pgandy
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Post by pgandy on May 22, 2023 14:42:57 GMT
It looks like you will be able to have your Albion repaired reasonably enough. Past that point I don’t fully understand what you want. For one, I don’t understand how you use “cheap”. Does cheap = low quality or inexpensive?
Also, while you are at it, perhaps tell Albion what edge you want or how you intend to use that sword since they will have the sword. And have them advice. A custom edge shouldn’t add much to their repair price, if any.
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2023 14:49:34 GMT
MrStabby, please PM me.
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Post by Lord Newport on May 23, 2023 13:58:17 GMT
So good news. Albion reached out to me, and let me know that they can provide that "morning after pill" following the buggering of my Crecy for $75-$150. But now I am left with a bit of a delema. Should I just leave everything "factory" sharp...or buy something cheap to just practice with. I know that some might say to just buy a machete...but I have one, and it isn't convex. And buying something cheap...apart from practice...will leave me with something cheap in the closet. I guess this is just first world problems Don't forget to calculate shipping costs into your deliberations...
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on May 23, 2023 16:19:52 GMT
I forgot about shipping and that will be x2 plus repair. I don’t understand your obsession with a convex edge. I’m one of those that will say for an expensive cutter go machete. One of which you already have but don’t seem to like. Is one enough? Most Latin machetes are bit thin for a convex edge and the traditional way to sharpen them is with a file which should give you a V edge. I sharpen mine on a Work Sharp KO which will give a convex. However, the sweet spot on some is 1.5 mm, leaving .75 mm/side, not much to show a convex. CS offers machetes at about 2.8 mm thick and will take a convex edge better. There are many good machetes out there. As far as cutting, some of my best cuts have been with machetes.
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Post by squirrel502 on May 23, 2023 18:09:50 GMT
Its not that I am obsessed with a convex edge...but rather, the Crecy came factory with one. And I completely screwed that up with my previous decision. Ultimately, I am going to send the sword back to Albion in hopes of having it brought back to some resemblance of its original state. If I can get them to put a decent edge on it at the same time...all the better. Likewise, if they end up putting on a more traditional edge...again, my hope is that it comes back with at least clean lines and an even bevel.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on May 23, 2023 19:48:36 GMT
Sorry, I misinterpreted from your statement “but I have one, and it isn't convex”, referring to your machete. Good luck with your Albion.
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Post by howler on May 23, 2023 20:08:38 GMT
I think Marbles machete have convex edges.
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Post by johntaylor879 on Jun 1, 2023 12:06:39 GMT
As an armourer of some 53 years, who has been sharpening knives and tools for some 60 years, I suggest that yo have to decide which is most important: looks or cutting ability. The thing is that the best slicing edge has micro-teeth matching the grit of the sharpening medium, and the teeth should be perpendicular to the blade, not flat along it. Teeth that are too fine may be inclined to skate along the material being cut, rather than digging in and cutting deeper. Extremely fine teeth, say 10000 grit, may be good for shaving but not so good for penetration. In days of yore, soldiers carried a simple puck stone to sharpen their blades because they wanted their blades to cut, not be admired. Resting the blade on your lap and stroking with the puck allows you to maintain the appleseed shape, and allows you to sharpen away from, or along, the sharp edge to avoid cutting your fingers. As in all sharpening, you need to do an equal number of strokes to both sides of the edge until a wire rises naturally, which you can then remove by pulling the edge through a piece of wood, or by stropping… I use a speed-controlled belt-sander held upside-down in my workbench to reprofile badly damaged blades because I can draw the full length along it using both hands for control. Naturally the belt travels away from you and the edge faces away too, otherwise you risk cutting into the belt. Hand-held belt sanders also run cool because they are relatively slow moving. Once I have the correct profile I move onto large diamond plates lubricated with mild soap detergent solution, as it floats away particles and is very quick, even for the hardest steels. As for edge angle, the centre of my thumb is my best guide for blades up to about 2” wide, with the side of my thumb just touching the stone lightly. Adjust as necessary for your own situation… Finally I use whet stones soaked in water or weak detergent to give my final edge (optional). My whet stones have a rubber base that flexes just enough to take up irregularities in my technique… For polishing I use wet or dry papers used wet in a sanding block, going ever finer until I get my final look.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 1, 2023 14:25:11 GMT
Thanks for your input. I’ve found on my machetes when stopping with a course belt work fine if not better and now do so although the traditional system is with a file. It’s not uncommon to see a man walking around with both. I've used a stone. As for my razor, I strop in order to get the smoothest edge possible. As for my kukris, I use ceramic rods mostly as they work well on the reverse curves. But depending, a sanding belt or sandpaper. As for my swords, I’m guilty of whatever means to get that shiny, smooth convex edge that blends in with the rest of the blade. Thanks for the puck information. That’s the first I’ve heard of that. The Brits constantly complained about their sabres being dull due to the steel scabbards. The expression was "sharp today, dull by tomorrow". I’m also aware of soldiers doing things off the record such as me using Hoppes #9 instead of the GI bore cleaner. This was back in the days of corrosive ammo. Then I discovered my Marine buddy also did the same.
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Jun 1, 2023 15:10:46 GMT
Coarse edges are better at a draw cut, polished ones better at push cuts. Low grit finishes like on a scythe at 180-240 grit are very good at draw cutting, but dull rather quickly. Edge retention tests for knives show that there is almopst no difference in edge retention between a 600 grit and an 8000grit finish, but the really low ones do dull faster (or better: lose their teeth). Best of two worlds is polishing the edge and then go over it once with a low grit to give it some teeth. Yep, ceramic rods are great for curved blades, I have forund they clog quickly though and I use a white eraser (without added grinding compound) to rub off the metal dust. The one I like best I got from Ikea 20 years ago, never found one that was nearly as good for an end finish (1000-2000 grit). I have mostly gone to diamond now, but I have not seen a good high grit rod yet.
I have heard the thing about the british sabres, but don't most military sabres have metal scabbards? Were the british sabres scabbard different or do they all have this problem? I seem to remember that some sabres had a liner inside preventing the blade from making contact. A family member was curator for the "Schützenverein", more or less a reenactment thing with muzzleloaders, uniforms and swords, and he had like 50 sabres in one room of his house. I was allowed to looked at them a few times, but I was very young then, so I can't remember for sure.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 2, 2023 16:58:30 GMT
I do not consider myself an expert on sabres/scabbards. I know more about the British as they document everything. The Brits do not mention liners, but liners were used in steel scabbards in general by all countries. Because the Brits don’t specifically mention them it does not mean they didn’t use them. It is noted that their sabres dulled quickly but most documentation was about those used by troopers, officers had more leeway. From my understanding, and it’s strictly that, most issued scabbards had a liner, but this was two strips of wood that sandwiched the blade giving some stability. The cutting edge was not well protected. The best military scabbard I know of, and have, from the standpoint of edge retention is wood core, leather wrapped, with a skeleton steel outer covering. That would be too expensive to issue. It is well documented that the British complained about the noise, and edge retention of their sabres. More than once I’ve come across statements of the British longing for scabbards like the locals used that were of wood core leather for better edge retention. Governments tended to use steel scabbards for economy. I use a cleanser such as Ajax or Comet to clean the ceramic rods. WD-40 works also. As for rods, I have two sets. The older one is stored. The newer consists of two pairs, course and fine with two angles.
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Post by squirrel502 on Jun 12, 2023 12:39:24 GMT
So just a quick heads up. Sword was shipped back to Albion and returned in less then a week. Looks great, and they even sharpened it. While they said "paper cutting sharp"...it isnt. But it is a big improvement, given that I actually cut myself running my fingers down the blade. Total cost was $100 w/ shipping on their end...and $60 shipping on mine (damn extra insurance costs)
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Jun 12, 2023 12:50:20 GMT
So just a quick heads up. Sword was shipped back to Albion and returned in less then a week. Looks great, and they even sharpened it. While they said "paper cutting sharp"...it isnt. But it is a big improvement, given that I actually cut myself running my fingers down the blade. Total cost was $100 w/ shipping on their end...and $60 shipping on mine (damn extra insurance costs) I am interested, can you show pics of the edge?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 12, 2023 14:45:33 GMT
Thanks for the update.
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