel, and the tolerances overlap.
There are a number of custom smiths that might be able to craft a recreation of the Royal Armouries sword, perhaps even more accurate to the original. The size of the sword could potentially be an issue, as not every smith has the equipment to heat treat a blade that long. Tod of Tod's Workshop would probably be my first choice, personally. His work is top notch, he has access to the Royal Armouries, and I'm pretty sure has done replicas of ones from there before. The ones Lionhardt mentioned are also good, although I would suggest reading further into communication issues Incarius has had recently. I would also suggest A&A (they also do customs), Mateusz Sulowski, and Damian Sulowski.
Hope that helps, Alan
|
|
|
Post by durinnmcfurren on Nov 5, 2023 18:09:04 GMT
I want to ask is there a company that makes swords to the quality of Albion but also makes custom swords because I do have a bit of a desire to see if there is someone who can make a sword that is similar in design to the Royal Armouries 15th Century Two Handed Sword but to the quality of Albion's swords since I have heard Royal Armouries has a bad reputation when it comes to quality and I'm not worrying about budget and I do want this sword to be a functional sword with a cutting edge Companies, no.
Individual swordsmiths, yes. You would need to get measurements and such, of course. And as someone else said, museums aren't always the best for such things.
But there's good news! Sometimes, the sword you want to recreate has been studied in a published paper that gives dimensions. Sometimes it's also possible to contact the museum and ask if a curator can give better measurements.
These are really solvable issues. As to custom smiths, at the cheaper end you could go with Purna Darnal of GGK (he does excellent work), Jarnskeggr (Björn Gylffason), Emiliano Carillo. And many others. There's a whole list here somewhere!
|
|
|
Post by cptraph on Nov 27, 2023 3:50:09 GMT
I feel like this got over-complicated. In the original post, he said nothing about it having to be exact to an original. Just a custom sword to Albion quality. So the answer could have been really simple. Several smiths can and will do this. 1. Valiant Armory 2. Sterling Armory 3. Incarius Craft 4. Art of Swordmaking (Maciej Kopciuch) All of those should be able to make you what you are looking for. Valiant and Sterling being the cheapest probably, at around $1,000-1500. And the other two being a bit more than that. I don't think the answer needed to be any more complicated than that. Out of curiosity could those individual sword makers potentially make a sword that is similar to the Wallace Collection A474 sword as I've heard that apparently Arms And Arm Armor 15th Century Two Handed Sword has the design flaw of of having too thin of a blade and being lighter than that of the of the sword it's based off of and this causes it to sag when held in a certain way could these sword makers potentially make a functional sword that is more faithful to that of the Wallace Collection sword with the same weight and thickness as the original?
|
|