|
Post by mrstabby on Aug 25, 2023 16:59:07 GMT
I have been wondering, what is being used to tightly fit a grip to a tang. I have seen people using 2K-Epoxy glue, superglue etc. but what do professionals use? In my Windlass swords, there is a grey filler when the void is too big, do you know what it is? It does not feel like 2K-Epoxy glue, it feels almost like concrete. I have used 2K-Epoxy putty to fill some holes and it dries just like this. Is it an epoxy putty?
But is it better to have something that is a bit more flexible like the 2K glue or would something hard be better? Also the putty won't stick to the metal as much as the glue, so you will still be able to disassemble the sword. I have done this on one sword to test it and it went well, still wondering what is better.
I ask because I plan to re-glue the grip of my Windlass Italian Bastardsword.
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Aug 25, 2023 18:02:23 GMT
There's a long list of products that are used for this purpose, and knife/sword makers commonly make their own. There was a thread on this in the bladesmith's forum, with tons of different recipes, but I'm having trouble locating it at the moment.
If there isn't or not supposed to be a lot of space between the tang and the wood, the best is epoxy. Usually hand and a half swords were put through the wood hot and then peened, as I recall. There shouldn't be much space between the tang and the wood, therefore. If you don't want to or can't redo the peen, then still maybe the best would be epoxy with the handle where it's supposed to go, and inserting spacers or welding the peen a bit tighter. There's tons of ways to go about this though, but using a filler wouldn't be my recommendation.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Aug 25, 2023 18:05:27 GMT
My thinking is better something flexible than something brittle, but the really hard filling material inside the Windlass swords threw me off a bit.
It looks like the hole in the wood is prebored and they fill it out to fit the more variable tang dimensions. It's not much space to fill maybe 5ml worth of glue.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 25, 2023 18:42:47 GMT
I bought a special 2K epoxy called "liquid iron" which is grey, not really like steel, but better looking in hilt gaps. Not much experience till now, somehow a bit different than normal epoxy but I can't say much about how.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Aug 25, 2023 18:51:39 GMT
Have 2 metal strengened 2K epoxies as well, but I don't like them as much as the normal 2K epoxy for small repairs because they (at least mine) are much thicker than the normal and don't flow as nicely.
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Aug 25, 2023 22:16:51 GMT
If there's a gap, then you could use something like 2k epoxy to fill it. I've used JB weld extensively. If it's thick though, and there's not much space to insert it, you might be better off with cyanoacrylate based methods. They won't fill the gap, but you can drip them into narrow holes. I wouldn't worry if an epoxy based solution isn't flexible, you usually want your hilt pretty stable, and the steel can do the flexing.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Sept 19, 2023 13:41:30 GMT
Sorry for acting as necromancer, but...
Other project with bigger spacing between grip and blade. The Gap is 15mm long, 3mm wide and around 15mm deep. I got myself a lifetime supply of ash wood for grips and stuff recently. Would it be better to: Make a sliver of ash that barely fits the gap and hammer it in Fill the gap with a bit of glue and then hammer in the wood Or only use glue?
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Sept 19, 2023 13:55:56 GMT
Shims are always good, and ash is a good wood to do it. I vote put the glue in, then the shim.
|
|
LeMal
Member
Posts: 1,091
Member is Online
|
Post by LeMal on Sept 19, 2023 15:01:17 GMT
I've used JB Weld extensively--and going back decades, even constructed building up in layers entire handles out of that that are incredible.
That said, you're not wrong that having some flexibility/shock absorption can be awesome too. [Even if it annoys the "snobs" that there sure won't be a "ring." :p ] I've used historically plausible pitch, both botanical and asphaltum based, and my easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy go-to has become good hot-melt adhesive. Fills gaps perfectly, and any squeeze-out or run-over is cut off easily with a utility knife.
|
|